I agree with Patrick concerning the fuses first, then the next thing would be to check the ground.

The trouble with seeing out of the top to change lanes does not surprise me. However; I must say having the top up in 60 degree weather seems a little wimpy to me :cool: Maybe, if it is in the 40's....

Oh yes, I spent weeks sorting out all of the lights and other electrical circuits. I'm surprised you don't remember - I couldn't get on side's signal lights to work and finally (finally) found two wires in one of the big plugs that were reversed. I think they were working in my earlier drives because the dash indicator worked. It was only because it stopped working that I checked when I got home and realized nothing was happening back there. I bought some more fuses so I'll try to check it out tomorrow.

OK, ok - maybe it was a little wimpy :o but after putting so much time and effort into fitting it, I was trying to experience it a little before I take it off and store it in the trunk until next fall.

Ahhhh, yes... it's coming back to me now. OK, just turn your lights on, put the VOM on the fuses on the firewall, then put them on the two little fast blow fuses on the steering column, then on the "trailer side" of the trailer relay, and then at the bulb receptacles at the back of the car. If it's not a broken ground at the back of the trunk, then one of those guys is gonna flunk the 12v test.

I had to return one of my front coil/overs back to ERA because the dampning wouldn't adjust on it. While waiting on it and the rain to end, thought I would post a couple photos of tweaks. Installed 1/4 inch (actually more like 3/16 inch) Holley gaskets under the carbs to improve heat insulation. The holes were too small for my 600 cfm carbs (??) so I used a drum sander in my drill to enlarge them to match the regular base gaskets. Surprisingly I still have quite a bit of hood clearance so I need to start looking for some air filters that will fit the S&H air cleaners and are about 1/2 taller.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...psa2981162.jpg

Although the headers are ceramic coated I'm a bit concerned about the battery sitting there so close. An aluminum sheet metal shield would be ideal and look a bit more finished but the brace to the suspension cross member is difficult to work around. So for now I slippd a piece of left over B-Kool foil surfaced inuslation under the battery and formed another piece into a shield to fit around the half of the battery closest to the exhaust. It's held on with self-adhesive velcro strips. Should work for the summer.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...psc269b48f.jpg

And of course my no expense barred, custom fit cockpit tonneau. I have a cover from ERA but I still enjoy going out to the garage every day and look at it.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps0a53ec26.jpg

Dan,
You can clean up that spring mess with one of these:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ga...lack/overview/
And do yourself and battery a favor-trunk mount it.
Can show you pics if you care.

Hi Chas - yeah, I probably need a concentric set instead of the present setup. Those look kind of short though. I need some with a longer end shank to reach without excessive pressure.

Mine stretch just fine but try McMaster if you don't like these. I made a small ally bracket for the last carb bolt and the whole spring stays nice and short.
Battery? Trunk? Or you gonna let 'originality' trump good operation?

If I was building more for performance than street cruising I probably would have put it in the trunk. Interesting, 428Street, as hooked as he is on originality put his in the trunk. However, right now my trunk is packed with the top, top bows, side curtains and a little emergency roadside kit I threw together to go in there.

I got my ERA last year, and I wanted to put a charger on the battery to make sure it had a full charge. Had to charge through the solenoid, because I couldn't reach the positive electrode. Within a couple of days, my battery was in the trunk. I figured if anything ever happened while driving, the battery is impossible to reach and the valve cover has to come off to get the battery out.

Jack just told you the 'non-performance' reasons to do it.
Unless you're going on a week-long cruise you don't need to carry all that crap in the trunk all the time. The emergency kit is fine and won't interfere with the batt. I put my mini tool box in the driver rear corner behind the well and scissor jack in the pass well.
Battery up on shelf with pigtails to the rear opening for the Battery tender. The whole center of the trunk is open.

Dan,

I have the battery in the trunk and Peter assured me the top and side curtains will still fit. Still waiting on my top...

My battery is in the trunk and I was able to have the tonneau cover, tool kit, travel bag and golf clubs in there with room to spare.

Have you tracked down your taillight problem yet? I had a similar issue at debug and it turned out to be the taillight connection was shorting to the reflector or socket. Took a while to figure out since it only shorted out when I hit a bump or something so everything checked OK in the garage.

Yes, I did. It was a spade connector at the front turn signal lead that inexplicably came loose(?). Sometimes it's the simple things.

Dan:
ERA 684 is a 427 car with the battery in the rear and I carry the top, side curtains, bows and a ton of other stuff in the trunk all the time. Here's a thread from a little while back about stowing it in the trunk. You might be able to use some of the ideas to get yours to fit. The pictorial starts about 4 or 5 responses down.
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/all-...top-trunk.html

DonC

Something tells me Dan would rather drive in the season than start a battery project.

I can't blame him but it should take a half day only once the cables are made up.....

[quote=ERA Chas;1304094]Something tells me Dan would rather drive in the season than start a battery project.QUOTE]

Correcto - appreciate the comments but moving the battery is not on my short list. After all - batteries relate to electricity. And I hate messing with electrical stuff - if it works and ain't broke - leave it the hell alone. :)

Words to live by. :)

Amen to that. There is only so much time that we have to drive our cars, there is an inverse relationship between tinkering and driving.

[quote=DanEC;1304146]Sorry but I gotta rant. You make me laugh Dan. This is not tinkering.
You turned the Earth inside out to fit a top, top bows and side curtains with the accompanying 1000 posts and lost time. Windshield washers, correct -vinyl -on -the -bulkhead ordeal, squirt bottles, carb spacers, insulation, exhaust system insanity (twice), heater and a raft of 'originality'...
But a half day battery relocate with two connections is insurmountable??:eek::(
'Mess with electrical stuff'?? Your Labrador could do this.
Another 1/2 hour if you go nuts and install a Merit kill switch (another 'non-performance' but excellent device) for a trouble free car.
If you actually put some miles on it, you'll take about 2 years worth of life out of the batt by cooking it. Then you'll have the fun of pulling the valve cover and breaking your hump to wrestle it out of there.
You could have built the car the right way, trunk-mounted, with easy access for a major maintenance device. All these guys told you your stuff fits fine and in essence, there's no reason not to do it.
The reason's not power-crazy Chas stuff-it's longevity. Remember 27 years with my car and it let me down exactly twice-snapped the shifter handle and puked the slave at the dragstrip.
Easy and frequent battery maintenance should be worth half a day after your 'eternity' build.
Still your ERA-lovin' pal but surprised and disappointed.**)