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Removing side pipes
I have an early ERA 427 SC with a 428 FE big block and sidepipes.
My ears (and other internal organs) are telling me it's time to replace the sidepipes with quieter ones. Fortunately, the police have yet to "advise me" of the need. My problem? Removing the sidepipes from the "slip fittings" on the individual cylinder pipes. (Why they call them "slip" fittings escapes me...) Yep.... I have the retaining bolts removed from the slip joints. I've tried the loosen-the-sidepipes-and-give-them-some-hard-tugs approach. No luck. I've also sprayed WD40 into the slip joints, let the FE idle (until I was getting smoke from the WD40, and tied the hard tugs again--this time, with the help of a rubber mallet. Still no luck. Anyone have a good Plan B, or C or D? Thanks |
I can't help a lot since I have undercar exhaust but I do have the slip joint headers. One suggestion is to use something other than W-40. I would use a good, non-evaporating, penetrating oil like PB Blaster or something. After that about all I know to do is tug, rotate and lever them around until they break loose and start to work their way apart. Rap them with a rubber mallet if you can get an angle on it. But I know you are kind of restricted by the clearance to the body opening as far as working them.
Maybe some of the side pipe guys will have some other ideas. |
If they were sealed up with the Walker Acousti-Seal stuff, that ERA recommends and use themselves, then it tends to "bake together" a bit. Epoxy it's not, but you will have to whack it with a soft, dead-blow hammer, and it will come apart.
This is the stuff I'm talking about, and it's great stuff too. https://www.amazon.com/Walker-35959-.../dp/B000CQDL94 |
I've had my sidepipes off a few times for various reasons and I use the Walker Acousti-Seal that Patrick mentioned. In addition to the dead blow hammer, wiggling them around and striking with the hammer while putting a bit of force in different directions will eventually break them loose. Consider it a workout...
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I had made the joints tighter to seal a percieved air leak causing a lean backfire on closed throttle deceleration. I used an aircraft tubing beader and the Accustiseal.
Sometime later, I needed to remove that sidepipe. It wouldn't budge ! In desperation I disconnected the rear mount and gently using the pipe as a lever, moved it up & down, in & out, and that broke the slip join free. |
It's been over 10 years ago that I had to pull the pipes on my former ERA, and I do remember it being a pain. The key is to find a way to provide constant downward pressure while hitting them with a soft mallet. If you can find a way to provide some substantial vibration to them while applying the downward pressure, they should come off even easier. Maybe an air chisel without the bit in it or something like that. Al those tiny movements add up in no time.
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I had slip-on sidepipes on my early Backdraft build that also proved difficult to remove. I attached one end of hand-crank come-alongs to the sidepipe near the 90-degree bend and the other end to a fixed stud in my garage. I delicately tightened the come-alongs while tapping the side-pipe with a rubber hammer. The side-pipe came right off. Phil
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I have had my slip joint pipes on and off several times. Major key is to give yourself wiggle flexibility by releasing the pipe to frame attachment. Doing it solo I position a floor jack to lightly support the pipe near the frame attach area, so that it will roll in and out as you " wiggle ". The come-along approach sounds very doable with a gentile touch.
Re-installation can be more difficult than removal ( especially solo ). Cheers |
Thanks for the comments guys. I'm officially calling the "nearby stud" my Plan C, to try later today. If I break anything, I'll let you'all know....!
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Quote:
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/clas...ml#post1403036 http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/clas...ml#post1409704 |
Cycleguy....
Probably going to go with this company: Classic Chambered Exhaust Inc. - Cobra I've used them before on other builds, and I really like their product..... |
The four runners on each side of my side pipes are connected using sheet metal bands. I had to cut two of those bands on each side to relieve the residual stresses caused by repeated heatups and cooldowns. The pipes relaxed and slipped off the headers easily after doing that.
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It also helps if you loosen the headers at the block so each of the individual header pipes can move independently of the others.
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