Thank you guys so much for the help. I will list some of the car features. I hope you do not think me boastfull.

1993 Contemporary Cobra
SC design
Miles: 2500 car & 500 engine

Color: Midnight Metallic Blue with white stripes
Paint: Glassurite ( Same type used on Mercedes Benz)
Condition of paint: Excellent

Engine: FE Ford 451 CID
Block: 427 side oilier cross bolt ( Not a service block )
Bore: 020" over
Fasteners: ALL bolts & studs and ARP
Crank: 428 ford IUB Super Cobra jet
Rods: Lemans, Magged, Polished, Double Shot Peened,
Pistons: Custom Ross flat tops yeilding a true 10.57:1
Heads: Eldelbrock & CNC ported by Jim Kunse
Valves: Ferria ( I didn't spell this correct)
Retainers & locks: Crane Posi Titanium
Rocker Arms: Dove custom with .125" offset and modified for better oil control ( will not scuff)
Pushrods: Smith Bros Custom 3/8" super heavy wall
Lifters: Crane Roller offset pushrod
Cam: Cam Dynamics custom grind
Cam Drive: Milodon Gear
Oil Pump: Precision High Volume & Pressure 5/16" drive with heavy duty drive shaft ( Oil Pressure hot 40# idle & 70-80 @2000-3000
Intake: Edelbrock Victor ( Modified for hood clearance and altered pushrod hole location for no port restriction)
Ignition: All MSD ( Dist, 6AL, Coil, Wires, Manual Retard) All under the dash on custom modular unitized board with plug in terminals.
Carb: Custom built by Pro systems Holley 1000 cfm HP. Modified 3 circuit design.
Oil Pan: Canton 8 qt Road Race with custom windage tray.
Flywheel: Aluminum
HP & Torque: 540 ft lbs @ 4300 & 540 HP @ 6000 Dynoed.
NOTE: This motor can produce much more if desired with a more aggressive cam. I did not think that it needed more. It is over built both reliablity and HP potential than it currently makes. I like to be conservative here.

Radiator: Griffin twin 1.25" core.
Fan: Vintage Air Monster Fan over 4000 cfm pull with custom shroud. (THIS MOTOR DOES NOT EVEN COME CLOSE TO EVER OVER HEATING. RUNS 160-180 EVEN WITH AIR TEMP OF 100 DEGREES)
Fully Shrouded intake side.

Clutch: Centerforce

Trans: Ford Big shaft top loader

Rear Suspension & drive: Jag
Dana 44: with 3.54:1 Posi
Cover: T&D girdle with Carrier Bearing supports
Half Shafts: Tubular with heavy duty "U" joints
Lower "A" arms: Stock jag with custom made radius rods running forward on the frame. Well engineered and looks like the car was designed for this. Really strengthens the "A" Arm.
Hub Housings: Accurate Machine with Watts Linkages. Modified to strengthen the pivot point.

Front Suspension: Jag with coil overs
Lower "A" arm: Custom made back half for increase strength
"A" arm pivot points: Billett Aluminum and modified to move tires under wheel well for better appearance.

All suspension parts are powder coated

Shock: Front & Back are Spax fully adjustable

Brakes: Front Willwood & Back Jag stock

Wheels: Trigo Pin drive with 6 pin

Knock offs: Halibrand

Trunk: Custom Aluminum panels like the SC cars

Engine Compartment:
No exposed wires
All hoses are braided and symetrically routed
Brushed Aluminum fire wall
Brushed Aluminum header heat sheilds that are double insulated
( NO HEAT TRANSFER INTO CAB AND NO HEAT DAMAGE TO BODY)

Interior
All Smith Gauges (Modified for reliability)
Dash is reinforced to resist vibration
All Electrical Connection are quick disconnect type and dash can be removed in less than 10 minutes.
Carpet: Wool
Seats: Leather

Pedal Assembly:
Custom Under car with Modular design
Dual Brake Master Cyl with mech. bias adjustment & additional Hyd. Bias adjustment in the cab.

Misc.

All fasteners on the entire car are ARP Stainless steel.
Underside of car is detailed

I designed the car to be very easy to service:
All attachment points are designed to be installed and removed from one side of the fastener. No through the body nuts and bolts.
All Electrical is modular, marked, relayed and easy to access.

I can pull the engine and have it on a stand by myself in two hours and can reinstall in four. That includes trans and side pipe removal.

Everthing on this car fits with extreme precision. It slips together.

In building this car I would not compromise on any fit and finish issues. It had to go together as perfectly as I could do. Before I proceded with any part. That part must look as if it was engineered it work and fit in that location and must be easily servicable.

