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Brake problems
Well I had both front calipers gone through and rebuilt. No real issues found I guess now it's just peace of mind. My whole braking system is now rebuilt so if i don't have more braking now it's the way God want's it. I can't take it out since there is 2 ft of snow in my yard so I guess I'll have to wait for better weather. Thanks to everyone for their input on this matter.
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I had a car that was built 20 years prior to me owning it. We determined that the rear brakes were never working since new, because they were never properly bled. There was NO wear on the rotors and the pads were like new still. After replacing the hoses and front to back line we still couldn't get fluid to easily pump back there until we isolated the rear MC and pumped away at it. That did the trick and then we were able to bleed all the brakes as a system and the rear brakes were working! The key is to loosen the balance bar and bleed each master cylinder separately to make sure they are both pushing clean fluid all the way through and without any air bubbles. Bleed the clutch while you are at it. Do you have a single reservoir or 3 individual cans? Troy |
I have the 3 reservoir cans. The calipers were cleaned and gone through as stated in my post. Before we re mounted them the brake shop gave me blocks that were about the thickness of the rotor. The calipers were then bled while off the mounting brackets with the bleeders straight up. We used a electric vacuum pump and pressure bled them multiple times. Also I have speed bleeders on all calipers just to be sure. I'm very confident that there is no air in the lines. After all this work I can't test drive it for a while or until 18" of snow melts in my neighborhood.
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The reservoirs are not the problem. I had one leak completely dry and the brakes still worked fine because the fluid in the line leading from the MC, which has a tiny reservoir of its own, was sufficient to keep air out of the system. They are prone to leaks though.
Classical Gas -- have you reviewed the installation instructions found here: http://www.erareplicas.com/427man/br...conversion.pdf paying particular attention to the .060" centering requirement, shimming, and caliper bleeding eccentricities? |
Brakes
Well the weather finally made a turnaround and I took my car out for a test drive. After all the work previously described not much has changed still poor stopping power. The only thing left is the balance adjustment. I read the assembly operating manual for instructions but it's a bit vague. Can anyone explain the proper way to adjust the brake bias. It's the only thing left that can cause poor braking.
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If you bled your system with the vacuum bleeder and NOT the pedal you do not yet know if your pedal is pumping fluid in proper ratios front/back. Start by making sure fluid is getting to all the calipers by bleeding the old fashioned way with the pedal. Your speed bleeders should allow you to do this without a helper required. Also, see my questions I asked way back on response #8 to this thread. |
Brake problems
[quote=66gtk;1458025]What chassis number is your car? what wheels do you have?
I have owned several ERA cars and they all stop very confidently when properly setup. I suspect many (like a few I've had) are improperly set up. Some are never right from the start. You may think you have all the air out and the balance bar setup, but you may not. Did you also replace all the rubber lines from the reservoir to the MCs? Hard line from front to back as well as front and rear brake hoses? Depending on the age and miles (lack of use) these areas may all need to be addressed. Chassis # 823, 6 pin knock off all new SS braided hoses, new 7/8 master, dot 4 brake fulid, speed bleeders vacume blead and pressure (break pettal) calipers were checked out at a local break clinic rotors turned etc. There isn't, much left. The break pedal is rock hard and oh yes new softer brake pads. |
With that new of a car I would not expect brake line/hose issues. Is this braking issue a NEW problem, or has it been like this since from the start? Did ERA assemble the car, including the brakes?
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Well - I may be completely off base but since I didn't find anything about your prior experience in older, manual brake cars, I wonder if it may be your expectation the ERA will brake like a new car. I have a 66 manual brake Vette and the old GM engineers have said several times over on Corvette Forums that the car has a high level of braking performance, even compared to newer cars, but they were designed in an era when higher pedal pressure was the norm for their engineering departments. In other words - you really have to really stomp on the brakes and when you do they will haul you down. That was how they were designed then. When I picked up my new GT350 Shelby, ever time I barely touched the brake pedal for about a month, it threw me against the seat belt until I got used to them. It's all a matter of pedal ratio, MC size, piston area and power/no power assist. Possibly Bob can weigh in the ERA design.
I may be off-base on this and maybe something is wrong. Sounds like you may need to step down slightly in size on the master cylinder piston diameter and live with a bit longer brake pedal stroke for a bit easier pedal pressure - and hopefully improved response. |
Things I would check:
Make sure that the outer pushrod (to the front master cylinder) is the longer one. De-glaze the pads and the rotors. Break in the pads by repeated hard stops. |
If it was a factory turn-key car my understanding is that they put some shake down miles on these before delivery to make sure everything is working right. I would assume this means testing and breaking in the pads/rotors??? This car was one of the last completed, so I would think it would still be fresh in the minds of those at ERA who did the final assembly and sorting?
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Change the lines front to small master --------
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a couple of necessary tools for solving severe brake issues on race or exotic(sporty) cars are scales and pressure guages----if you don't know the balance issues or line pressures, you might as well just get on the internet!!!!!!!!!!!
AND------if your trying to stop-pushing in the brake pedal will take away several HORSEPOWER ( even at idle) from the energy you are trying to overcome-------and if you happen to have an engine with a high idle speed -------say 12 -1500 rpm?????????? |
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