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Transmission
Have a question to you all? Going to run the TKO600 with the upgraded Synchros per Liberty High Performance or Sure Shift up-grade by Lykins Motorsports. Question is which of the two companies is a better choice?
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I got mine from Brent. Works fine. I don't think he does that upgrade himself but you should ask him. He'll give you a straight answer.
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Ok, the latest. Went to machine shop to start the engine build. 5.0 stroked to 331. Should receive the short block in mid January. Started laying down the floor panels. Should have foot boxes in this weekend. Hope to have the engine in by March.
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Looking good Phil. Any more details on the engine other than it will be stroked to 331?
Cheers, Glen |
I've used that slave cylinder from Modern Driveline for 2 summers, now, and all is well thus far.
Great looking car! |
Thanks, was looking at MDL slave cylinder. On the 331. Eagle stroker kit, 11:1 compression, Hyd Roller Lunati cam @.050 241/249 with .600/.600 lift LSA 110. AFR Renegade street/strip head 58cc 2.02/1.60 valves. want to run webers but going to run a Holley 4bbl with a Torker manifold for a year then buy the Weber set up.
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Its been awhile since last post. Foot boxes are in ,pedals are in, oil cooler and radiator and panels in, front wheel well panels in. Block still in shop hope to have it soon, change of plans on heads. Going with the Vic Jr heads, better bang for the buck.. was gonna go with AFR185... Question to you all? Wheather seal on wheel wells, do you coat the rubber part. I know it says it in the book to use a RTV or undercoat on it.. If any of you have pics like to see what and how much to cover them.
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I used automotive PUR seam sealer. Goes on with a brush.
Chose that for rigidity however you have stiffer frame. I would go natural. No cover up ....., |
I used a Marine grade, black sealer/adhesive (in tubes) I found a West Marine to seal the laps/joints in all of my aluminum panels. When everything was in, I then ran a bead of it between the rubber bulb seal and the body from the well well side. I think I may have run a bead on both sides in the trunk. The results were neat and being an adhesive as well as a sealer, it sticks like glue. I would not want to ever try to separate the panels again however. I undercoated my panels so it's kind of hard to see in this photo.
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_1723.jpg You might want to put in your side louvers before the rest of the wheel housing sheet metal. The little screws are kind of a pain to get back in and tightened. The car is looking good. :) |
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Yes I put them in already, and they where a pain in the ass.... nothing a good beer after would not fix.. Here are some pics from today....
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Have a line that I cant remember where it goes. Looked at all my foto I took before I removed everything , but this one did not make it in the foto shot for some reason. Anyone know where this goes????
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I had a bag of strange tubes with mine and couldn't figure out what they were for, for about 6 months. I had ordered the Girling separate reservoirs and finally I realized they were the various lines stubbing out of the cans. Just remembered that you finished your chassis yourself - didn't you? Is that the brake cross over line at the rear between rubber hoses to the calipers I can see the front one in your pictures. |
The hard line goes from the outside (front) master cylinder to the "T" on the left chassis stud.
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Thank you.... Was wondering where it went....
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Thank you for posting your progression!
Was the white on the firewall front plastic to protect the panel on the photo a few images up? |
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I think this is correct. I have the unit with brake switch near fame.
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Here are the pics.
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Phil, you slacker! Don't you realize there are plenty out here waiting for your updates on ERA2152? ;)
Please post more pictures and more information on 2152's build :D Cheers, Glen |
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