| lippy |
08-07-2013 10:35 AM |
Bob at ERA mentioned they use the gravity method. Maybe start with a gravity bleed to get the system close, and then do as Patrick and Bret describe. Btw, Bob also mentioned they don't bench bleed the master cylinder. Just gravity.
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| DanEC |
08-07-2013 11:32 AM |
I think I'll start out with gravity but I've had limited sucess with that on my old Corvette and GTX in the past. The good thing is it's relatively easy and seldom makes a mess.
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| patrickt |
08-07-2013 11:37 AM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC
(Post 1256456)
The Motive Bleeder system to pressure bleed from the top is a highly recommended system but I just don't think it's compatible with the little Girling brake fluid cans.
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The Girling cans are a heartbeat away from leaking, even right out of the box. I wouldn't think of pressurizing mine. Gravity and the hose method will work fine - I'm sure of that. |
| Bernica |
08-07-2013 01:07 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt
(Post 1256459)
The Girling cans are a heartbeat away from leaking, even right out of the box. I wouldn't think of pressurizing mine. Gravity and the hose method will work fine - I'm sure of that.
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I switched out my Girlings to Kirkham's cans, bought the Motive system with the correct cap (important), added a quick-connect to the hose, which is a big help, and it works awesome!:D I agree with Patrick and would never pressurize the tin cans. |
| DanEC |
08-07-2013 01:24 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt
(Post 1256459)
The Girling cans are a heartbeat away from leaking, even right out of the box. I wouldn't think of pressurizing mine. Gravity and the hose method will work fine - I'm sure of that.
|
I'll second that. So far the clutch one has been holding fluid without problem - so far. |
| Bernica |
08-07-2013 02:09 PM |
I will restore the old Girling cans, and even locate the labels for them. But for daily driving, enough was enough!
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I use the speed bleeder (google it).
The easy one person bleeder.
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| DanEC |
08-08-2013 04:17 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by zots
(Post 1256574)
I use the speed bleeder (google it).
The easy one person bleeder.
|
I did a google but it looks like there are many, many part numbers and that it would be a real chore trying to figure out which ones to get for the front Camaro brakes and the rear Jaguar brakes. I may look a little further.
Thanks |
| patrickt |
08-08-2013 04:25 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC
(Post 1256584)
I did a google but it looks like there are many, many part numbers and that it would be a real chore trying to figure out which ones to get for the front Camaro brakes and the rear Jaguar brakes. I may look a little further.
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Chas. has been twisting my arm for years to get the speeders, but I've never gotten around to doing it -- pretty much for the reasons you cited. Bleeding with the hose and jar method is sooooooo easy, that unless you're pulling in to pit row, I just don't see the need for additional gizmos that probably won't fit without a bit of trial and error anyway. |
| ERA Chas |
08-08-2013 05:15 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt
(Post 1256585)
Chas. has been twisting my arm for years to get the speeders, but I've never gotten around to doing it -- pretty much for the reasons you cited. Bleeding with the hose and jar method is sooooooo easy, that unless you're pulling in to pit row, I just don't see the need for additional gizmos that probably won't fit without a bit of trial and error anyway.
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Speed Bleeders for the Girling calipers are 3/8 x 24. They are the EASIEST way to bleed inboards---period. Didn't have the Crapmaro brakes so dunno. Pull out a bleeder and size it in a die. My Wilwoods were 1/4 x 28 IIRC.
They are better than sliced bread with a vacuum bleeder.
And hey Mr. Wiseguy-I noticed in another thread that you said your Avons were a 'year or two away'.
When I held your hand with the wheel paint project you swore you'd can those brick Yokos at the end of this season.
Going back on your word? :mad: |
| patrickt |
08-08-2013 05:24 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA Chas
(Post 1256591)
When I held your hand with the wheel paint project you swore you'd can those brick Yokos at the end of this season.
Going back on your word? :mad:
|
No, I was chatting with a rep from a major tire producer and he said that if your tires are 99% garaged then you get an easy eight years out of them, absent abuse, tread wire and the like. Dry rot is not an issue in cases like this, I was told. Sunshine is the enemy. |
| ERA Chas |
08-08-2013 06:05 PM |
That rep pedals more BS than you do...
For a guy that buys needless cams for other guys, you gonna scrimp on tires??
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| saltshaker |
08-08-2013 06:23 PM |
Bleeding
Like most I use a clear hose into a plastic bottle but I fill the bottle with 2" of brake fluid making sure the end of the hose is covered in brake fluid so when I pump the pedal it doesn't draw any air in to the hose...10 pumps of the pedal, close the pleader and check the fluid in the resivor .....go to the next one
Jon
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| patrickt |
08-08-2013 06:33 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA Chas
(Post 1256603)
That rep pedals more BS than you do...
For a guy that buys needless cams for other guys, you gonna scrimp on tires??
|
Naaah, he's actually right. Both the British and Japanese tire associations both say ten years, when they're treated like mine (kept indoors, light use, proper inflation, etc.), and, supposedly, NHTSA is going to come out with the same conclusion... if they ever get off their butts. Remember, it's against the economic interests of the associations to put forth a longer life recommendation, so that alone lends credence. |
| ERA Chas |
08-08-2013 06:44 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt
(Post 1256606)
Naaah, he's actually right.
|
For Firestone Laredos and that ilk.
But I guess you don't clock a buck thirty every trip to haberdasher....;) |
| patrickt |
08-08-2013 06:47 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA Chas
(Post 1256607)
For Firestone Laredos and that ilk.
But I guess you don't clock a buck thirty every trip to haberdasher....;)
|
No, but I just had some delicious warm cheddar and cream cheese dip while watching the Redskins pre-season game. But, now that you mention it, I do need to pick up a couple of new suits....:cool: |
| mickmate |
08-08-2013 08:48 PM |
Brake bleeding brake bleeding brake bleeding...............................
|
| ERA Chas |
08-09-2013 06:06 AM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by mickmate
(Post 1256621)
Brake bleeding brake bleeding brake bleeding...............................
|
Relax Nick. I noticed that you haven't contributed any 'brake bleeding' advice from your professional standpoint to help ol' Dan here.
See posts 12, 16, 18, 23, 29 and 30.
Discussion about tire care is not exactly alien to brake discussion either.
And Jeff-remember all the advice you got from Patrick and used to get from me...? |
| Jaydee |
08-09-2013 07:20 AM |
I use the tube in a jar method but I have a one way valve in the tube. Also I pump 3 times, then open the nipple. If I'm flushing, you just keep pumping. You just have to make sure you let the pedal come right up, or else you block the bypass hole in the MC. I'm still wondering the best way to bleed the master from new without making a mess once it's already installed?
I have the twin master setup, Is the balance bar supposed to flop around, It looks ungainly not pushing central like a single setup? I've never had anything to do with this type.
JD
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| Bernica |
08-09-2013 09:55 AM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by mickmate
(Post 1256621)
Brake bleeding brake bleeding brake bleeding...............................
|
While I am totally fine with the Motive system for bleeding, this Phoenix system is interesting too. But at $400:eek: I will stick with the Motive.
Brake Bleeder Tool - Maxpro |
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