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You might want to get in touch with an ididit rep and see if it can be fixed before scrapping it and getting another.
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Would a GM style adapter work?
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As far as the front tire backspacing goes, you can go to a narrower wheel, you probably have 15x8 and yu can use a 15x7. Also, you can get narrower control arms. genereally up to 1 inch upper and 5/8 lower. There is also some fiberglass work you can do that is not terribly difficult to do. I can send you a link when I get to the office on Monday.
DO NOT GIVE UP, IT WILL MAKE A CAR!. Byron |
The Moto Lita wheel and adapter is slightly offset on two holes...I don't know why, just rotate it until it fits. As far as being too tight, I cannot answer that. Maybe a machinist can correct it. Good luck.
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Lots and lots of fabrication on a street beast. If ur not a true builder, u will have trouble. I had enough money in mine to by a very nice kirkam or csx. When done it was beautiful and no one even thought it was a streetbeast but the name killed it. It now reside in Texas and my BDR arrives next week. :).
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http://i308.photobucket.com/albums/k...8137/photo.jpg
This was mine. I spoke with the owner a few months ago and is enjoying it. Adding to it's trophy collection. Lol. Tried to buy it back, but couldn't afford the number. The manual...I will look again through my stuff. If I have it I will be happy to send it out to u |
I 'm using a fox 8.8 rear set up with the 17" replica wheels from FFR. I'll let you know wednesday how it fits:)
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NICE StreetSnake, wish mine comes out this good.
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Thanks, your only barriers are time and $$$$. I had too much in both :LOL:
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Well guys, figured out that the column was chevy style, its shot. The boss looks like its Ford, trying to confirm it. Since I would have to buy a new column, I will make sure the boss is Ford and buy the Ford style column. The old column was too short anyway (28").
30" tilt column barely reaches the firewall. I think I will go with 32". It will stick out about 1.5"-2" into the engine compartment, or not at all depending on how close to the chest I mount the steering. Next item would be the foot controls. I have the CNC brake and clutch pedals, don't think they would work either, they are too wide. There is not enough room for all three pedals, plus have room for dead foot. I was thinking of using all in one pedal assembly. One of the following: http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Race-Adj-Brake-Bias-Top-Mounted-Universal-Pedal-Box-270-/14/!BwfBGzwBmk~$(KGrHqQOKjwEvqEtNICrBMJL,8U74!~~_1.JP G http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Rally-Race-Kit-Car-All-In-1-Floor-Mounted-Pedal-Box001-/16/!BvRYLK!EGk~$(KGrHqN,!isEv1+0C)7uBMD4t-75MQ~~_1.JPG Or, the Tilton floor mount pedal assembly. Would you guys share what you have used in your streetbeast, both for steering column and the foot controls? |
StreetSnake you are correct, it seems like I would have to do a lot of fabrication and since I have never taken on a project like this, I am going to need lots of time, and $$$. It will be along process!!!
The person whom I bought the kit from had most of the parts, but it seems like he went to the grocery store and pick up things off the shelf. Not stopping to check and see if they would match with each other. He gave me receipts for over $41K in parts alone! |
Good advice "tcrist", did talk to them and took the column apart. Not worth fixing. It was too short anyway. Did find out that it was GM style. My boss probably if Ford.
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I'm using a TKO600 trans and with a 302 block I have extra room inside my tunnel. For pedals, I'm cutting out the right side of the tunnel and moving it about 2-3 inches toward the shaft for more room. Planning on Tilton floor pedals with an additional steel plate installed below the fiberglass. Looking for a break pedal which goes to a single piston which can then be fed to a balancing valve.
Another question.... the rear end of my car is exceptional high above the wheels, as well as somewhat high looking above the ground. The bottom of the fiberglass body is directly against the steel of the frame, and I'm at minimum motion levels for the coil over suspension. We're thinking about cutting into the bottom of the fiberglass in order to raise the suspension a bit higher. Did any of you find this to be the case with your kits, and what did you do to correct it. I currently have about 4 inches between the top of my 17R 315/35 tires and the bottom lip of the wheel well. I would like this to be either even, or only about 1/2 above the tire... very much the way it appears on the front of the car. Feedback welcome! Thanks. |
We cut out the old springs and put in coilovers. That fixed the problem but obviously that is a little fabrication work. I'll see if I can find a pic of my rearend setup. By doing that we could fit 335s under her. Looked nice.
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Here is the best I could come up with. Hope it helps. I ended up swapping these coilovers out for Afco's which made a world of difference. The chrome ones were nice lookers but that was about it.
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...a_Rearend1.JPG |
Thanks RedEye, I am using an FE motor with 4sp. I may have some room if I cut the tunnel, but would rather not. It won't give me enough anyway. Tilton floor mount assembly would give me enough room but I still have to figure out if I would have enough leg room. I am only 6' but with long limbs, more the size of 6' 2-3", so the leg room is also very important. I would give it serious thought when I get to it.
Someone advised me to only tackle one thing at a time. Its a good advice. For now figuring out steering is my priority. I think I have that figured, just have to confirm the the length of the column and the splines for the boss. As for your rear end, is it 4link with panhard bar? if so you should have at least three mounting points for the coil-overs. In my opinion cutting the body shell should be the last resort. Having said that, now that I think about it, when I got mine, there was already some cutting and patching done in front towards the top of rear wheel well. Will let you know if that had anything to do with it. Won't be able to check for a while though. |
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Here are a few photos. These were taken a few weeks ago, and dont show the suspension installed but do show the placement of the rear suspension parts. All the control arms are race stock. You can see from the second photo how the car seems to have a 'bumble bee butt' and rides a bit high on the back end... the fiberglass is entirely on the frame.
You can see the photo with the body on how the body seems to be tiled in the back when comparing it to the bottom visible edge of the frame below the door and windscreen. Are other cars like this? Not sure what to think, the fiberglass matches the frame very well, but the result appears incorrect. What do you guys think? |
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Thanks for the information regarding the tank as it's actually one of the next steps for us. As for the nod on the tires.... this is my first sports car (currently driving a Mazda3) so I thought if you're going to do it, may as well go big... but when I saw the size of the 315 rears, I realized what an amazing project this is going to be... and that it's a very serious car! :):):)
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