Will that 215/70 fit within the slabside wheel well?

Damn those things are $350 each.

I don’t know about an ERA but that photo I posted is an original car. I’ve also seen 205’s used though I think the slightly bigger tire looks better.

Yes, they are expensive but with small block cars, you got to pay if you want to play!:D
Larry

I installed 215/70-15 XWX on ERA3014 two weeks ago. They definitely fit in the wheel wells and look great.

The exhaust will be tight. I started the car for the first time last weekend with abbreviated undercar exhaust: I put turndowns immediately aft of the mufflers so I can get the car to an exhaust shop for installation of the over-axle section and associated hangers. So I still may have some difficulty ahead when my exhaust guy tries to do this. But Peter assures me it's been done before with 215s.

Photo: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...NZQWNyY3k0MGRR

215-70R X15's do fit as I have them on my ERA Slabside. They fill the wheel well nicely and with 6X15 Dunlap wheels enhance the handling.







John
ERA #3010 Slabside 289 BRG

how are the Dunlop wheels?

These work as well: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mtt-6023

dacobb,

Very pleased with the Dunlaps. They are holding up well and continue to look good after five years.

John
ERA #3010 Slabside 289 BRG

So...today's topic is the undercar exhaust. Peter sent me a few pics; you can see them in my build album.

Those of you who have done this - where are the tabs welded to the pipe. And did you get the exhaust ceramic coated, if so by whom.

And what is the ground clearance.

It was fairly common on original cars to exit the exhaust in front of the rear wheels on cars equipped with anti-sway bars. Just an FYI.
Larry

My undercar exhaust car is a 427 so not much will apply, but the frame rails are 4 inches deep. On my car, the way the headers and the collector pipe were fabricated I ended up with about 1-1/4" clearance to the floor with a 3" deep muffler. That put the bottom of the muffler about 1/4" to 1/2" below the frame. As you can see in this photo, the diameter or the pipe you use and the out rigger brackets limit how high the mufflers can be sucked up. I probably would not want the muffler any closer to the floor.
https://i125.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7e2e70d4.jpg

https://i125.photobucket.com/albums/...ps21f639b5.jpg

Most mufflers are 4" diameter so the average muffler would be about 1/2" lower than mine and they are pretty visible from the side. If round glass pack type mufflers are used they would be a little less visible under the rocker.

I'm in the midst of dealing with this on 3014. Here's what I've accomplished/learned so far:

1. My kit came with the following parts:

- 2x headers
- 2x J-shaped pipes connecting the header collectors to the muffler inlets
- 2x Dynomax 17762 mufflers with clamps
- 2x J-shaped pipes from muffler outlets to tailpipes
- 2x tailpipes, including the "hump" over the rear axle
- 4x weld-on tabs to connect header collectors to the J-pipes
- 2x weld-on hangers for the pipes aft of the mufflers under the rocker panels
- 2x weld-on hangers for the pipes at the apex of the hump over the rear axle
- 2x weld-on hangers for the tailpipes as they exit to either side of the spare tire well

The frame is already drilled for the first and second hangers. The third hangers (next to spare tire well) need tapped holes; so I called ERA and they supplied a pair of rivet nuts that can be drilled/expanded into the frame tubing at the appropriate spot.


2. I dry-fitted the system on the car and cut the header collectors and J-pipe outlets to get the mufflers to land in the right place. The collector length determines how low the part of the system under the rocker panels sits; and the J-pipe length sets the fore-and-aft position of the muffler. It required a fair amount of cutting of the collectors to get the bottom surfaces of the J-pipes and mufflers roughly flush with the bottom of the frame rails. I don't think the dry-fit photos (linked below) show the system tucked quite as high as I eventually got it. My exhaust isn't significantly lower than frame rails or oil pan at any point.

3. I marked the location of the header tabs on the headers and J-pipes, had them tack-welded at a shop, double-checked the fit at home, and then had them final-welded at the same shop.

4. Since no further welding was needed on everything up to and including the mufflers, I had these parts ceramic coated by Accessories Plus, a local shop.

5. I've installed everything up to the mufflers on the car so it is driveable (muffler outlet wired up).

6. I'm taking the car to a local shop this week to have the following done:

- weld on the hangers under the rockers. These are the first support for the system after the cylinder heads. Dan at ERA says these can screw into either the frame outrigger immediately aft of the mufflers, or the next one back (immediately forward of the wheel well).

- weld the connection between the muffler outlet pipe and the tailpipe. This joint is in the corner of the wheel well; Dan says there is likely not enough space for a clamp and I believe him.

- weld the hanger onto the tailpipe at the apex of the hump over the axle

- weld the hangers onto the tailpipe where it hangs under the frame by the spare tire well. I have not installed the nutserts for these hangers yet since the location isn't set yet. Since the frame rail is running at a downward angle here, a small error in hole location means a large error in fit between the hanger and pipe.

7. If all goes well, I'll remove the back half of the system and have it coated to match the front.

I'll let you know how I make out. The first shop I took it to for this work chickened out.

This photo and the ones following it show my dry-fitting exercise:

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...NZQWNyY3k0MGRR

Bill

thanks fin that's exactly the info I was looking for.

also Dan, I am considering a move to arkansas as a retirement spot (someday)

which towns/cities do you recommend?

And so...to follow up, did anyone get their exhaust ceramic coated.

I've chatted with Jet Hot. They seem to be legit.

I had it done locally. So far just the front half of the system, the rest after welding.

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q..._sZET3HBnK7Jjp

I don't have any experience with Jet Hot. I didn't use them because I've heard turnaround times can be long and I didn't want to pack everything for shipping. But they sound like a reasonable alternative if you don't have a highly-recommended local guy like I did.

I had my headers, collectors and mufflers ceramic coated. I had the tailpipes fabricated locally and I just sprayed them with a heat resistant satin black. But the place I used stop doing customer work shortly afterward and went commercial for manufacturers.

Tough question as Arkansas has a lot of variety and sort of depends on your outdoor interests. One place I wouldn't recommend is Little Rock proper, although the western suburbs are nice (and expensive). Also the communities (Benton & Bryant) south of Little Rock along I30 are popular. North of the river is good, Maumelle, generally the hot spot. If you like golf, Hot Springs Village and the NW part of the state up by Bentonville and Springdale are well known and popular with retirees. The Walmart community pretty much dominates the area. If trout fishing is an interest then around any of the communities near the big lakes on the White River or Little Red River in the northern half of the state are really popular. Bass fishing is just about all over. Hunting is just about the whole state. Best driving roads are probably NW quadrant of the state and down through the Ouachita mountains and Hot Springs area. Fort Smith has a lot of interesting places around it and a lot of history. In general the norther part of the State is known as a retirees magnet. The far eastern part of the State along the Mississippi is delta land and most areas are somewhat depressed and pretty open prairie/farming. Probably leaving some good stuff out.


Good luck.

I have a set of stainless steel exhaust pipes that exit in front of the rear wheels which just came off my 289 Slabside. I felt they were loud. I replaced the pipes and mufflers with a ceramic coated system.

They are available.

John
ERA #3010 289 Slabside BRG

OK I will bite.

I'm considering an ERA slabside. I'm 6'5 so that's one consideration... I know there are ways to accommodate.

I haven't spoken to ERA yet.

I'm pretty comfortable with mechanical and electric work. I've built several engines, manual transmissions, restored a few cars, built a competition car, built up a Jeep. I've got tools, engine stand, cherry picker etc. Don't have a lift but have a friend with one.

Things I won't touch: paint/bodywork, automatic transmissions, crown wheel and pinion setups/shimming.

One question I have is, for those who built a slab side from a kit, care to share your total build cost (including kit, w/ paint, wheels, tires, SBF/tranny etc?)

I would probably use one of ERA's suggested paint shops. No desire to find someone here to paint it (I have another unpainted repair job in my garage!)

Here are my current thoughts on what I'd like, I want to make it look like a very early street car:
- AC logo pedals, steering wheel and bonnet badge
- very mild 289/302 build, maybe roller rockers but very stock HiPo 289 look, 4 barrel, would be happy with 270-300hp
- TKO600
- Dunlop wire wheels (might prefer gray over chrome?)
- Smith's gauges
- leather interior
- clear parking light lenses
- no bumper rings, just the overriders

Your height is right on the edge of doability. It will really depend on where your height is (meaning the distances between your heel and knee, knee and hip, lower butt and head. You'll have to have a "butt in seat" test there at ERA to know for sure. Listen to me on this, I'm 6'4" and the poster child for putting a big guy successfully in to an ERA car. Another positive note from your post is that the engine you've spec'd out will be a piece of cake for any of the engine builders, so no problem there. Now for the downside. The car is going to cost more than you think. Guys will PM you specifics, but in your mind you should be factoring in an "all in" cost from everything (including flights to CT for a "tall man" fitting) approaching six figures. Another sad point is that the time will take longer than you think. A turnkey slabber will take over a year and, possibly, upwards from there (some guys have patiently waited for almost two). You won't know for sure until you talk with Peter. If you're really serious about getting an ERA, custom made to your specs, then send Peter a reservation check today so you get in the queue. If you change your mind, they just give it back to you. And you can work with them on a handshake basis. Take it from me, as someone who has to gird for battle on a daily basis, that part is indeed refreshing.:cool:

Hi -

My car is one of the ERA slabsides completed in 2019. I built the car from a painted half-roller and assembled the engine from a bare block. I'm happy to share lots of details via PM, but the best places to start are:

FAQ (you probably know most of this)
Fabrication pictures (at ERA)
Engine build pictures (at my home)
Kit assembly pictures (at my home)

Also, listen to Patrick :) His budgetary cost estimate is accurate and he's got lots of other relevant experience (including being tall).

Happy New Year,
Bill

Not to mention exceptionally good looking.;) This is from the ERA site. Note how I peer directly through the center of the windshield.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...um/poster1.jpg