| DanEC |
06-18-2019 04:13 PM |
I thought it might have rubbed through the insulation and shorted but Patrickt may be correct on this. A couple years ago my orange wire became loose at the alternator terminal and the carnage looked almost like some one hit it with a welder. I think the boot got trapped under the wire terminal and then worked it's way out leaving the connection loose. Fried the orange wire and insulation for a couple of feet and I had to replace it all the way to the fuse box and re-wrap the harness. Ruined the altenator to as the terminal insulation was melted all the way through the case.
https://i125.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8a043a81.jpg |
| Lalmeida617 |
07-07-2025 12:23 PM |
1 Attachment(s)
Guys I know this is an old thread but I just figured I would try,to keep all the info in one spot. I hope that ok. #634 did the same thing as the OP’s car (exactly the same symptoms) you can see the heat from the engine compartment and probably age has taken its toll. What’s the best way to fix this? There is not enough slack to cut and recrimp. Maybe liquid electrical tape and shrink tube? I’m open to suggestions. Thanks for any help.
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| patrickt |
07-07-2025 12:39 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lalmeida617
(Post 1527415)
What’s the best way to fix this? There is not enough slack to cut and recrimp.
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Well the green and orange wires are toast, maybe the white one as well. Slice the black plastic (with the #35 on it) up to expose the four wires inside. Cut, butt crimp and solder replacement wires of the same color and gauge along with fresh screw terminals. Clean any corrosion off, use a dab of electrical grease and then put some pretty black electrical tape around the wire bundles. |
| incoming |
07-07-2025 02:54 PM |
That isn't engine heat related. It is due to poor connections. I see this on a daily basis. As Patrick recommended, cut the sheathing back a couple of inches. Probably five inches. Cut one wire off one inch, one two inches, one three inches and one four inches.
That will allow you to do the splices scattered out and easily shrink wrapped. Shrink wrap the wire the joints individually then overall.
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| Lalmeida617 |
07-07-2025 05:25 PM |
Guys is there a specific wire type I need to buy for this application, I know boats have special wire. Also are those 90deg connections a standard part?
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| patrickt |
07-07-2025 05:35 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lalmeida617
(Post 1527424)
Guys is there a specific wire type I need to buy for this application, I know boats have special wire. Also are those 90deg connections a standard part?
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Copper wire, that's it. The orange wire should be 10 gauge IIRC, the others can be 12 gauge. Inspect that red wire carefully. The orange to red connection is the alternator to battery charging circuit. The screw terminal at the end of the orange wire carries the operating current for the car. Pay particular attention to your connections. And the connectors are standard stuff. |
| strictlypersonl |
07-08-2025 05:21 AM |
Up until about 8 years ago, we used fuse boxes that had a separate fuse clamp and the tab that the wire connection screwed into. Under some circumstances they got corrosion between the parts, causing overheating and a bad connection. You can update with these. They can be broken into gangs of 4 fuses.
https://www.delcity.net/store/AGC-Fu...hoC3fUQAvD_BwE |
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