What options "cannot" be retrofit - or at least not with ease
 

What are the options that would be most difficult, not to say impossible to retrofit if they are not ordered with the standard assembly?

Assuming the local DMV will accept a partially bonded body (no panels done), what other than having ERA powder coat the chassis are must-haves on the initial kit delivery?

Heater, defroster, oil-cooler, any electrical should-haves etc are things I´m thinking about.

Yes, shipping will be heavy for a few items on the option list (rear end) but I´d rather tinker a year or two in the garage with the base kit and what gets ordered on the way, than not starting at all ;)

I'll point out that an advantage of ordering options with the car is that when the car arrives they will have already been pre-fit and installed by ERA with some exceptions (fabric top, outside mirror, seat belts, etc). But to answer your question:

At the time you order you need to have the engine and transmission pinned down so they can determine the correct mounts, headers, speedometer cable, & driveshaft to send. If you think you may need it, order the upgraded cooling fan initially to save the expense of the standard one. Five or six pin wheels needs to be settled up front as well as any brake upgrades from the standard package. If you are seeking any seat modifications such as trimming the thickness of the bottom cushion to sit lower, that needs to be addressed when ordering. If you want the Smith gages I would order them initially as you will otherwise have the S&W gages as excess. If you want a trunk mounted battery I would order that up front.

The heater and defroster and oil cooler should not be a problem to add later but I would ask ERA to pre-drill the holes for the heater pipes. The wiring harness is pretty much set up to handle all the electrical options but if you plan to add a remotely mounted MSD box in the glove box or something, I would discuss that with them.

I'm sure to be missing a couple items that others will pick up on.

Thanks. Very good point on the gauges, upgraded cooling fans and seat cushion. I´m 5´11 with only 30" inseam. Ie, I have a very long torso. Do I need the thinner seat cushion?

There are no brakes or brake parts in the standard delivery, so I think I´ll be good there, the same with the rear which will be a complete ERA outboard braked unit.

Are there big visual differences between the Smiths and SW´s? Are the Smiths all mechanical or have they released an electrical version?

What I do know is 289, Toploader, Six-pins, comp brakes front and ERA rear, oil cooler, probably a heater (she's cold) and hidden 12V outtakes.

Hard to tell on the seats it's so individual and you do seem to be pretty long in the torso. I'm about 6'2" with 34" inseam and my seat foam was shaved and I'm not using seat tracks. I sit just right in the car - looking through the windshield rather than over. The leg room is pretty good in the car so between slouching down just a little and raking the seat back some there is quite a bit of individual tweaking that can be done.

You are right on the brakes.

I think you will be OK on the 12V outlet. My car is a street car with a cigerette lighter (I've never smoked). I think the dash harness of all cars has the wiring for it (but confirm with ERA). You can rig up an outlet hidden under the dash. If you need another one somewhere, you would probably need to speak with ERA about including it.

The SW gages look vintage - but they do look a bit different. I'm not sure if they are all mechanical or electrical - best to ask ERA/Peter. I think some of the 289 cars used SW gages originally.

Hope this helps a little.

I went with a ‘street’ oriented ERA FIA, some suggestions …

- Have ERA install the heater. It provides a bit of warmth especially when driving around town, but pretty much useless on the freeway. Does not really heat all that well, just takes the edge off a bit but worth having in my opinion.

- Battery Cutoff Switch - If you are going with the battery in the RR fender, ERA can mount a battery cut off switch in the bulk head behind the passenger seat.

- I have the SW gauges. The water temp, oil temp, oil pressure and speedo are mechanical. The tach, fuel and amp gauges are electric.

- I am 6’-4” and went with the 427 street seats in leather. I had them made with a bit less foam than standard and I fit reasonably well. I did use the seat tracks, so family and friends can drive the car, would estimate it raises the seat about an inch. ERA did make a custom FIA dash for me that is a bit ‘shorter’, so I could have a bit more room. That is one advantage of going with ERA or any other custom builder, they can make little tweaks here and there to help you fit.

- I would recommend having Connecticut Custom do the body work and paint on your car. They have done a lot of ERAs and they do a first rate job.

Best of luck with your project, and keep us posted!

- Tim

Simple. If it attaches to the frame and penetrates the skin, better get it done at time of manufacture (e.g., passenger roll bar). If it attaches to the "floating" part of the structure (engine, suspension) go for it.

The heater is not that hard to install by yourself, with a friend or two, after you start building the car. It does help to have the heater holes pre-cut. What becomes more difficult is to retrofit a heater after the car has been completed. It can be done, see my thread and pictures, but it is not easy. :eek: I did it in a weekend.

If using a 289 motor you probably don't need the higher capacity cooling fan. ERA provides a good sized radiator and the standard fan would probably work fine unless you have some really hot weather.

Twoshelbys brings up a good example about the roll bar. if my car is typical, it included the mounts for the driver side roll bar, although I ordered a street roadster without the rollbar. If you may want a passenger side bar then that needs to be fabricated in at their shop.

Roll bar and gas tank type & size. Once these are set they are hard to change. If the car is to be used on a track or just as a driver... these two items need some extra attention to details.

Also...for ERA... go with there steering setup they offer... both rack and column. It's the best setup for their cars.

The plan is getting all the options from ERA, but just spread out over time during the build (if I´m realistic - probably 2-3 years of build time) when the items are next in the build manual.

Its a race car replica, so for me - it will be a bit about keeping it a race car replica, not a street car looking like a race car. It will also be used on trackdays and local autocross events.

Is the standard issue fuel tank not usable for track days? I understand it might not be legal for actual racing as licensing the car requires a foam filled race tank etc, but over here - all required to do a track day are license plates on the car.

If the standard fans have any chance of not being up to it on the track for 90-100 degrees - it will get uprated fans.

The standard 19 gallon tank will do fine for what you want. Plus, it helps to balance the car better (at least in my case).

The bigger fan is only a benefit when the car is not moving, or crawling along at 20 MPH or less.