It truly is a maintenance free and very dependable car.

Car did win the best Cobra at the All Ford Car show in Portland, OR 2003.

Car starts easy. Runs extremely well. Doesn't give the owner any worries while driving it. Nothing left to sort out.

Price: $55,000.00

Sorry about the mis-spellings

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...cobra6-med.jpg http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...cobra5-med.jpg http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...cobra1-med.jpg http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...cobra3-med.jpg http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...cobra4-med.jpg http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...cobra2-med.jpg

I cleaned up your thread and added the pics....Hope you don't mind. In my haste though, I believe I deleted a post about your trailer on accident. Ooops!

Thanks to Computerworks and others for assisting here!

Beautiful Cobra by the way!

Hey Brent

Thank you for the help. It looks great. I will be selling my trailer as well. It is a 20' enclosed and used twice. Very good quality unit. I will give details to whomever wants to know.

Price: $4,800.00

Outstanding car. Good luck with the sale. The engine compartment looks spectacular.

I may be interested it the trailer! By the way, where was the picture of the car taken - it looks like Arizona? Where is the trailer? Can you post a picture?

To Cobra de Capell

It will take me a little while to get a pciture of the trailer on the website. Maybe by tomorrow.

The Picture was taken in Oregon where I live.

Nice car, the Contemporary Cobra has always been one of my favorites. I'm sorry that they discontinued production.

What brand and model trailer do you have for sale?

gsharapa@ford.com

Sorry I have not responded sooner. I travel alot by trade. I have sold the trailer. Car is still around.

What a beautiful car!
The quick disconnects are a good idea. Did you use some type of labeling system so you could get them connect back together correctly?
I need to remove the dash on my car. I may give your system a try.
Good luck selling your car
Roger

Very nice looking car, especially the engine compartment!

To rbray

Thank you for the compliment. The quick electrical connectors I used are sold through McMaster Carr. Tel. 562-695-2449. These connectors are multi-pin style male/female. To assure no cross wiring would occur where more than one male/female connector was used. I opposed the connection points. Therefore you could only plug in each connector one way. The under dash consists of (2) each 12 pin Male/Female and (1) 2 pin 15 amp connector for the headlights. All the 12 pin are less than 5 amp signal type as all other heavy load electrical demands on my car are ran through relays.

I hope this helps in your wiring project.

Best of luck.

To snakefire

I have responded to your e-mail.

To those that may be interested:

I have again decided to sell the car. I have made some improvements since the original posting. I hope that you find it interesting.

1. Increase in compression to 11.6:1 ( still runs on pump gas because of new bigger cam. Cold Crank is 205#)
2. New Comp Cam Custom Roller grind
3. Heads have been o-ringed and freshened
4. The exhaust has been redone with:
a. New Primaries.
b. New Mufflers ( Very low restriction)
c. New High gloss ceramic silver finish.
5. Volt Gauge replaces the amp gauge.
6. New Stainless steel jack pads with very strong custom stainless steels mounting shafts. ( The pictured bumpers will go with the car too.)
7. Engine is lowered inthe car 1.25"
8. New custom Alternator Brackets

I recently had the car appraised by a licensed appraisor @ $85,000. That, I believe, this is too high. But the car is worth $65,000. I will still sell at the price of $55,000.

What a beautiful car. A real credit to you !!! Good luck with the sale.

Nice car looks to be in great shape, how much room for the long leged personell in the crowd.

Hello Mackpipe:

When I re-did the pedal positions I took into account longer legged people. I have a friend that is 6'4" and he has no trouble fitting into and using my pedal position after these modifications. I am 5' 11" and I have to move the seat forward to work the pedals comfortably. To make this possible I did the following

1. Raised the steering wheel 1"
2. Went to floor pivot pedals
3. Used bellcrank pedals to get the correct and most open location for the pedals to rest in.
4. Set the clutch much further forward to ease throw during quick shifts. And went to a larger master cylinder to shorten the throw distance.
5. Pedal pads ( the shelby type) can be multi-positioned to fit your foot size.
6. All pedals pivot on bronze pillowblock bearings for strength, ease of movement, and no squeaks
7. Gas pedal has a tab to allow easy heel-toe breaking.
8 If the system still needs adjustment the entire assembly comes out from under the car the modify to fit whomever buys the car.

Hope this helps explain.

Regards

Concobra

To Mackpipe

I failed to mention these modifications are recently done after my original selling post.

Is this car still for sale?
 

Very interested based on recommendation from Cracker. Please email me.