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-   ERA---Speak with Bob Putnam (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/era-speak-bob-putnam/)
-   -   Best approach to bleeding brakes - Part 2 (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/era-speak-bob-putnam/121768-best-approach-bleeding-brakes-part-2-a.html)

DanEC 08-12-2013 04:47 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by joyridin' (Post 1257091)
That was before I bought the Speed Bleeders...but it still didn't take me 5 hours.
Hell, I've been building this thing for 3-1/2 years. What would make you think it would take me any less time?%/

patrickt 08-12-2013 05:27 PM
Man, I'm going to be really surprised if it's sucking that much air past the threads on the bleeder screw on a freshly rebuilt caliper, but what-the-hay.... If Teflon tape doesn't fix it, then I say the caliper had a POS-rebuild job done on it, or maybe you're pulling air in the master cylinder because you're pumping too hard, with too long a stroke, and pumping too quickly.

kevins2 08-12-2013 05:34 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC (Post 1257130)
Kevin - any idea as too how high? I had the nose elevated probably about 7 to 8 inches in order to pull the front tires. No need to remove the rear due to the inboard calipers.
Hi Dan,

I did the same thing in my first attempt but subsequently spoke with Doug. He indicated you need to raise it as high as possible and, as I said in a previous post, he actually uses a section of 4x4 on his jack to raise it higher than the jack would alone. His point is that air can remain trapped in the master cylinders if you're gravity bleeding or even using the pedal pump method. This is my first time through this so I'm just passing along the information I received (and obviously has worked for Doug many, many times). There're a lot of good suggestions in this thread and, since I'm not happy with my pedal pressure, I'll be addressing this again myself.

Regards,

Kevin

joyridin' 08-12-2013 05:45 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC (Post 1257131)
Hell, I've been building this thing for 3-1/2 years. What would make you think it would take me any less time?%/
That is pretty good. My car has been on jack stands for over 3 years just to rebuild the Jag rear and upgrade the brake system.

Took me about an hour to bleed the system by myself.

patrickt 08-12-2013 05:56 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by joyridin' (Post 1257138)
That is pretty good. My car has been on jack stands for over 3 years just to rebuild the Jag rear...
Uhhh, you know you could just ship that bad boy off to Michigan Driveline and have it back in about a week, good as new....%/

joyridin' 08-13-2013 05:00 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt (Post 1257140)
Uhhh, you know you could just ship that bad boy off to Michigan Driveline and have it back in about a week, good as new....%/
I had the rear rebuilt last year. That wasn't too bad. It was upgrading the brakes that took so long. Seems like every little thing that would take 2 hours took 2 months. Still waiting on the caliper mounting brackets to be welded and drilled. They were supposed to be done a month ago. Everything else is finally ready to go.

Oh well...at least it will all be right.

DanEC 08-17-2013 05:44 PM
Well, I found speed bleeders at the local PepBoys so I picked some up and installed them today. Of course that didn't go uneventfuly as I had 3 calipers with 3/8 in bleeders and 1 - 5/16 bleeder requiring that I by 3 packs of 2 each. I didn't loose much fluid switching out the front ones but on the rear Girlings it made a pretty good mess. I also jacked the front of the car up pretty high and tapped on the master cylinders with a wooden handle to move any air out of them. I have a pedal now, although as Kevin2 experienced, it seems a little soft still. It may just take some time to get used to it.

Thanks for the help.

Dan

cscobra 08-21-2013 06:41 PM
Mine felt soft at this stage, too, Dan--pedal firms up nicely as you drive and as the pads seat themselves.

DanEC 08-22-2013 05:07 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by cscobra (Post 1258725)
Mine felt soft at this stage, too, Dan--pedal firms up nicely as you drive and as the pads seat themselves.
I think part of it is the amount of pedal travel before the brake pedal gets firm - it's somewhere around 2 to 2-1/2 inches on mine just from laying a tape measure down there and pushing on the pedal. Seeing how immediately the Tilton master engages the clutch slave cylinder - I would have thought the brakes would have a little higher pedal (?).

patrickt 08-22-2013 05:26 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC (Post 1258777)
I think part of it is the amount of pedal travel before the brake pedal gets firm - it's somewhere around 2 to 2-1/2 inches on mine just from laying a tape measure down there and pushing on the pedal.
That didn't seem right, so I walked out and took a quick measurement. Holding the tape measure and pushing the pedal with my hand, I measure mine at 1 and 3/4 inches. And it's pretty firm, whether you're pushing with your hand or your foot.

DanEC 08-22-2013 07:43 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt (Post 1258780)
That didn't seem right, so I walked out and took a quick measurement. Holding the tape measure and pushing the pedal with my hand, I measure mine at 1 and 3/4 inches. And it's pretty firm, whether you're pushing with your hand or your foot.
It may be closer to 2 inches that 2-1/2. I was pushing with my foot and trying to hold a tape measure and reading it down there was difficult. And cscobra brings up a good point that after the surface is scuffed off the pads and the pistons are in their normal position that free play should further decrease.

Thanks

patrickt 08-22-2013 07:45 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC (Post 1258789)
It may be closer to 2 inches that 2-1/2. I was pushing with my foot and trying to hold a tape measure and reading it down there was difficult. And cscobra brings up a good point that after the surface is scuffed off the pads and the pistons are in their normal position that free play should further decrease.

Thanks
Yeah, I wouldn't dwell on a lot of this stuff until you've put 500 "soft" miles on the car. And I think that's important, that the first 500 miles be relatively gentle so everything has a chance to mate, or break off, gently.

cscobra 08-26-2013 05:24 PM
Patrickt's right about that.

In addition to following that suggestion, I did oil & filter changes at 200 and 500 miles; I plan another at 1000. I checked every nut and bolt on the car at those times, too, and rechecked 4-wheel alignment at 500 miles (all was well) before setting the ride height correctly (the springs should have settled enough by then!).

So far, so good!


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