|
Difficulty with 3rd Gear
The problem is it doesn't seem like there is enough throw to properly engage third--it feels too short. All feels normal; slides past neutral and you encounter resistance as you are about to engage third. It is from that point forward that it feels odd--like I said seems short and awful easy (not much resistance) to push forward.
Of course, this makes a grinding noise--but it does go into third. If I'm real careful (two step, slow motion) it won't grind. But this is new behavior, so I want to find the trouble. All other gears act completely normal. I was under the car tonight and can engage all the gears pretty easily. I tightened the three bolts that secure the linkage to the transmission (all a hair loose). I see nothing amiss on the other (shifter) end. But I confess to being ignorant about transmissions. I seems to remember something from my boyhood about using a quarter-inch drill bit as an alignment tool (Hurst shifters), but I do not see where the hole is. Trans is CR big in/big out. Any help is appreciated. |
Once more,,,in harmony
Sounds like the synchomesh ring for third is broken. Third gear will still work, the synchro just makes it "smooth" and offers some "resistance" when you engage the gear. If it aint there, shifting would have little resistance as long as the "gear speeds", engine rpm and drive shaft speeds are all in "harmony". If not, it will "grind" a little as the various "speeds" in question come into harmony.
Sometimes I shift my 5 speed without the clutch, just rev the engine to match road speed for the next gear up or down. When you get it "right" it just "falls in" into place with little or no resistance because the "synchro" doesn't have to "match speeds". Ernie |
Ernie's got a point, if the syncro is broken or in bad shape, it could give you the problem you are discribing.
I had one that was cracked. every once it a while, I had to work at getting into second gear. Are you talking; toploader with Hurst comp. plus? Nice weekend project. Hope this helps. |
Trularin, yes, that's the setup.
I was afraid that was the problem, although it would sure be nice if some type of adjustment would fix the problem. |
Well, remember to use grease on the roller bearings when you reassemble the trans. David Kee has both the gasket kit ( $35.00 I think ) and the brass ring.
Make sure to realign the shifter after you are done. Good luck. Hope this helps. |
Hi Ernie,
how do you "just rev the engine to match road speed for the next gear up or down" ? Without trial and error how can you figure the right varibles before you shift? or is it just shoot and miss until you figure it out? Inquiring minds want to know... Thank you Jim |
Of course this is not recommended, I'm either a "professional" or an "idiot", take your pick. LOL
Shifting UP is generally easier to do than shifting down (but down is more fun). Say your in 4th at 3000 rpm and you want to shift to 3rd. What rpm will the engine be in when the shift is completed at the SAME road speed as in 4th? THATS the rpm the engine needs to be "revved" to to get the gear, engine, road speeds to match. Rule of thumb: Shifting up is less rpm, down is MORE rpm. This is HARD on the tranny if you screw it up! I learned the technique over the years with various cars with "bad" clutches and had no choice but to shift like that. Some real race drivers DO shift like that on occasion. Next lesson: What is "double clutching" really? A method of matching "gear speeds" to minimize the wear and tear on the synchos, or in the "old" days, when we didn't HAVE synchros! Ernie |
Thank you.
Now I have something to try on the old winter beater. Thank you Jim |
Ernie,
I learned to shift without the clutch in the military with the old jeeps. Like you said, not to easy on transmissions but fun when you don't mess it up. I don't do it any more as I have to pay for any broken things. Get a Jerico transmission for that stuff if you do it all the time. Ron :) **) :D |
On the Formula Fords, for instance, you have "square cut teeth" on the trans, there IS no synchromesh. Square cut means STRENGTH. You HAVE to double clutch to down shift.
Clutch in, move gear lever to neutral, let clutch OUT and QUICKLY rev up the engine to match road speed and spinning gears in the tranny speed, now quick before the tranny gears slow down, stab the clutch and push the gear lever hard into the next lower gear. Get it right and it slips right in! Get the rpm wrong and you waste the tranny, miss the gear and loose the race! Now do this while braking HARD for the corner with the ball of your foot pressing hard on the brake pedal and the heel of your foot reving the engine to the right rpm for the down shift! Whew, is it busy in the cockpit or what???? Ernie |
Ernie,
All of that is why they use buttons on the steering wheels. Next, a remote that the pit crew chief can use to do the shifting for the driver. Then comes the ultimate safety car. No driver and all remote ran from the pits. :LOL: :LOL: Ron :D :3DSMILE: :) |
Sorry I was at DVSF III all weekend. You can double check the shifter adjustment by shifting to nuetral and using a pin to align the levers. Normally if the adjustment is off by much it will affect more than one gear. It sounds more like what other members have described above.
|
Thanks David. I was able to get a 1/4" pin in the alignment hole this weekend. THis was easy enough to do, so at that point I pretty much ruled out any alignment-related problem. Just for kicks, I "shortened" the arm for third gear--first one turn and then drove it. Very little difference. Then, turned it two more revolutions and drove again. Still the same for third, but it had lessened the throw for fourth enough that it was noticeable.
Will shoot for pulling the trans next weekend, although I am smack in the middle of building a 90' reatining wall in my backyard, so it may have to wait. |
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 02:34 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: