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Lower Control Arm Bushings
Bob , and/or any ERA owner .... late chassis # 757 . Been hearing a groaning sound from the front end recently so went under the car this evening and the lower control arm bushing on the passenger side , front is coming apart or at least the shoulder on that bushing has come off . The driver side is starting to do the same . About 5000 miles on the car .
Can`t find a current part number in the ERA manual for those bushings .... anyone have a number and possibly a local source for them ? Is there a heavier duty one out there as I do track the car several times a year . Is there one grease out there that is better than the others in lasting for when I replace the bushings ? Thanks |
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Bill S. |
Bill , page 151 in my manual shows how to adjust the brake bias and add fluids . My manual is about 5 years old .... maybe yours is newer ???
I`ll look on the ERA website and see if there is anything there . Bob |
For tracking the car
Bobcat If you are looking for tracking the car alot, goto poly bushing. I have them on my car. Just suspension sells them if they are still in bussiness. All you need to the correct size for shaft and bushing hole in the arm. You will need to grease them after every event or guessing about 500 miles. You can drill a grease fitting into the bush mount in the middle and depending on which bushing you get, some are split designed and others are solid. I used a dremmel tool and added a 1/16" channel in a twist from end to end for the grease to fill the opening and lube the complete pivot point. The bushing has a solid sleeve in the middle and drilled a hole through it. when all is done you should see grease coming out both ends. Need a good grease gun or may have to go with air assist. To install and remove bushing, get a ball joint press. Pop in and out. Side note, FREEZE bushing over night and helps get them installed easier with a thin coat of grease. I use Lucas high temp heavy grease, works good and stay in place. Still running the same bushing for the last 14 years. ERA doesn't recomend the hard plastic ones for the street. Talked about this with Pete and Doug. Good Luck Rick L.
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Bill S. |
For those with chassis before 731, download the manual for the latest chassis if you need part numbers. Editing and compiling earlier manual versions to change a single item absorbs too much of my time, considering the marginal utility.
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Those lower Jag bushings do not take grease..........they are pinched in place at ride height by tightening the big bolt.....
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Poly bushings are harder (of course) than rubber. But, they also require more maintenance. At least once a year you'll need to take them apart and grease them. I'v had the best luck with Mobile 1 synthetic grease.
But, if you want the best performance, cut the bushings off and use a rod end. When I did that, I was amazed at the improvement in ride quality on the street. I don't know why more people don't do this. http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...lAArms_067.jpg http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...lAArms_078.jpg |
Guys ... thanks for the replies and suggestions .
Bob , I really like your idea about using spherical rod ends on the control arms , with ( I assume ) spacers to fill out the mounting bracket . Looks like I have another Winter project . Also looking at changing master cylinders sizes ( after calculations and input from my buddy at Roush Racing ) to match more closely the brake calipers for track usage . The projects never end ... finally got the carb tuned to the merged collectors I had made earlier and installed ..... major hp and torque increase .... and now you give me another project :D . Just curious , did you make a jig/fixture for the conversion ?? |
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Not really. Since I was just going to weld them on straight, it didn't really need a jig. I just needed to be sure they would end up at the same distance. Using simple threaded rod of the correct diameter, it was fairly easy to get them square and get the right distance. http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...lAArms_074.jpg After that, I mounted them up, and used plumb bobs to make sure they were exactly equal. As adjustments go, it was fairly tedious and time consuming. Mostly, I think, because I had to make it up as I went. |
Bob .... looking at your pictures gave me an idea , maybe not a good one , but an idea .
They make the spherical rod eyes/bearings in various O.D.`s . To keep the adjustment playing/procedure to a minimum , wonder how it would work of you pressed two bearings in each end of the existing bushing support tubes ( or maybe one bushing and a thrust washer on each side of the tube . Your lengths and hopefully alignment wouldn`t have changed and it would accomplish the same thing ???? My lower arms are square tubing and already powder coated and this would minimize the cutting and welding . What are your thoughts on that ? Bob |
Yes, if you could find a spherical bearing of the proper size, you could install them and some spacers to get the same effect.
For example, here's a company that can supply spherical bearings for all suspension joints on a Miata. The picture shows tubular components, but they will also do the same thing for stock components. Miata Rear Tubular Chromoly Control Arms set - $800.00 : Weekend-Racer - Auto Racing Safety Equipment, Auto Racing Gear, Auto Racing Helmets, Auto Racing Suits, We're amateur racers just like you. The advantage to rod ends is their adjustability. You can easily put the ball joint anywhere you want. I can get 8* of caster without running out of threaded rod in the upper control arms. |
You would need some way to "capture" a spherical bearing in the tube. i.e. internal clirclip grooves. The original bushings also take in-line thrust loads.
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Bob - Thanks for posting that. Did you fabricate the adapters or purchase them? I was getting ready to order Delrin to turn a set of bushings, but after seeing yours I think we will cut off the ends and install rod ends. Very nice.
chr |
I purchased everything over the web.
Here's the short shopping list: Rod end: QA1, 5/8" x 3/4", misalign angle 26*, 23,000# static load. QA1 Precision Products PCMR10-12T - QA1 PCM Series Rod Ends - Overview - SummitRacing.com Jam nut https://www.summitracing.com/myaccou...210&ON=1388217 Weld on tube end, 3/4" FK Rod Ends 2808 - FK Weldable Tube Ends - Overview - SummitRacing.com From Speedy Metals - 1"OD x 0.125" tubing Total was about $125. |
Bob - what did you use for spacers?
x-chr |
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