Brake fluid leak
 

So against Peters wishes instead of the BMW fluid reserve I bought the billet kirkham canisters...there is a 3 inch rubber hose with clamps on each end that connects the hard lines to the canisters...I have one line that I can not stop a leak from seeping up one of the clamps and dumping fluid ?....any ideas on how to stop this?...ive tightened the clamp to no success...I've moved the clamp position no luck etc...any ideas?...please:CRY:

These leaks can fool you -- don't always believe your eyes.:cool: Put strips of paper around your canister and fasten them with a black pinch type clip that you use at the office. What you want to eliminate is the possibility that you're getting a slight splash out the top of the canister and it's leaking down the side and fooling you. Put little strips of paper right above the rubber hose as well, in the same fashion, to confirm the leak is not coming from the fitting at the base of the canister. Use plain white printer paper -- brake fluid stains it nicely. Once you've done that you might find that the leak is not coming from where you thought it was.

thanks Patrick
 

i forgot to add...the kirkham cansiter is two piece and was shipped to me with out locktight in the seal so it was leaking ...i just replaced it with a new canister from kirkham with locktight all sealed up...i adjusted the clamps put the fluid back in went for a ride...came back and again although less there was a drip on the cars frame and fluid sitting around the top of the top clamp....everything is tight i checked it again etc...im wondering if i should try a second clamp?...new hose...

i made sure not to fill the canister to much to rule out coming out the top of the wilwood tops etc..

i used a mirror to look up at the underside of the canister and its dry..the metal tube from the canister down to the top clamp is dry.baffled!

I've fought leaks with my reservoirs for years -- this year has been a good one, so far. Use the small screw-tightenable clamps on the rubber hoses and crank them down. If it's not at the clamps, this is what has worked for me: http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/all-...eservoirs.html

would you
 

put a dab of that then slide the rubber hose on the metal brake line?...you are probably right that the leak is coming from somewhere else....i might just try another clamp ...they are the small ones you referred too

thanks

Kevin

If the nipple is long enough, use two clamps with the screws 180 deg apart. Did all the rubber connectors in my fuel system that way with never a leak. OR:
cut the hard line low down, install a union and new hard line right to the cup with fitting, Don't worry about vibration.

Brake fluid, more than any other fluid, looks like it is leaking from a place that it's really not leaking from. Spend the extra time finding the source. For teeny, weeny leaks I found that the tissue paper that your wife wraps presents up in works astoundingly well at disclosing even the smallest leak. A really small leak of brake fluid can really fool you. Here's an example that I posted over four years ago: http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/all-...rtainment.html

Kevin,

I had some brake fluid leaks as well when putting together 2136.

Similar to what Patrick describes, I used strips of folded paper towels wrapped around the canisters & hard lines at strategic palaces and secured them with blue painter's tape, to find the source of the leaks.

One leak was from the one of Kirkham cans that was not sealed properly. Sent them back and they are all re-checked & sealed and returned, great customer service.

The second leak turned out to be a pin hole leak in the hard line where there is sleeve that is soldered / brazed onto the hard line to build up the tubing diameter, where the rubber hose slides over hard line.

I too tried to tighten the hose clamp and it still leaked. It took a while, but after wiping the area dry and then pumping the brakes, I finally saw a small droplet of brake fluid coming out of the soldered / brazed area. I removed this section of hard line and tested it under water with compressed air, and sure enough there were air bubbles. I sent the hard line back to ERA and it was quickly repaired, again great customer service.

One thing that made reassembly easier was using a bit of PBR-RG17 Rubber Grease on the hard lines to make sliding the rubber hoses on a lot easier. The grease is compatible with brake systems.

Hope this helps.

Here are a few photos of what I describe in my previous post:



Front can leaking at the seam
http://i616.photobucket.com/albums/t...KrkHmLeak1.jpg


Brake fluid quickly migrates
http://i616.photobucket.com/albums/t...KrkHmLeak2.jpg


Brake fluid is wicking up from below, not running down the pipe from above
http://i616.photobucket.com/albums/t...t/ERALeak1.jpg


Pin hole leak in solder / braze area
http://i616.photobucket.com/albums/t...ERALeak2-1.jpg


Once the leaks were fixed everything is working well.
I like the the choice that ERA provides with plumbing for the three can setup, and the look and functionality of the Krikham cans
http://i616.photobucket.com/albums/t...t/DSC_0688.jpg

Nice. BTW, why is the clutch can smaller than the brake cans? And for that matter, why are the Girling clutch cans tilted and the brake cans upright?:confused:

ahh
 

thanks...i was afraid of that pin hole leak....mine is doing the same thing!...i'm wondering if i have the same kind of hole?...i'll check tonight to see if that it...i wonder if I can just shoulder lead around it?...also anyone know what ERA is using for fluild i have that same blue stuff

thanks

Kevin

Use ATE Blue or 200 Gold.