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Mike,
If I understand brake master cylinders correctly, they are different if you run disc/drum compaired to disc/disc. When you change the rears to disc you might have to change master cylinder again. I am not positive on this. Someone with more brake setup knowlage might want to chime in on this. Terry |
Terry,
Right, if you go from a disc/drum to 4-way discs you will need a different M/C. Residual valves are not "normally" used unless the M/C is BELOW the calibers. I.E. Streetrods like '34 Fords, '40 Willy's and the likes. An adjustable proportioning valve like Wildwoods IS usually needed on the Cobras. DV |
Thanks DV. I thought so but I was not 100% positive.
Terry |
Mike,
One thing to check is to be sure your engine has enough vacuum to run the booster. If your engine does not create enough vacuum then you would need to run a seperate vacuum pump with a canister to feed the booster. Terry |
Crap, sounds like I ordered a master cylnder that I will won't be albe to use until I upgrade to rear disk's. Well I guess that's one less item I will have to purchase next year...
Thanks, Mike |
Following up on this thread, I phoned the company "hot rod heaven" today to cancel my Master cylnder order, but after speaking with Dave, I talked myself into purchasing the rear disk kit from him, this guy is pretty sharp.......Now I guess I have until the end of the month to clear a space in the garage for myself to live once my wife see's the credit card statement UGH.
Terry, the pictures you posted during your build are very helpful, I was not sure how to install the rear brake line. Thanks again everyone for your input, I'm pretty sure this will solve my breaking issue, however I did plan on this drastic change but I'm sure I will be glad I made the change. Mike |
Great! Glad to hear you are sorting things out. Please let us know if we can help in the future.
David :):):) |
Mike,
Just one more thing when your wife lets you out... I'm surprised no one mentioned it but, when you get ready to put your new M/C on check the pushrod is within 1/16 (+/-) of the internal M/C bell. Watch the inside cylinder when you put it on, shouldn't move...pedal should barely move forward and you will see the piston move. (The rod in the booster is adjustable.) Sounds like your well on your way! DV |
David, Are you jumping in to the "Help Save Classic Roadsters" cause? I think the association with the highly regarded Kirkhams would do us good. I am in need of a disc brake upgrade too. Currently very small discs in front with drums in the back, no booster. I don't know where to even start with this project but I have learned some useful facts following Mikes experience. I am interested in what this project would involve from start to finish so I can budget and plan for the future, either near or distant.
John |
I have a '92 CR. Changing the pivot point of the pedal sure helped my brakes. I have the 11" Granada rotors and GM calipers also. I remember several years ago, a thread about the pivot point change. DV, I think the info for the change came from you (including some pics showing measurements for the new holes etc).
Paul |
Thanks for the input, I'm still waffling about makeing that change but it sounds like the way to go. I decided to go with the wilwood setup, but I'm still waiting for parts. I'm afriade if I don't move my peddle I may still have the problem. I'm not sure what part to move; the top piviot point down 1 3/4 inches, or move the push rod attachment up? any input would be greatly appriciated.
Thanks, Mike |
Well it's happend again!!! for the third time I have been bent over. I thought I should post this information. Hot Rods USA, has filed bankrupcey after he hit my credit card for $1,200.00 after numerous messages I left on his answering machine I finally got a letter from him telling me to contact my credit company. So now I'm right back to the beginning, of sorting out my less than adiqite breaks.....O' my wife was sooooo pleased to find out I spent $1,200.00 and got nothing, after spending alot of time convinceing her it's money well spent :( Question: Is the 74-78 Mustang II power booster and master cylnder ok to use? I'm going to use 10" wilwood roters and dynalite four piston calipers on the front, and leave the drum setup on the rear for now.
any input would be helpful. |
I'm about to go the same route you are. I am buying the wildwood kit for the front and keep my current master for a while. then when/if I switch the rears to disc I will change the master but I see no reason why the current one can't handle it. And if not then I will upgrade the master too. Maybe to the vette one that sells for 70 bucks at napa. :)
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Gents,
If I may? The reason for different MC's is the bore size beteen front and rears bores in the M/C. The rear bore is usually bigger than the front bore to handle the rear discs. That's why a 4-way drum system will not work for drum/disc combination. Just thought you might like some insight to save some money. DV |
Quote:
Thanks, Darren |
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