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Lakewood Bell Housing
Bob,
My ERA was built in 88 and has a 428. My Lakewood Bell Hosing is not only out of Concentricity (which can be corrected), but it’s not parallel with the block. It’s been cut, welded upon and just looks abused. So while I have it apart, I was thinking of replacing it. Do I have to trim anything off the new one to clear the clutch slave cylinder, etc. It isn’t necessary to cut the bottom flange for clearance since my extra deep oil pan is below the bottom of the bell housing. I am using the conventional throw out fork, etc. So is there any modification I need to do or is it ready to go out of the box? Thanks, Lou |
Lou,
I installed a new Lakewood bell housing on 428FE recently with no modification. Transmission was TKO, which did require an adapter. Used standard clutch fork. We did mill slave cylinder bracket to improve fit. Hope this helps, Dave |
Lou,
We don't trim anything from the side of the flange for the slave cylinder. I would still recommend that you trim the bottom flange as recommended (8" from the crank centerline) just in case you change the oil pan in the future. Yours is probably hanging below the frame by at least an inch??? |
Thanks for the info guys...
Bob, yes my oil pan is about 1.5" below the frame rails! |
Lou,
As they said on one of the classic cop shows "And be carefull out there!" I'd hate to see you trash an engine because of lack of oil. |
Lou:
Based upon my 3 ERA experience, I recommend that you follow Bob's advice and cut off the bottom of the bell housing. Remember, it is a foot or so further back from the front wheels than the pan and therefore is more likely to catch something if you go over a hump or crown (say a railroad crossing) etc. Frankly I would also strongly recommend that you go with the standard Canton or Aviad pan as recommended by ERA. They hold plenty of oil (with oil cooler and remote filter even more) and there is less chance of knocking an expensive hole in them. Lose the "deep" pan. Words to the wise. Jim Holden |
Follow up question:
Once the bottom of the bellhousing is trimmed is the clutch and pressure plate exposed to road dirt, water, etc.? Do you cover the area that was trimmed with anything to prevent the above?? Thanks, Mike |
I guess you only trim the flange.
I made the mistake as you stated, and cut exactly 8" from the centerline and ended up with a nice "inspection window" at the bottom of the Lakewood. So I drilled and tapped (4) 10-32 holes, added a curved stainless steel cover and stainless steel screws. Works just fine. Watch that 8" dimension. |
Todd-
That is exactly what I was worried about. Bob, did Todd trim too much or do you have to create a cover for the "inspection window" once the bellhousing is trimmed?? Thanks, Mike |
Chaplin
Those "Turn-key" cars at ERA have the bellhousing intact, and only the flange cut off. I should have looked at theirs first. |
Cutting, welding or modifying in any way voids the SFI rating for the bellhousing. That said, if the bottom flange catches on something, the parallality of the bellhousing can be lost. Then you have to have it blanchard ground to bring the tranny mounting surface into parallel with the back of the block. So if it may catch, and you don't ever do any track events where the tech inspector will notice the modification, than trim the flange. But be sure to measure your new bellhousing for crankshaft centerline and for parallality with the back of the block. It takes fifteen minutes and needs to be done on any bellhousing. Offset dowels are cheap.
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I have heated up then bent the little flange forward on my hot rods. That way you can just say you bent it while backing up out of your garage. Great for those nasty tech inspections, and most likely they will go through. I know shields will not pass NHRA tech if they have been cut on. The little lip foward will however get into a flywheel if you hit a bump hard enough. Boy, that will make some noise! Been there, done that, but at least it's a alternitive.
cobrashoch |
Here's how I trimmed my Lakewood.
http://www.cobragarage.com/Images/Ge...ttershield.jpg I know, I know, need to fill the holes with bolts. Gene |
1 Attachment(s)
Here's another shot of ground clearance gained from trimming the bellhousing flange parallel to the ground. Get rid of all of it for maximum effect. Mine is ERA 409 trimmed as described by Bob Putnam.
As a guide for trimming, lay a straightedge up against the bottom of the bellousing and up against its bottom side, then scribe a line across the flange parallel to the ground. Cut the engine plate to match. |
Can you cut while attached to the car?
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I suppose so, but it's much more difficult, messy and harder to paint. You also add the possibilty of contaminating the ring gear teeth.
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You can do this if you get the car up high enough for access. Layout a level straight line across the flange that is flush with the bottom of the bellhousing. Apply a piece of making tape along this line as a guide and use a cutoff wheel in a die grinder to make the cut. You'll have to protect yourself from all the flying hot particles. Once you've removed the flange and section of engine plate, remove the razor-blade like edge with a burr and file, then protect the bare metal with a nice coat of paint. Nothing to it!:D
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