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-   -   Loosen the front left exhaust manifold screw (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/era-speak-bob-putnam/143041-loosen-front-left-exhaust-manifold-screw.html)

cobra 12-17-2019 07:50 AM
Loosen the front left exhaust manifold screw
 
1 Attachment(s)
Since I want to replace my leaky manifold gasket, I have to remove the exhaust manifold. Unfortunately, the front screw cannot be loosened. Is there a special key, the cutting disc or does someone have a screw-friendly solution ...

jhv48 12-17-2019 07:55 AM
Loosen all the other bolts so that as you loosen the problem bolt, the manifold can be pulled away from the head.

cobra 12-17-2019 08:04 AM
With the ERA Cobra, each cylinder has its own manifold pipe. I will try it, thank you very much

patrickt 12-17-2019 10:28 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobra (Post 1469797)
Since I want to replace my leaky manifold gasket, I have to remove the exhaust manifold. Unfortunately, the front screw cannot be loosened. Is there a special key, the cutting disc or does someone have a screw-friendly solution ...
There are instructions in the ERA manual for bending a tool to deal with the exhaust manifold bolts. You'll find the instructions, and a graphic, around page 28, but just do a search for "Heat and Bend" and it will pop right up.

patrickt 12-17-2019 11:03 AM
Here...
 
http://38.134.118.239/headerbolt.jpg

cobra 12-17-2019 10:05 PM
Thank you Patrickt

DanEC 12-18-2019 05:19 AM
Hard to tell from the picture but a closed end wrench may not clear the dimple in the pipe. If not then you might try a line wrench for tightening brake line and fuel lines. To give it more grip on the bolt if it feels like it's not gripping the head tight enough, I sometime clamp vice grips across the wrench to keep the jaws from spreading under pressure. I would look for some smaller head, 12-pont header bolts. I used ARP bolts. These are 6-point but I thought I found 12-point. Will have to look at my car.

https://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/100-1...QaAm93EALw_wcB

Seems like there were two lengths available and I used the longer one due to the combined thickness of the header flange and copper gasket.

DanEC 12-18-2019 05:23 AM
Here are the 12-point but you would need to be sure of the size bolt needed for a Ford FE.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/ARP-10012...gaAggpEALw_wcB

patrickt 12-18-2019 07:14 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC (Post 1469829)
Hard to tell from the picture but a closed end wrench may not clear the dimple in the pipe.
In that case, I might try using a cut-off wheel to turn the closed-end wrench to an "almost closed end wrench" with just enough of the circle end cut off to fit the bolt and turn it.

t walgamuth 12-18-2019 08:25 AM
Looks like it was put on with vice grips because of lack of clearance. I'd try that, then cut it off if nec. Prolly will come right off after cutting the head off. Also some heat probably will help.

Argess 12-18-2019 09:07 AM
Patrick; I think that wrench was intended for the left rear top bolt, not the front.

One way that works for me when I only have one stubborn bolt is to remove all the others, and then twist the part you want to come off CCW.

In this case one would probably have to remove the adjacent primary pipe and the lower bolt of the pipe in question. Then rotate the pipe to loosen the bolt. Once it starts to turn, an open wrench should work.

patrickt 12-18-2019 09:17 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Argess (Post 1469847)
In this case one would probably have to remove the adjacent primary pipe and the lower bolt of the pipe in question. Then rotate the pipe to loosen the bolt. Once it starts to turn, an open wrench should work.
I think that's a good plan. The more I look at his pic, it seems that the divot in the primary pipe just doesn't even line up right under the bolt.%/

CJ428CJ 12-18-2019 09:25 AM
When you reinstall the side pipes, be sure to use a little teflon thread sealant so you're less likely to have the same problem next time. Also, the header bolt shown in your picture uses a 7/16" wrench. Switch to bolts that have a 3/8" head (ARP makes them). That will allow you to use a box end wrench rather than an open end wrench.

xb-60 12-18-2019 04:29 PM
Is it feasible to use heat and a hammer, or just a hammer, to increase the size of the dimple/divet in the pipe so that you can use a ring spanner (closed-end wrench) instead of an open ended spanner?

Cheers,
Glen

patrickt 12-18-2019 04:34 PM
I just watched a Roadkill Garage episode where they bashed in the primary pipes with a hammer and claimed it had no effect whatsoever on the performance of the engine.:LOL:

t walgamuth 12-18-2019 04:52 PM
I wouldn't trust the road kill guys scientific methods.;)

kevins2 12-18-2019 07:03 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ428CJ (Post 1469849)
When you reinstall the side pipes, be sure to use a little teflon thread sealant so you're less likely to have the same problem next time. Also, the header bolt shown in your picture uses a 7/16" wrench. Switch to bolts that have a 3/8" head (ARP makes them). That will allow you to use a box end wrench rather than an open end wrench.
I can't check my car because it's in a bag for winter storage but I'm pretty sure I have the 3/8" ARP bolts and don't have a problem getting a box end wrench on any of them, so this is good advice.


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