Doug,

Looks like you should be able to use something like this JEGS Performance Products 100730 JEGS Brake Line Fitting Adapters or these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hdt-lk-009/overview/ and run straight hard lines to it.

Hi, Henrik! Great to hear from you. My wife is great, without her, I don't know what I would have done. My kids are in NY with their Mom. They're doing ok, I see them as often as humanly possible. Working for the airlines, I get to go up whenever time is available. That is another issue in working on the car, of course. When I have free time, I spend a lot of it going to see the kids. They come first. It's tough having them in NY. They're great, I'm very proud of both of them. Thanks for asking!

I see how the line would seal to the fitting, but how does the fitting seal to the caliper?

I was thinking of this too, Ed. I have to see what the stock lines look like and how Jag handled it. Thanks!

Use this JEGS Performance Products 100732 JEGS Brake Line Fitting Adapters with copper washersabove and below the banjo fitting. See this picture and the caption below it. Front And Rear Disc Brakes Banjo Bolts Photo 18

Now I dont know anything about a jag rearend brake setup. Just thinking outloud.

Hi Doug,

It's good to hear that you're okay. :)

The rams have been doing what rams do again and we once again have plenty of bouncy young lambs. :LOL:

Don't forget you're both very welcome to come and stay if you ever want to take a break over here.

On the brake line front, does this picture help? It is of my Contemporary when I was building and clearly shows the routing of the rear brake lines.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...a_Build001.jpg

Paul

Thanks, Terry. I guess it'll work just fine assuming the brake lines are drilled and tapped into a machined area on the caliper. I have to take a look. I'm thinking that the area on the caliper where the brake line enters the caliper was not machined flat on a large enough area for the copper banjo fitting to have a face to seal to, but that's going by long ago memory. I have to get over there to take a look. Thanks again,, your idea is certainly appreciated!

Hi, Paul -

First and foremost, I'm am so pleased to hear that the perverted rams and sheep are at it again. Lots of red ears running around, no doubt!:LOL:

It's great to hear from you, and I can't tell you how many times I have pored over the picture that you just posted. 99% of the picture is perfect in showing how the brake lines are run, and in fact I used that very picture to determine how to run my lines in a very similar fashion. However, as luck would have it, the sway bar blocks out the very tiny portion of the picture that I really need to see in order to figure out how Jag or Contemporary did it. The area where the brake lines come out of the caliper vertically, bend immediately to horizontal, then bend again to descend vertically is exactly what I'd love to see. my problem is that my lack of brake line bending skill, coupled with a bender that may have some limitations equal to those of the user, makes it impossible for me to make the first bend close enough to the entry point to the caliper, meaning that the lines are too high coming out of the caliper vertically before they make the bend to horizontal.

Thanks for the pic and the invitation as well. I wish I could get over there, or you here. I'd love for our families to get together, we'd have a great time I'm sure.

Hope all is well,
Doug

Glad to hear you are doing better!

A couple of thoughts on the brake lines... if you can't get close enough to the end to do the 180-degree bends, leave a little slack and bend it away from the fitting, then cut and reflair the end, or have a shop do the initial 180-degree bends and then take it from there. Should make life easier...:)

Did you slide the nut back away from the flair when you tried to bend it?

Gald to hear your problems
 

767JOCKEY Doug for tight turns with brake lines, try this. Get the fitting to the end of the line. Need a set of vice grips and a socket. You can clip on the fitting and bend the line around the socket for a 180 bend. Smaller the socket tighter the bend. I think your limit is about 1/2". If you have a problem with the 180 degree bent, do a 90 with a circle of 360 and another 90. This will not look pretty but work fine, going on 16 years. The new brake lines are softer that the stainless steel ones too. Rick L. Ps gald to hear you grumping:eek::mad::LOL::LOL:;):MECOOL:

Well, in the interest in doing a better job of posting, here's the latest. I ordered a radiator mount kit from Nick Acton. As some of you know, the radiator in the Contemporary cars is upright. I had bought a radiator mount that Nick made a few years ago that allows the radiator to lay back at a proper angle. Nick has since revised bracket into one that is a pure bolt in, rather than needing fabrication work to install, which as I have said in the past is my second most non-existent skill after electrics.:LOL:

I have no idea when the bracket will be coming, however, when it gets here I'll head over to Bills where the car is parked and get started. As for the brake lines, I did all that work with the body off, I don't know if I will be able to get in there and work on the lines and the parking brakes with the body on, I'll have to take a look. If not, I'll take the body back off. It's no big deal to do, as it's now just siting on the frame and held in place with four loose bolts.

That's it for now......boring, I know, but I said that I would do better on posting, so that's the latest!

Thanks for the update, keep 'em coming!

Well, not much of an update, but here's where I'm at now. I received the radiator mounting frame from Nick Acton and did a trial fit on it. All looks good, as I speak the radiator is temporarily in the car and everything seems to fit well. I'm going to run back to Bill's as soon as I can and measure the opening between the top of the radiator frame and the front edge of the hood opening, and order the aluminum panel to fill the space from Nick. I just today ordered a Ford Taurus fan and shroud at Jim's suggestion to try to keep the engine cool down here in the Houston heat. Hopefully with some time and attention I can do a decent job on the install and have it not look too noticeable. I have a brand new Spal fan in the box that I bought long ago that I can use if this Taurus fan doesn't work out for whatever reason.

The body is just laying on the car, held on temporarily with two loose bolts. It'll come off in about ten minutes with four guys lifting from each corner. Before I do the final radiator install I'll probably pull the body off and take care of the rear brake lines and emergency brake issue. It'll be 100 times easier to take care of with the body out of the way. I'll take that opportunity to run the fuel line and pump as well, as that will be easier with the body off too.

The rear sway bar mounts are bolted into holes drilled and tapped into the frame. While the body is off, I want to try to strengthen the mounting points. I'm hoping one of you guys have some idea what type of threaded insert I can get in there.

That's about it for now, more as it comes.

Doug

Doug--a piece of info just to be shared between the secret 767 folks-----you can probably reverse sides with your calipers and the lines will point down-----by splitting the calipers you can leave the outer halfs on the sides they are on so the bleeders go up------------

Oooh...cunning. ;)

Hmmmmm, that sounds interesting, I never thought of that. I have to take a look and see how that would play out with the E- brake actuating arms. I don't recall by memory how they are attached to the calipers. If I can flip the calipers and have the arms and bleeders stay on top, that just might work! Thanks, Jerry!

You think THAT'S cunning? Hah, you haven't seen anything. You should see the secret 767 initiation and handshake........it's amazing!:LOL:

How are you going to bleed brake , if the line faces down bubbles go to the top. The Watts link does not replace the radius arm without a radius arm you will get shudder at the wheel still. The Watts keeps the wheel from collapsing if you break a drive shaft .

The suggestion is to split the calipers and keep the bleed nipples on the top. Pay attention. ;)

The Watts linkage doesn't "keep the wheel from collapsing if you break a drive shaft". It stops the suspension twisting under heavy loads e.g. hard acceleration and braking. However, I broke so many fulcrum bolts on mine that I gave up and took it off.

Paul

I'm obviously not inside the circle. :CRY: ;)