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Replacing exhaust gasket
How hard is it to replace the exhaust manifold gasket? I think I've got a blown one on the driver's side. There isn't much clearance between the header and the body. How much disassembly is necessary? It looks like a pain.
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Tony,
I am not sure just what your clearance is on the unique, but on mine which is a Classic Roadster Body style I just have to unhook the side pipes, take out all the header bolts from the head being careful to not drop the header, and then lower the header down as the steering colom is in the way to bring it straight back. Ron :D :LOL: :MECOOL: |
Thanks Ron. Do you ever blow exhaust gaskets? My leak is back towards the firewall. The last header bolt was a bit loose.
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Tony,
I have only had one gasket blow and that was because I didn't pay attention when I put it on and never got it straight. My car is so loud I have to look to see if any exhaust gas is coming out around the headers but I haven't found any leak since that one in 1998. If I just have a small leak I will never know it. Ron |
Exhaust (header Gaskets...)
You just need to drop the header ... you dont need to take apart the entire exhaust... you should be able to losen
the bolts on the head ends (removing the middle ones) and pull the gasket out. If you want you can clean up the surfaces with a scraper but its not necessary. Then get a new gasket with the "end Hooks"; there designed so that you DONT have to drop everything to replace them. THAT way you keep your side pipes hooked up and there give, gives you enough slack to change the gaskets out. Think about it... you think you pull an entire OEM exhaust to pull the gaskets or for that matter the heads. Don't make this harder than this is. Rich |
Rich is correct about what he said. If I had the type with the end hooks on I could have saved myself a lot of work. I do have them now. Thanks for pointing out that I didn't mention that Rich.
Ron **) %/ :JEKYLHYDE |
Tony,
There are two tricks I would suggest to help you. 1.If you don't already have them, buy the locking header bolts. They really work. 2. If you use non-metalic gaskets, soak them in water overnight before installing them. I had a LOT of trouble with leakage before I did this. No more! Paul |
I just finished replacing the left side header gasket, used the slip ends and I used by floor jack to keep the headers in place so I could just replace the gasket and bolt back up. I had to clean of the heads as the former owner used casket seal. No real problem. Easy job for 1st time trying anything mechanical.
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Quote:
I like the blue fel-pro header gaskets. I don't do the water soak trick on the fel-pro's. The paper/aluminum ones are junk. Watch the header bolts, they need to be tightened every once in a while. Keeping them tight will prevent the need to replace the header gasket. |
Interesting tips. I purchased a set of copper gaskets, milled out the exhaust port openings (heads are ports were opened quite a bit) and installed them with the sealant provided by the gasket manufacturer-Specialty Component Engineering. They're not "hooked" so I had to remove the headers. It really wasn't much of a problem. They really have to be tight to prevent backfiring between shifts. I've gone through and tightened the header bolts three or four times between rides. I hope it just takes time for them to seat. If not, I'll replace them with something else. I hate backfiring.
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Tony,
Backfiring is not so bad. People will make room for you to change lanes if fire is coming out of your car! :D Paul |
Hallaluya! Backfiring problem resolved. I finally broke down and removed the suspect header (passenger side) and peeled the copper gasket off the head. It was obvious upon first glance which port was leaking as it was sooty black all the way around. Upon closer observation, I found a small piece of the original paper gasket stuck to the copper, which of course kept the mating flanges from seating properly. I cleaned up the gasket, added some permatex form a gasket and put it back together. Perfect!
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