don't listen to the negative nellies and nay-sayers here. Do what you want, your way.

I had basic mechanical tools when I started my build. I ended up buying during the course of the build:

band saw
drill press
230v MIG welder
30" metal brake
tube flaring tool (brake lines)
tube benders brake lines)
riveting tool
solder guns

and probably more things I can't think of. You may not need all, but i did some customizing.

Of course in the end I will do want I want to, I'm Ricky F-ing Bobby. However, I make decision on facts so I'm seeking facts to guide my decision. If these guys built their cobra then I would like to know the facts of their personnel experience of why they don't think my $$ and time budgets will not get me to a completed kit (minus drive train and paint)?

If you didn't do any customizing would you have needed all of those tools?

How much was the total cost of your build and how long do you think it would have taken you if you would have bought the complete kit and not purchased in stages?

I'm going by memory, but my basic configuration and options from Hurricane is 9" solid axle, Wilwood big brake kit (front), windshield wipers.

I deleted from my kit the gauge set, dash switches, headlights, blinkers, taillights because I sourced them on my own.

So, again going by memory, rounding numbers:

Hurricane kit: $24,000
Craft Racing 351w/427, including:
water pump, alternator, march pulley set,
fuel pump, starter, bellhousing, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate ​$13,200
Tremec TKO600 $2600
Trigo 15" Hallibrand style wheels, adapters, and spinners $2500
Goodyear Billboard tires (4) $1600
Smiths 427 Cobra full electric instrument set from Nisonger $975
Kirkey vintage racing driver seat $550
LeMans fibeglass hardtop from Mr Bruce $800
FE style Expansion tank $350
...and many, many, MANY other items, large and small. Other things you'll need are ignition box and coil, battery, driveshaft, engine and trans mounts, omg it never ends...

I stopped adding items to my spreadsheet at about $55,000 ... and I havent even painted it yet. Add $6,000-$12,000 depending on color, options, quality, etc.

I used the bandsaw to cut and trim aluminum sheeting.

I used the welder to customize many things, including a hidden trailer receiver hitch, new lower engine mounts, relocated seat mount tabs, I swapped the stock mufflers with Classic Chambered Cobrapack 24" long 3" I.D. pipes, added 1" square tube faux supports in the engine bay (originality nod),

I fabricated and added my own glove box.

I used original style Lucas toggle switches, knobs, and ignition switch.

I didn't buy the kit in stages, i started with the kit, then bought the wheels/tires later, then later bought the transmission, then waited a while until I could by the engine, then got the drivetrain in, etc. etc etc. I just worked at my own pace, wasn't racing to get it finished, i wanted to build right, not fast. I had a lot of help and learned a lot along the way, learned how to weld, learned more about electronics than I wanted to, and I'm still learning.

hope that all helps. There are a LOT of guys in the Texas Cobra Club with all levels of knowledge and experience. even though I turned every single nut and bolt myself on my build, I had a lot of help and asked a million questions.

There is a Hurricane kit in the for sale section of this site for $28,500
level 1 kit $24,500 and around $12,000 upgrades including IRS


PhotoPost Classifieds - Hurricane HM2017 Kit For Sale - Powered by PhotoPost Classifieds

There ya go!! Excellent opportunity

The cheapest way, assuming that the prior builder did not screw something up significantly, is to buy an already started kit that someone couldn't finish. The seller will eat some percentage of the price to get rid of the car.

You can always go cheap on the engine now (one of the biggest costs outside of the kit) and replace it down the road with a better engine. 300 HP in one of these cars will get your attention in a hurry. While we like bragging about all of the HP some of our cars have, outside of a race situation most people on this site never use all of the HP their cars produce.

It's your car and your money, do what you want wth it. Just remember to factor in some additional time and expense due to parts shortages due to COVID related shutdowns in factories and shipping. It may take a little while for the industry to fully recover, so you might have to wait weeks and pay a little more for a part that takes 1 hour to install.

Jim

Guess I'm too late, it is sold and I think it changed to sold overnight!

However, not sure I would have been willing to pay 28K for the kit.

I can only speak to Unique, no experience with Hurricane or Shell Valley. The Weavers are of such value when any questions arise, but you've already seen that. I have had a Unique FIA for nearly 17 years, and it has been absolutely bulletproof. It's my opinion that an independent rear is a must have. A heavy live axle in a 90" wheelbase car is a very tough compromise, unless you mostly drag race. Unique's rear suspension is a very well thought out and effective design. It plants better than other Jag rear suspensions I've driven, while giving up no ride quality.

Best of luck with your decision. I'm in Savannah if it's convenient to drop down before you go to Texas.

I'm just starting to research a build and the number 1 company recommended to me was ERA then UNIQUE.

ERA is 12+ months delivery and I also heard they are not accepting new orders at this time.

Hmmmmmm, well that's half right I suppose.:cool:

I talked to Pete yesterday he said 14 months, my timeline is 24 months so it will work for me.

What half? I got a recommendation from Super Performance. If I wasn't buying one from him, this is who he recommended.

Send him a deposit tomorrow (it's fully refundable). ERA and Unique are not comparable. Not that a Unique is not a nice car, it's just not in the same league as a properly built ERA.:cool:

I wouldn't know first hand why they aren't comparable. The difference seems to be the 4" longer wheelbase or overall length? What am I not seeing?

That's understandable. A lot of us have been playing this stupid game for decades and we forget that most people can't see a difference between any two Cobras, from any two manufacturers, and would not be able to spot something like scuttle shake unless it poked them in the eye. For now, just take my word for it all and start your own learning process. You have time. Start with the earliest posting on Club Cobra and work your way forward to present time. You can speed read over the crap and dribble, but you'll soon catch on to the meat. You'll also get a feel for some of the members that have come and gone; some having died. Go to the ERA site: Era Replica Automobiles - Makers of the 427, 289FIA, and GT40 replicas and read every single page -- there's a ton of information there, and not just about ERAs. Along the way, you'll develop questions, like why you might want six pin hubs, and we'll be here to help you. But it takes time, you can't learn it all overnight and there's an even chance that you come out of it all with the realization that this isn't right for you. If that happens, Peter will give you your money back and you'll be no worse for wear.:cool:

Now I got a question for you just because you mentioned the 6 pin hubs. They are more expensive but what's the advantage of them instead of the cheaper 5 pin hubs?

Six pin hubs are a thing of beauty. They may be a bit stronger, they may be a bit lighter (about four lbs. per wheel), and they may occasionally be easier to mount a wheel on than five pins when the five pins are not true, but for the most part you buy six pin hubs because you know they are there and you get to appreciate them when you are working on the car. Five pin hubs look exactly like the six pin hubs from the outside, but five pins are driven by lug nuts that go on the pin drive adapter. Nobody but you will know they are six pin. Kind of like a side oiler. You can not see down the side of the FE block when looking down from up top, and you can't get under the car and look from down below. In spec'ing out your car, you will be faced with decisions as to what to include and what not to include. Before you can make an informed choice you need to understand all the pluses and minuses. For example, IMO putting a small block in a 427 car is a fatal mistake from the get-go, but people do it all the time. You just don't want to make that decision without a full understanding of the implications.:cool: Here's a pic of my six pins, which only I get to see (unless you're in my garage when I'm pulling the wheels off).;)

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../sierra004.JPG

Ok, thanks for that. Like I said I have contacted ERA, their car does come highly recommended. So that's who's I've decided to give all my available cash to. I got a rough estimate on total cost and time before I get the Kit.

I've purchased a big block 390FE and a Ford Top loader. The Engine will be rebuilt in the next 6 months. I've started, going to send that deposit very soon, and I have sold my Mustang ,because I was told I couldn't have this toy unless I got rid of the other. It's what it is.

... and it always costs more than you think it will.:cool: