| ERA2076 |
10-30-2013 12:59 PM |
Installing a Race Screen
We are rewiring my car and have the dash out of it. I purchased a race screen from Nick at Acton. I want to make the screen removable from the top, such that the two screens could be easily be switched.
Has anyone done this on an ERA? We are thinking of some kind of flange permanently attached to the bottom of cowl with sleeves and nuts attached to the flange. The sleeves would act as crush sleeves to protect the glass.
Is there an easier way? Are there any suitable fasteners that would be trusted inserted directly into the glass?
x-cliff
|
| ERA Chas |
10-30-2013 01:30 PM |
Can't picture exactly what you want but ERA's have a 'double wall' construction under the cowl. It's not just a thin layer of glass across the cowl.
|
| mickmate |
10-30-2013 02:39 PM |
I have seen these used. Some guys have painted them and then painted small screw in plugs so you can barely see them when they aren't in use.
McMaster-Carr
I have install tools for them if you decide that's the way you want to go.
|
| ERA2076 |
10-30-2013 03:09 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA Chas
(Post 1269957)
Can't picture exactly what you want but ERA's have a 'double wall' construction under the cowl. It's not just a thin layer of glass across the cowl.
|
Yes - I was thinking of using tubular sleeves that extend all the way thru both walls to keep from crushing anything. They would be welded to a metal flange and the metal flange would be screwed or bonded to the bottom wall of the cowl. The sleeves would extend up thru the voided area to the top surface of the cowl. Drop screws down thru the sleeves and thread into nuts that were welded to the bottom of the sleeve.
I like the serts Nick posted. Much, much, easier, but I am concerned about robustness. Anyone have any direct experience using them in glass?
chr
|
| Kramer |
10-30-2013 03:55 PM |
I have this exact setup. PM if you want and I can give you details on how mine is set up. The short story is ERA had placed in small rivet like holes with internal threads so I could just bolt in when I run the windscreen ... Went its off all you see the the threaded rivets which look ok even when my normal windshield is on
|
| ERA Chas |
10-30-2013 04:50 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA2076
(Post 1269969)
I like the serts Nick posted. Much, much, easier, but I am concerned about robustness. Anyone have any direct experience using them in glass?
chr
|
Lot of work to do your sleeves but should work. Those steel serts are plenty strong but can be a b!tch to compress-the glass is very thick there IIRC.
Jus sayin'...
|
| strictlypersonl |
10-31-2013 06:43 AM |
I would rather use this design and countersink from the outside so that the inserts are flush to the outside surface.
McMaster-Carr
|
| mickmate |
10-31-2013 07:17 AM |
|
| DanEC |
10-31-2013 11:31 AM |
Mickmate - I know I could not quite get the nuts to engage on the threads of the windshield washer nozzles that mount on the cowl of mine if that gives you an idea. I had to grind a little fiberglass away underneath to get a couple threads to catch.
|
| ERA2076 |
10-31-2013 12:32 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by mickmate
(Post 1270064)
How thick do you think the body is there Bob?
|
Drum Roll.............................................. ......??????????????????
Quote:
Originally Posted by mickmate
(Post 1270064)
I have added a video at the bottom of the windshield showing an installation of one.
|
nice - it looks more secure than I imagined - x
I'll check the thickness (thanks Dan - the dash is out I'll pull a wiper spindle)
Anyone know if the cowl of some constant nominal thickness?
|
| ERA2076 |
10-31-2013 12:36 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kramer
(Post 1269974)
I have this exact setup. PM if you want and I can give you details on how mine is set up. The short story is ERA had placed in small rivet like holes with internal threads so I could just bolt in when I run the windscreen ... Went its off all you see the the threaded rivets which look ok even when my normal windshield is on
|
Thanks Kramer - the holes don't bother me when it is off.
PM Sent
|
| mickmate |
10-31-2013 03:02 PM |
|
| ERA2076 |
10-31-2013 03:18 PM |
Measuring thru the defrost vents
Cowl Thickness
Drivers .287
Passenger .330
|
| mickmate |
10-31-2013 03:41 PM |
Can you get to the back of the holes to countersink them a tad? I think those 130-225 grip range will work good with the 10-32's.
|
| ERA Chas |
10-31-2013 03:49 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA2076
(Post 1270134)
Measuring thru the defrost vents
Cowl Thickness
Drivers .287
Passenger .330
|
Yeah-That's what I remember, not consistent.
|
| ERA2076 |
10-31-2013 04:33 PM |
Locking Rivet Nut
Is aluminum a worry - we like the wedges under the flange. We would look at counter boring so top was flush.
http://images1.mcmaster.com/Contents...ng?ver=1880296
Quote:
Wedges under the flange hold installed nuts tight, so they won't move when you apply torque to a screw. Install them in a drilled hole with an air-powered tool (required, see 92894A700 and 94675A111). Made from aluminum. Thread class is 2B.
Thread 1/4"-20
Drill Size 25/64"
Material Thickness 0.165"-0.260"
Body
Diameter 0.390"
Length 0.680"
Flange
Diameter 0.500"
Thickness 0.030"
Maximum Installed Length 0.380"
|
http://images1.mcmaster.com/Contents...g?ver=19818995
McMaster-Carr
|
| ERA2076 |
10-31-2013 04:35 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by mickmate
(Post 1270138)
Can you get to the back of the holes to countersink them a tad? I think those 130-225 grip range will work good with the 10-32's.
|
Possibly - some of it appears double walled so a bit of a project.
|
| DanEC |
10-31-2013 04:55 PM |
Hand laid fiberglass. Probably have to allow +/- 1/16 inch in most circumstances. %/
|
| ERA2076 |
10-31-2013 05:29 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC
(Post 1270154)
Hand laid fiberglass. Probably have to allow +/- 1/16 inch in most circumstances. %/
|
Yea I see that - maybe we we have to go under the bottom to get everything to fit.
Bore (counter sink) from top for sert flange thickness and then adjust total thickness from the bottom
Still - more straight forward than my original plan.................... maybe.
the joy :)
|
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 08:54 AM. |
|
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: