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Header bolts
If you have installed CR headers you know how much fun they can be to get header bolts into them.. :LOL:
What did you guys do to install them? I have a couple that had to be cut to get them in but they keep coming loose so I want to change them to full length ones. |
OFM,
My headers were little trouble. I did not have to cut any bolts. 390fe with Sanderson headers. John |
O.F.M.,
They are a pain in the arse! But if you use 'flange nuts and bolts they will NOT come loose again. Most of the time you need to put them on after the body is on, a few times, and eddiers is one of them, you can put the pipes on before the body goes down. After body; I use a 10" extension with a swivel/socket and a 'stubby' (6") combo wrench. DV |
PS
Crap.....are you talking header bolts or sidepipe bolts? Headers: any good header bolt and put the headers on before putting motor in the frame?? DV |
Yes sir.. header to block bolts... unfortunately my headers are kind of funky and most header bolts you can't get a wrench on without a bit of cussing.. I wonder if I can send them back to Pete... NOT.....
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Like these.... http://www.stage8.com/ford.html |
Use of a "ball headed" allen wrench works great with those type bolts. You can even find them as a 'socket' type.http://i7.ebayimg.com/02/i/05/5f/c2/dd_2.JPG
DV |
thanks guys.. Ill get some..
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Before you go and buy socket head, take a look and see if you can even get close to go strait(or almost) into the bolt. Lot's of times there's going to be a tube or two that won't let you in.
FWIW, I've had the best luck with 12 point ARP's. There 3/8-16 bolts only use a 3/8" wrench. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku http://static.summitracing.com/globa...400-1201_m.jpg |
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Convincor,
Those look like what I have on mine. They were more of a challenge when I had my heat wrap on but since I had them ceramic coated are easy. I use the 12 pt socket which has the thinner wall - less interference. |
VECTOR1: "removed the allen head deals, they suck. put some rtv on the threads....."
I guess that why this forum is so usefull- different ideas, different ways.... DV Ps. "RTV" gets soft or melts at head temperatures. If You really don't want them to come loose use at least RED locktite which you can break loose later 'with' heat OR go with green Locktite! HiCobra---good point! |
sorry, might have been a little strong. i've been up over 30 hrs with prob 2 hrs sleep. i've never had prob with rtv melting though.
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I've always used silicone RTV in place of header gaskets as well as on the bolt threads- just the cheap, clear, GE from Home Depot. The advise came from one of the header manufactuers (Dynatech I believe) at the PRI show as well as my engine builder. I've never had a header leak or needed to retorque a bolt since following this advise. Vector1, your the first person I've ever heard of, outside of racing circles, that does it this way.
Scott |
I do use hi-temp silicone between header and sidepipes and it works great! Header bolts--if it works for ya, why not!
As far as the ball headed allen wrenches, I should have included that the short shaft sockets really do suck as you can't get them in at the 30 plus degree angle you need. However, the long shaft ball-allen wrenches do work just fine. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA200_.jpg DV |
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I have had good results from the ARP 12-poimt bolts.
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Arp also makes 12-point bolts drilled for safety wire. They work.
Bill Stradtner |
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