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CCX33331 bad brakes
I just got the Cobra a few months ago and I'm working through a few issues. The most important to me is the brakes. They feel real spongy and lack the stopping power this car needs. I can't even get the brakes to lock up when I stand on the pedal. The info I got on the brakes from the previous owner was it has a proportioning valve and Wilwood disc upgrade. It still has the VW master, are these enough for the car or should it be replaced? I really want to enjoy the car but the brakes scare the heck out of me.
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You probably will need a master with a big enough piston to match the Wilwoods, or a Wilwood double master w/balance bar and get rid of the proportioning valve.
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Does anyone know what master will fit in a CCX with or without mods? I'm aware of the floor mount option, but before I embark on that much of a mod I want to see what other options I have.
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Spongy can be from a poor pressure ie: air, rubber flex lines, and old Jaguar calipers. The rubber lines swell when compressed.
I switch my power jag set up to non-power Wilwood and changed all my flex lines to Stainless braided. Stops like an original now. Keep in mind thye still will not stop like 2008 power brakes from Ford. These cars use old technology. SPF uses new power Ford parts and they do stop like 2008 however it does, in my opinion, come at less feel and more automatic pilot. |
I ran a bunch of calculations on this at the thread below. You can change your front calipers to the larger piston versions or search for a smaller master cylinder piston diameter. I sold my Wilwood 1.4" diameter calipers for about $140/pair and bought the new ones for about $150 each, should bolt up to what you have if both Superlites. It also corrects your front-to-rear bias.
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/show...wilwood+brakes |
Asside from the spongy part, having to stand on your brakes to get your car to stop generly means you have too large of a M/C.
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Takes the Gov of California to stop the car if you use Dunlop Calipers....:eek:
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Tims right smaller master will give more travel but higher caliper force. Hey Wayne post some pics in your gallery we want to see your new CCX!
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Hi:
I've got CCX3057 with an older front upgrade (JFZ dual piston calipers, stock rotors, SS brakelines) with stock XKE rears. Using what I've found to be a 1976 Ford Courier dual circuit master cylinder (similar to VW but with 0.750" piston dia.). Photo included in an earlier thread on CCX3057. Like you, I'm working on upgrades but going slow. Am replacing the M/C in kind, next pads, and we'll see from there. Will be interested to see how yours turns out. Kirk |
I looked through the paperwork that came from the last owner and I'm seeing numerous bills from repair shops bleeding the brakes, checking brakes and so on. So I don't think the problem is new. Looks like they added the Wilwood calipers and a proportioning valve at the same time. There is no evidence any work was done on the M/C.
I'm not looking for power brakes just want the car to be safe. My 1937 Ford had non-power brakes that worked great, so I know it can be done. I'll be under the car sometime this weekend to get some specifics. And if someone will tell me how, I'll upload some pics! |
Figured out the photo's part.
Look under CCX3331 Wayne |
Hey Wayne just a thought does it try to lock up one end more than another? Maybe the proportioning valve hasn't been set..........Good job on the pics BTW.
Cheers |
I haven't tried screwing with the proportioning valve yet. Nothing locks up right now, and thats the reason I've left the valve alone. If I close the valve so the highest % goes to the front or rear I guess I could identify problems at either end.
This site is great by the way. Finding out that I wasn't going to have to recreate the wheel really got me excited about the car. When I first traded my street rod I was worried I was being taken, having no knowledge of these kits. But this site has put most of my fears to rest, and I am pumped up. Looking at Jeff's car and some of the others I am thinking of taking some lessons so I can learn how to drive this thing like it was meant to be driven. What does everybody do for insurance? Hagerty? Wayne |
Well I played with the proportioning valve and f I turn it all the way in one direction I can get the fronts to lock pushing the pedal as hard as I can. The pedal never bottoms out. Now I think the problem is in the rear brakes and I'll start there. I am not greatly encouraged by what I have read about getting to the rear calipers, but you gotta do, what you gotta do.
What are the best pads for the stock rears? Any tricks or tips that might help would be appreciated. Wayne |
Hey Wayne that's a good place to start. Sounds like better brakes at one end anyway. Almost sounds like something is funny with the proportioning valve hook up. I think you'll find they are supposed to give the front everything they've got and choke the rears down till they are balanced. Doesn't sound like yours was that way?? Remember too you don't want the tail locking up or the darn thing will try and swap ends so at least you have the braking where it's most needed.
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Swaping ends is my greatest fear with this car, I'll explain later.:eek:
It was odd that no matter which way I turned the valve the brakes really did not improve. With the exception of when it was turned completely in one direction I could get the fronts to lock. When I first got the car it had a bad oil leak that I fixed, except for the intake. The oil coated the bottom of the car and may have caused the problem with the rear brakes if they were exposed to oil spray. I can see now this is going to be a lot of fun... ...NOT!:CRY: Now if I could find about two uninterrupted weeks to work on it...**) Wayne |
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