Hello from Greenville South Carolina
Saw my first Cobra back in 1967 at a Ford Dealer in Abington, Pennsylvania. It was sitting outside with a window sticker on the windshield. It was red and the sticker price was $10,000. I remember thinking that you could buy a house for that price. I've wanted one ever since and am now finally at a point in my life where I'm starting to look. Backdraft Racing and Superformance both look good to me. Also, I would like to find one with a top. I did see a few online with a fastback hardtop and really loved the look. Seems like you can only get these tops from the UK. No roller cars because I'm not handy with tools. Any tips would be appreciated. Seems like an excellent forum here and quite large!
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Now, with that said, can't help you with a 427SC test fit, but I do have an ERA 289 FIA I can teach you how to properly get in and out of (hint, you do not touch the windshield or windshield frame, not ever). I'll have it out for my annual New Years Day ride (since 1979) in the morning. :cool: Bill S. |
Welcome. And pay close attention to what Bill (MrMustang) says. He knows what he is talking about, especially when it comes to buying a Cobra.
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Bill, talk him into our "West Coast" it's now ready for sale ;) Ditto to Tommy's post Bill knows his stuff, Cheers Tom.
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I strongly encourage you to look at the 289 class cars. The engine in my Windsor based 427 always felt like it wanted to run at higher RPMs that was compatible with street driving, the result was that I typically drove in 3rd (sometimes 4th) to keep the RPMs up a little to keep the engine from feeling like it was bogged down. The 427 are bred for the track and thrive on high RPMs at WOT for sustained periods of time. The 289 engine is a much better match. And remember, it was the 289 cars that won most of the races and prizes.
From your technical skill set you don't want a new kit nor do you want a finished roller. Even the roller requires you to install the power train and that will take some familiarity with engines and transmissions after the fact, no matter who installs it. These cars don't have a 3 year / 36000 mile warranty. Look for a completed and sorted finished car. www.cobracountry.com is a place to start. Sometimes here too (in the sale section). |
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2) Do not buy a car sight unseen. 3) Do not buy a car that you have not driven. 4) Spend as much money as you comfortably can on it. The more you spend, the better the car will be. |
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3. Driving is part of my rule that do not buy a car you haven't sat in. The cobra foot box has you sit at an angle to the pedals. It seems uncomfortable at first but I got used to it. The second part is that the seat and steering wheel positions are different for every manufacturer and even within the same especially if it is a kit. I found that two superformance cars I tried on - you don't sit in a cobra, you wear it - the steering wheel hit me in the lap. Shelby csx either through seats or steering position column was perfect. Some owners won't let you drive it. But at least sit in the driver's seat and be sure it fits. You dont want to getva car onlyvto find it needs thousands of dollars of restructyring to be drivable. Don't get too upset if they won't let you drive. Cobras are squirrelly and can break loose with the simplest things that don't affect a street car. I wouldn't let unknown inexperienced people drive mine either. |
Thanks to everyone for your messages. I do have a gen ll Viper (red 2002), and your words of wisdom sound similar to what I would tell anyone looking to buy one of these quirky cars as well. I'm sure I've seen Bill's ERA cobra at Michelin cars and coffee. I'm there almost every month.
Bill, I'll send you an email. Thanks for your advice. |
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