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baer brakes
Bob I own 427 car 577 and want to ugrade the brakes. In the manual it talks about modifications being done to the steering knuckle. Is this something I can do or do I need to send them to you. Also what fixed caliper do you recommend and is there anything avalible for the jag rearend. I have 15 inch trigo wheels if that makes any differance.
Thank You, Jeff Neely |
The modification for the front brakes is easy....just remove the spindles (up rites) and cut off the existing brake mount points, using a hack saw or band saw....finish off with a grinder. Also drill out the backing plate holes and retap...no big deal. The rear is a bit more difficult...need to turn down some parts in a lath...but not hard. I developed this package with ERA several years ago and used my 427 as a test donkey. 12" rotors front and rear and Wilwood calipers make the car stop better when racing...but do little on the street but lighten your back pocket. If you are just driving the car on the street there is no reason other than "I just want to" (some times the best reason). For racing make sure and add braided lines and cooling ducts front and rear. The front should go to both the center of the rotor and caliper. The rear can be from under the car or from the cockpit as on "a427sc's car....but that's almost as ughly as Cheeks himself, but does work better. Without ducts...you can still fade the brakes after a few hot laps.
Hope this helps |
Thank you
McUgly |
Murt:
What the heck you all talk'n about? Why Cheeks done lost a pile a weight and looks good... not like that ol dog you know. Why he's had to lighten up on the ballast on the right side of Ol 99 to compensate. Morty MacTavish |
Jeff,
I'll send you a template if you want to do the modifications yourself. |
template
Bob, if you could do that I would appreciate it. I am on file in your records under Jeff Neely or my car number (577). Also if you could help me with the rear brake mods, as that sounds out of my leage, because I don't have a lathe. Thank you so much and I am shure I will call and talk to you about it.
Thanks again, Jeff Neely |
Thanks
Murt, Thanks for the info. I mostly am a street driver now but I have plans.
Thanks, Jeff Neely |
Ballast....ya mean that's Y the old boat anchor mobile is soooo slow? Well now that the cheeks are thinner maybe he can keep up with all the little cars without pollouting the ozone with tons of hydrocarbons and miscellaneous small anchor chain parts.
Jeff...the rear is not complicated....just drop it out....unbolt the half shafts at the pumkin....remove the bolts (5 i think) agound the flange behind the halfshaft flange and pull out the stub axles. Disassemble the stub axle keeping track of the order of all parts.....take the casting to a machine shop and machine off the boss where the old brake caliper mounted to a nice smooth serface all the way around....should take a bout 10 minutes apiece at a shop.....or send me the castings....I'll buzz them out for you. Or con Morty out of his....he doesn't use brakes....might scar the rotor or leave dust. He just uses a 2 x 4 block behind the wheel when pushing the car in and out of the trailer. Normally one would not have to rest during this task....but Morty has a long trailer. Any scarring or brake dust came from Bob's pizza runs down the street. |
Murt I don't quite understand I need more info. If you can help me with the the process I will gladly pay you tuesday. My e-mail is jeffneely@msn.com. Please help me in any way you can.
Thany you so much. Jeff Neely. |
Jeff...
I'll try to be a bit clearer. The 12" rear brakes mount in the same place as the current inner Jag. brakes. The calipers Wilwood calipers mount on the back side of the Pumpkin...180 degrees from the Jag. calipers. You disassemble everything down to the existing Jag rotors. Remove the Jag. calipers. Once you slide off the old rotors you will see the end of the stub axle with the 4 bolts sticking out. Behind the flange with the 4 bolts you will see other bolt heads that hold the stub axle flange to the main pumpkin. The existing Jag calipers mounted to this flange. Remove the 5 or 6 bolts and the stub axle just pull out. There may be shims behind the flange. Dont loose or mix these up with the opposite side. Do the same thing with the opposite side. On the Pumpkin side of the stub axle you will see a BIG nut. Bend the keepers out of the way and remove the nut from the axle....everything should come apart now...flange....bearings....axle. On the flange you will see 2 places where the Jag caliper mounted that are raised....these must go. That's what gets cut off in a lath. Reinstall with Bob's kit....Caliper...Caliper bracket...new lines...rotor and hat....bleed the brakes....your good to go. Send me the flanges...I'll cut them...no charge |
On the rear:
Does the ERA use Jag like lower control arms? Does the 12" rotor clear the arms (fit between the lower legs)? Is the 12" rotor vented? On the front: Does the ERA use Jag uprights or is it a custom piece? Thanks |
Our 12" rear conversion requires some modifications to the Jag lower control arm for clearance. Also, for our system, we must modify the bearing housing to fit a bridge to the Wilwood caliper. It gets fairly complicated.
As a compromise, consider doing the conversion to vented 10.5" rotors with modified Girling calipers. CCX, We use a modified GM upright, not the Jag piece. |
...the Girling 10.5" setup is available from CW (I think) in California. I'll have to look back in the huge pile of receipts that I have here to be certain. The modification to the caliper is simply a spacer block with longer bolts and longer brake caliper lines.
Leave the reengineering to Murt (course his Uncle Scut Farcus never used much brake at all... if he had to stop he just used the wall). Mort MacTavish |
I've found that most Porcha's have very good brakes....the 930 turbo's specially. If you get right us behind them going into a corner there is hardley any bump at all when they hit the brakes. Trick is the seperation manuver coming out of the corner.
Murt... Uncle Scut also used small animuals on the side of the road to slow down.....I think Cheeks has taken up this braking technique. |
I learned from the best.
Too bad I forgot most of it. But if you have a motor big enough, you can fake it. Cheeks |
Murt:
Now now, let's not be too hard on ol' Cheeks... he at least is willing to get out there and thrash (which I am not... at least not* in my Scutt Farcus special): http://www.erareplicas.com/cars/dondurner.htm raccoon special brakes or not... Mort MacTavish *Maybe someday in the Kress replica GT350... at the back of the pack. |
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