Spider cracking on the trunk -- could be a PITA to fix. Have to see it to be sure.

The car very easily came out of second gear, maybe the shift boot? -- Most likely.

Engine is Southern Automotive any good? -- Like any of the long time engine builders around here, you'll get some that love them, some that claim they were screwed.

The turkey pans corners where the cables and fuel lines went through looked like it was done with a cutoff wheel and grinder is this normal of Southern? -- You can clean that up if it bugs you, or a new TP can be had for a couple of hundred bucks. Two piece removable ones are a bit more (and well worth it).

Turn signal was very touchy the wheel had to be in just the right spot to activate them. -- Ehhhhh, just use hand signals if someone is behind you.

Both valve covers leak oil no biggie. -- Fixable.


The 427 badges on the pass valve cover was worn off near the filler cap normal for 1800mi? -- Replaceable.


The pedals were loose, (the part you put your foot on was floppy) is this normal? -- I don't know the SPF pedals as well as I do ERA/KMS/CSX pedals, which have springs behind the pedal faces. If the SPF is similar, and the springs are missing, it will cause looseness.


Pipes needed a repaint but I think that’s kind of common maintenance on these? -- If they were powder coated then they wouldn't need paint, but again, that doesn't sound like a big deal.


The radiator tank had a small leak in the corner developing easy fix. -- Fixable.

Coolant gauge never went over 80? That was strange. -- It's probably broken. Whether it's mechanical or electrical, figure it will cost a couple of hundred bucks.

The car ran good no sign of overheating or anything. -- OK, but with a broken temperature gauge on the dash I would shoot the radiator hoses with an IR gun.

When you turn the fan switch on all the gauges surge and go right back, is this normal? -- No, but it's fixable.

Also the reverse speedo had a slight needle bounce normal? -- Not unusual, and the reverser on the speedo might have a zerk fitting on it, just like your tie rod. If so, grease it up.

Lastly it had several diff keys one for the glovebox another ignition another trunk. Normal? -- Ehhh, I wouldn't worry about that.

If the car runs well, after at least a 20 minute drive, and the engine's thermostatic fans are cycling normally, then the fact that you didn't shoot the hoses with a gun is probably not a big deal. 1800 miles on these cars isn't even broken in yet.

All the things listed are either normal or can be fixed and/or adjusted.

Oil and water temp gauges:
Realize the unit of measurement is in celcius so the temp you stated could be normal depending the type of weather and driving you did.

Speedo: fairly normal at low speed. Lube or less cable bend radius may resolve depending on severity.

Keys: bonnett and boot key, ignition key, locking gas cap key and glove box key....there's your potential key inventory.

You guys are fantastic thank you very much. I would have never thought of that gauge being C! Is that common with smiths? What causes the gauge jump issue?

Very, very, very common. The jump in the gauge issue (assuming they're electric gauges) is caused by either a grounding issue or the fact that Smiths gauges will sometimes require a 10v voltage regulator for its electric gauges and you don't have one on that car. Not a big deal and they cost about $30. Now, if those gauges are mechanical, like mine, then the surge can only be caused by elves and fairies that like to play pranks on new and prospective Cobra owners.:cool: