Desert Heat
 

Bob...
Went racing last weekend .... the fluid temperatures were arising. Water to 240, old dinosaur parts to 280. Already running Mobil 1 15/50. Had two 930 turbo's that just had to be dusted. What's being worked on in the way of bigger oil coolers? How much will the aluminum radiator help? I thought about installing a water/oil heat exchanger but I don't think I have enough capacity left in the radiator to make that work effectively. I've opened up the restrictor in the radiator abit, we will see this weekend if it helps any. Also removed and cleaned the oil cooler. Only other thing I can think of is to turn in to a trailer queen in August....but then Morty's already got that covered (for all months).

Also...FYI....we are getting some deflection in the front spindles. The rotors are moving enough to touch the bolts that mount the adaptors to the existing GM uprite. I noticed this after the last race...turned all the rotors and replaced the pads. After last weekend, we have grooves where the mounting bolts are hitting again.....I guess I could just grease the front tires to solve the problem.

Say hello to the merry men

Murt

Murt,

I suppose the temps here don't get quite as high as in Sunny California, but the track small-blocks here have run under 190F (water temp) in 90F ambient. I'll have to find out about the oil temps. Both cars here are running the aluminum radiators, which do seem to run a bit cooler, although I think Don Durner is still running the brass one with his 427. Are you sure that the water pump's doing its thing? It sounds like you're getting some cavitation, or the impeller is loose on the shaft.

Oh yeah - rotor deflection... :rolleyes:

Make sure that the wheel bearings are set tight enough. My technique is to torque the wheel-bearing nut to about 10 lbft and back off to the nearest cotter-pin slot.

HI MERT WHAT THROMASTAT DO YOU HAVE IN YOUR CAR ? IT MITE NOT BE OPENING ALL THE WAY WHEN RACING DO NOT LEAVE IT OUT PULL THREMO AND PUT IT IN BOILING WATER AND SEE IF IT OPENS ALL THE WAY FIRST. I WOULD REPLACE IT WITH A HIGH FLOW ONE ABOUT 12$ AT PEP BOYS YOUR WATER PUMP , IS IT UNDER DRIVE WITH SMALLER PULLEYS AND BY HOW MUCH? THE WATER PUMP I HAVE ON MY MOTOR IS THE ALUM EDELBROCK ONE WHICH HAS A FLAT PLATE ON THE BACK OF THE IMPELLOR TO HELP IMPROVE THE FLOW. HAVE YOU DONE A COMPRESSON TEST AND LEAK DOWN TEST ON THE MOTOR it COULD BE A HEAD GASKET ABOUT TO BLOW LOOK FOR A DISCOLORED SPARK PLUG THAT LOOKS LIGHT IN COLOR, IF YOU USE WATER ONLY THE SPARK PLUG WILL LOOK BRAND NEW AND HAVE NO CARBON ON IT . LOOK IN YOU EXPANDION TANK FOR BUBBLES IT THE SYSTEM FOR HEAD GASKET LEAKEN INTO THE TANK THEY HAVE A KIT TO CHECK THIS PROBLEM DO THE BASICS FIRST I HOPE YOUR CAR IS NOT HURT:) AND YOU WILL BE ON THE RACE TRACK SOON GOOD LUCK RICK LAKE RDCOBRA428 AOL@COM POWER IS YOUR FRIEND BUT TORQUE IS WHAT MOVES YOU FORWARD.

Bob, Interesting that you mention a torque setting for the wheel bearings. I've been searching for a torque setting for my Jaguar front wheel bearings. Any idea ?

Jeez Murt, if you had a real motor in that car , you wouldn't be running hot at all. We all know that a "real" motor wouldn't have to work much at all to dust off a couple a those fan inducted V- dubyahs. If you want, I could be persuaded to help out in this area.

Sorry to hear the new spindles are flexing, maybe if you tell Morty that this was a secret adjustable alignment feature from K. Miles, he'd pay a ton for it and of course would never feel the difference, but would have bragging rights.

BTW, my radiator is one of the 2 secret anti-flex skunkworks units from SAI. Steel baby, solid billet CNC milled steel for extra HD use in FE cars only. Pedro told me so himself.

Your old pal, 83

Bob...the wheel bearings are "burgy tight". Did have some thoughts about the H20 pump though....will give it some attention after this weekend. Motor leakdown is AOK...just had it done. Plugs all nice brown. Not running a thermostate...using a restrictor instead. went up to 1.125 opening for this weekend, (was at 1") we'll see.

Cheeks...what would you know about real motors....?...I thought your knowledge was in old maritime hardware...aka...boat anchors..what type of chain do you use to hoist that thang. I heard it actually has barnacles around the bottom of the oil pan. Never thought about selling the rotors and spindles to Morty....hey with the grooves and brake dust..he could really spin a yarn...might even convince someone he's actually driven his car....some one would have to explain what brake dust is and why its on the wheels, rotors, calipers,.....

Oh well, ...... off to the sand dunes with my black lite to see if I can catch dinner.

Murt

Dave,

The "Official" XJ specs are to set the wheel bearings with .002"-.006" hub end play. They actually want you to set up a dial indicator to measure this... Unless you have aluminum hubs, I tend toward the lower figure (or to use my torquing technique :rolleyes: ). Just make sure that on the subsequent cotter hole intersection there is some clearance. Better to have high brake pedal than bearings that last 20 years.

Murt:

...nuts too loose? Or is it that the screws are too loose?

Morty

PS: ...and Cheeks seems to have a theory of loading Ol' 99 up with lead. The more he adds the faster he seems to go. Go figure.

thanks Bob.

MURT,
I WAS HAVING TROUBLE WITH RUNNING HOT ON THE TRACK WITH A BIG BLOCK 427 (13:1, 650HP),ERA #328. THE TRACK TEMP WAS ABOUT 105, WATER TEMP 230, OIL TEMP 240. PETER SUGGESTED THE AL RADIATOR, THE LARGER OIL COOLER AND LARGER FAN.DID PUT A 160 THERMOSTAT IN....SOLVED ALL MY PROBLEMS.
WHILE I DIDN'T PLAY MUCH ON THE STREET, DID RUN 30 MIN. SESSIONS HARD WITHOUT A PROBLEM.
TERRY

late response
 

Murt,

my assumptions only apply if your water system is otherwise intact and your engine not leaning out or ignition set incorrectly:

I opened my engine bay so that a better amount of air was able to flow through the engine bay. To be correct: I shrouded the radiator only at the sides.

About 15% of the heat will be tranferred via the engine surface (convection).

Heat "loss":
30% = horsepower
30% = radiator
15% = exhaust
15% = engine surface
10% = oil cooler

Don't nail me down on these %-values.

A bigger fan won't help beyond 30 mph, because than the moving vehicle will pull more volume through the rad than the fan(s).

If the thermostat start the fan(s), that indicates not enough shrouding of the radiator.

I also let the air circulate around the hood. I was too lazy to install rubber here. In addition to that I cut openings into the sides of the hood scoop as seen on the original turbo 427.

I also drive the car without inner fenders which you may not like.

Do not forget to pressurize the system with a radiator cap rated at about 120 kPa or more.

To redefine your radiator's (fan's!) capacity for stop-and-go let the car idle until hot (fan off), cover 30% of the surface covered by the fan and/or place the car in front of a wall and check how the temperature drops. (hopefully!)

As a backup have a water hose handy to spray the radiator (not the engine!) in case your fan can't handle it.

Dave,
I used to tighten the front wheel bearings like this:
turn the nut to the point that you can barely slide the shim with a screwdriver and than find a slot for the cotter pin close by.

Dominik