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Rear Suspension
I realize that you can run into problems with a live axle in a short wheelbase car, but would you have similar problems with the half-shafts binding on each side of the rear suspension?
While on the subject of rear suspension, are there any recomendations for the outboard suspension over the standard inboard brake setup. Have any of you run into problems with brake fade due to lack of ventilation? The car will mainly be driven on the street, but I am wondering if it is worth the extra money. I noticed that the ERA website mentions that they offer vented inboard brakes, but it also says that they are expensive:( . Bob P., how much are we talking about for these brakes? |
If your car is going to be used on the street then the standard rear suspension setup if more than adequate.
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For street use, the stock Jag works perfectly. For some limited open track use, (like a SAAC convention), consider an upgrade to Wilwood type calipers and 10 1/2" vented rotors. I have used the Concours West system for years in heavy open track use, but have had to upgrade further, to race type pads such as Performance Friction, and added a somewhat ungainly cold air induction system to stop fade. The outboard brake rear is the ticket for hard track use for a variety of reasons, such as better geometry control, less weight, better brake cooling and ease of adjustment. Then again, some people have to have all the bells and whistles when they go to the car shows. You can never tell when you might need better rear control backing out of the trailer and putting across the grass.
Don |
Ike,
I think we used to charge about $600 for the vented rear rotors. The new rear setup works much better for very little more $. The half-shaft joints are built for high angle, so that we have more than 3" of wheel travel in each direction for those BIG bumps and dips. |
Okay, so you could pay 600 bucks for inboard brakes that cool better, or you could pay 700 bucks for a completely different rear end. I know which is the better deal, but don't think it is worth it for our purposes.
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Ikestaa,
Don't forget, you will save 50 pounds with the optional rear end. But if you get it, you have to upgrade to the big front rotors. Glenn |
Yeah, but I'm not sure if weight is going to be a big factor on such a light car. As long as I don't hear any stories of drastic brake fade with the standard rear end then I think it will be plenty good enough for us. I am worried, because I am usually pretty hard on brakes (I am a procrastinator:)), but I have a feeling that I won't be driving it, so it really won't matter.
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Ike,
The stock rear brakes are fine unless you are pulling a trailer down Pikes Peak. :MECOOL: |
a427sc a/k/a Cheeks:
"a somewhat ungainly cold air induction system" You are, of course, referring to the prototype Caterpillar rear brake scoops positioned over your right shoulder in all of the many track action pictures? Gee, I thought that was to catch low flying quail and other birds of prey to agument the racoon catcher oil cooler scoop on the front of old 99' a/k/a the "Road Kill Special"? So, how is Bob doing on your custom brake upgrade? Mort MacTavish* *One of that group which "have to have all the bells and whistles when they go to the car shows. You can never tell when you might need better rear control backing out of the trailer and putting across the grass." |
Okay, Thank you guys again for your help.
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My Contemporary sports an AMP rear set up with outboard Wilwoods and quad koni's.. You can check them out at Accurate
Machine Products web page.. |
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