![]() |
Radiator Repair or Replace
1 Attachment(s)
Here's an email I sent to Bob, but thought the information may be helpful to others. I'll report back.
Bob, I’ve got #071. Been talking to Peter about my shopping list after a blown engine has me checking off some squawks. I didn’t know I had radiator problems, but this one from 1983 needs help, according to a trusted radiator man. As you can see, it’s the old two-pin style. A re-core estimate is $750. Is it time to swap to aluminum, single pin mount? It's a very tight fit passing the upper control arm nuts. Can you provide any pricing to help my decision? Looks like I’ll need a radiator and a different top mounting plate and requisite hardware. What am I ignoring? This feels like a $750 core is the cheap route! :/ |
One word.......... "Fluidyne"
|
The Fluidyne FHP35 is a good fit relative to the overall dimensions, but will require some changes:
The upper tube must be modified to clear the ERA chassis. Somehow the fan mounting brackets must attached to the top of the radiator. On the early cars, the bottom ERA radiator tray must be modified to accept the Fluidyne's lower pins. I suspect that our later top filler/mount will work with the Fluidyne. Some shroud mods may be required. There's probably something that I've forgotten... |
Mine had a fluidyne and when it developed the electrolysis leak it was cheaper to replace it than to fix it (and then to have it probably fail again sooner rather than later). Put in the electrolysis plug.
|
My 2 cents: is upgrade to the biggest aluminum radiator you can fit. In my case I custom designed with a rad company to fit into my available space. Off the shelf did not work for mine but its a different chassis than yours. Thats the first part. 2nd and third part is Then install the biggest fan(s) you can with good shrouding. I also learned to not to use aluminum radiators whose tubes are epoxied into the core, mechanically brazed into the core is more durable over the years. Shop carefully.
Motors are just too expensive to screw around with old tech radiators A good custom built shrouded aluminum rad is about $800, good fans $200 then a good controller if you desire $200. All cheaper than a new motor or even just a head gasket job depending on the damage. Dont take my word for it, call some noted radiator experts to get pricing and solutions. My 475 hp big block can idle in 95F summer heat at 200F, with both fans blowing. The downside was having to upgrade to a 140A alternator to feed those fans. :) |
Quote:
|
Before I saw Bob's response, I talked to Peter Portante. Will cost around $1400 and 4 weeks waiting for a new radiator and required hardware for mounting. This would update my car to the new version - aluminum - and would be a more original look. Wrestling with this option. Cost is a small part of it. The waiting... ugh. It's roadster season in GA!
This car was built by my dad in '83. Sold in '88. And she found me again a little less than a year ago. Dad always had trouble with the old 428 overheating. A subsequent owner added an oil cooler and that reportedly solved the overheating issue. I put about 1500 miles on her before slinging a rod and never overheated. But the tired old mill wasn't exactly making good power. Decisions, decisions. |
Quote:
As an alternative, have you thought about sending your radiator down to Griffin to see what they can do with it? Bill S. |
Quote:
|
Quote:
Bill S. |
Quote:
|
Brice Thompson makes radiators for everything. I've bought several and never paid over $400.
Custom made for Cobras (B&B was the last one). Go online and look at their directions for ordering one from them. https://businessfinder.al.com/brice-...adsden-al.html https://www.facebook.com/BriceThomasRadiator/ |
Thanks Dwight. Brice Thompson looks like an experienced supplier and affordable. Good to know about them
|
Good advice, Mike. You're right on all points. And thanks Dwight. Great resource. I'll look into it.
|
2 Attachment(s)
Update; total parts to make the radiator the same as current run ERAs will be $1425, plus any taxes and shipping costs - and according to griffin, 6-8 weeks to build the thing. This option also will require new mounting trays and the can of worms that comes with retrofitting them. I checked with my engine builder, Lyle Piper, (Southern Automotive) who put in a call to his pals at Unique to see if they could offer a suggestion. “Get the radiator to us and we’ll have one like it built in aluminum in about a week”. So I did. I believe they’re working with Dwight’s recommended shop, Brice Thomas, where Unique gets all their cores. Here’s hoping.
Bonus! Got a tour of the Unique eye candy. |
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 08:07 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: