Club Cobra

Club Cobra (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/)
-   Contemporary Classic Forums (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/contemporary-classic-forums/)
-   -   brake stopping problem (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/contemporary-classic-forums/98713-brake-stopping-problem.html)

mrmustang 08-03-2009 02:35 AM

brake stopping problem
 
The following was sent to me this morning:


I have a Contemporary Cobra Replica brake stopping problem. It came w/Jaguar
suspension & Jag rear; the brake master cylinder is from a ‘86
Mitzubishi Starion w/built-in proportioning valve & no power assist.
It takes a tremendous pedal effort to stop this car & it's dangerous
to drive. Does somebody make a power brake master cylinder that I can
put on it that will do the job? The flange has 2 bolt holes that are
12-6 o'clock, not 3-6 o' clock. Appreciate any help or advice. Milton
Glodek, email: glom5062@verizon.net


Can anyone help out this guy?



Bill S.

mickmate 08-03-2009 03:54 AM

I'm making front caliper brackets to put the Wilwoods to both the solid and vented Jag rotors.

trularin 08-03-2009 05:16 AM

He needs to either share the configuration with the measurements so we can determine if it is lever or volume that is challenging him or take it somewhere where someone will do it for him.

Just my opinion.

:D :D

Fastz06 08-03-2009 07:14 AM

Nick
 
Can you e mail me the brake sizing/force formula? My contemporary has a 1 " MC and 1.375" Wilwood calipers. It takes alot of pedal force to stop. I suspect I need 1.75" calipers.

Thanks

Ray

trularin 08-03-2009 12:00 PM

Well, typically you need the fulcrum point and the distance to the actuator rod and the length of the pedal to the foot rest to calculate the pressure being exerted on the rod into the master cylinder. Then you need to know the size of the master versus the capacity of the calipers ( slaves ). Since it it hydraulic, it is a matter of pressure and volume.

So, you should be able to google this or get a high school physics book to give you examples.

Hope this helps.

:D

trularin 08-03-2009 12:05 PM

Ray, if you make changes the volumes, you may have excessive travel. For example, if you have a cylinder 1 inch and a slave 1 inch ( diameters ). if you push in on the cylinder and it travels 1 inch, the slave will go 1 inch ( volume to volume ). Now, if you change the slave to 2X the volume, it will only go 1/2 inch for the same volume from the cylinder you pressed 1 inch.

I hope this helps!

:D

mickmate 08-03-2009 03:49 PM

Hey Ray Tru makes sound suggestions on the measurements you need to be collecting. Shoot me a PM with an e-mail and I'll send you the excel spreadsheet I made up so you can just put your data in. There are some on line too that can do the same thing.

D-CEL 08-04-2009 10:14 AM

As I just recently went thru this while upgrading my SPF brakes.
Check the pedal ratio first!
For a manual system is should be a minimum of 6:1 but 7:1 is better.
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...alratiodwg.gif

A = Distance form pivot point to middle of push / pull point
B = Distance form pivot to point of push on master cylinder
P = Pivot point
F = Force or push

Once you get the ratio correct you can tailor the M/C bore size to provide the suitable line pressure.

Jason

racco 08-04-2009 06:09 PM

I have the same issue, plenty of power and poor brakes. I have wilwoods and vented rotors up front. They were installed in 1989, and the rotors are made by brembo. Would anyone have a part # for these rotors for future reference?
I will look into the poor braking in the next the next several weeks.

D-CEL 08-05-2009 10:00 AM

racco,

What chassis do you have?

Do you have the Brembo part#?

SF_SN888KE 08-05-2009 03:23 PM

There was good info on the SPF Braking thread a couple of weeks back. (do a search) Changing to softer brake pads, pedal ratio, master cylinder sizes, caliper size, adjusting balance bar, bleeding (interesting comments on bleeding), etc. similar to what Wilwood tech told me.

I had great solid pressure, 6:1 pedal ratio, front wilwood dynalite with 11" rotors with street pads (15" wheels) and 2003 Mustang Cobra rear calipers with street pads, but poor braking. It would take a gorilla to stop the car. After reading the thread, even understanding the math, it was easier and quicker to swap the MC from 7/8" to 3/4" on front, (test drive) and then rear. Car stops much better, but since it's smaller MC, the pedal goes down a little farther and just a tad softer.

racco 08-05-2009 06:19 PM

d-cel, I have 3155 but it was built in the mid eighties, the rotors are stamped 89'. I do not have a part number for them.

D-CEL 08-06-2009 09:18 AM

racco,

Is it an SPF? If so its a very early car and should have Mustang II spindles.

If not, what MFG is it?

Jason


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 05:07 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: