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-   ERA---Speak with Bob Putnam (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/era-speak-bob-putnam/)
-   -   Starting issue (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/era-speak-bob-putnam/141602-starting-issue.html)

patrickt 10-26-2018 07:42 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by davids2toys (Post 1453232)
Are suggesting I take the wires out of the plastic holders and solder them together where you won't be able to break them apart for trouble shooting or anything else?
Yes, I generally do that unless the circuit requires disconnecting/connecting on a common basis. It's just too easy to cut the wires when you need to, then solder and shrink wrap them back. You never have to worry about a "jiggly" connector or a connection that is prone to unnecessary resistance when it's just a straight soldered connection.

davids2toys 10-26-2018 10:13 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt (Post 1453233)
Yes, I generally do that unless the circuit requires disconnecting/connecting on a common basis. It's just too easy to cut the wires when you need to, then solder and shrink wrap them back. You never have to worry about a "jiggly" connector or a connection that is prone to unnecessary resistance when it's just a straight soldered connection.
I do see your point but soldering and electrical is not a natural for me. I think I will just make sure the connection is clean, tight, and loaded with dielectric grease. I really should practice soldering, I have all the stuff to do it.

Gaz64 10-29-2018 11:13 PM
Are we running yet David? :)

Gaz64 10-30-2018 03:16 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt (Post 1453233)
Yes, I generally do that unless the circuit requires disconnecting/connecting on a common basis. It's just too easy to cut the wires when you need to, then solder and shrink wrap them back. You never have to worry about a "jiggly" connector or a connection that is prone to unnecessary resistance when it's just a straight soldered connection.
Yes that little connector is the most common issue for failure in MSD.
Rubbish pins.

I would replace them with gold plated pins (Male & Female), and run a shielded harness.

patrickt 10-30-2018 06:00 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaz64 (Post 1453341)
Are we running yet David? :)
No, instead of finishing the job he hopped on the Love Boat for a luxury cruise through the Caribbean. He'll come back ten pounds heavier, dazed and groggy. We'll have to inspect his final repairs carefully.:cool:

davids2toys 10-31-2018 04:26 PM
Yes, I am on the Loveboat in Mt Washington Valley, NH...LOL
I have killer spark now and will button it up when I get home.
Thanks again for the expertise!!!
Dave

davids2toys 11-05-2018 03:57 PM
I am back from the love-boat!
I cant figure out how that Anti strain funnel gets installed correctly. Going in from the top it will not sit down into the recess. I just got off the phone with MSD tech and he started talking about a special tool but I should be able to get it with needle-nose pliers. He said you go in from the top, both wires installed and little trap door installed. I guess you then just squeeze the whole mess together and try to force it in...GEEZ!

patrickt 11-05-2018 04:02 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by davids2toys (Post 1453574)
I am back from the love-boat!
I cant figure out how that Anti strain funnel gets installed correctly. Going in from the top it will not sit down into the recess. I just got off the phone with MSD tech and he started talking about a special tool but I should be able to get it with needle-nose pliers. He said you go in from the top, both wires installed and little trap door installed. I guess you then just squeeze the whole mess together and try to force it in...GEEZ!
And if you don't install that little anti-strain plastic thing correctly, or if you just wrap your wires up real good with electrical tape thinking that will be just as good, then your engine will explode the first time you rev it past four grand.:cool:

davids2toys 11-05-2018 08:36 PM
Yeah, and it wont look pretty either when it blows :>)))

davids2toys 11-07-2018 08:10 PM
Well it is back together and it won't blow at 4K because I finally got the POS anti strain gizmo back in. The techs were telling the wrong way to install it. You have to come in from the bottom with all wires in place and locking trap door squeezed together with a needle-nose. she is running like a champ! I think this may have been going bad for awhile and finally just quit. The car is running better than it was for sure. Feels a lot more aggressive and pulls better. Also, the little stumble while just cruising and then suddenly giving it gas is gone. Is this possible? I thought MSD ignitions are working or not working, no in between.
I also used a product called "deoxit 5" on all the contacts on the rotor, inside the cap terminals, MSD pigtail connections. I even put (4) 1/4" holes 90 deg apart in the cap for ionization. Now to get that broken water temp gauge out!

FWB 11-08-2018 12:01 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by davids2toys (Post 1453662)
Well it is back together and it won't blow at 4K because I finally got the POS anti strain gizmo back in. The techs were telling the wrong way to install it. You have to come in from the bottom with all wires in place and locking trap door squeezed together with a needle-nose. she is running like a champ! I think this may have been going bad for awhile and finally just quit. The car is running better than it was for sure. Feels a lot more aggressive and pulls better. Also, the little stumble while just cruising and then suddenly giving it gas is gone. Is this possible? I thought MSD ignitions are working or not working, no in between.
I also used a product called "deoxit 5" on all the contacts on the rotor, inside the cap terminals, MSD pigtail connections. I even put (4) 1/4" holes 90 deg apart in the cap for ionization. Now to get that broken water temp gauge out!

i don't really care what everyone does...really, but just think about what MSD recommends,......drilling holes in a cap. to prevent ozone from corroding the contacts..........i guess its the special something with MSD.
why does my duraspark distributor not need the holes? (with the small cap)
using the MSD box. i get a couple years out of a cap.

you are going back to model T days, if you drive in a humid area you will have to wipe the inside of your dizzy cap because you will be on the side of the road.


i know some will make excuses on why this is ok with them, MSD is the almighty and all......i think their caps are junk, their ford distributors are too tall, they look like monstrosities.
ok, i'm done.....just think about it...

davids2toys 11-08-2018 06:45 AM
The third tech I talked to was very helpful and gave me the correct way to install the anti strain. He said it is a piece of cake with the dizzy out and a the bench, and still installed much harder. As far as the holes he said it is necessary for cars that are driven like our cobras, short time and then a lot of sitting. It is for ionization and he explained it more detail than I care to understand. If I run into what you describe I will carry an extra cap and change caps once a year. It is worth a shot and see what happens

davids2toys 11-09-2018 02:41 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kit Coyle (Post 1453024)
Buy a Lucas bezel removal tool. I bought one from Moss Motors, Ltd.
TOOL SET, SWITCH BEZEL REMOVAL...part#384-960...$29.99...on sale for
$21.99.
Cool tool, I decided to order it, I'm sure I will need it one day.
Thanks


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