Club Cobra - Brake Line and Clutch Bleeding

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Brake Line and Clutch Bleeding

Hi Bob:
I would like to flush out the old brake and Clutch slave fluid and replace this with new fluid.

First off, on my #375 which fluid do you reccomend? I was given a pint of Willwood fluid from the previous owner and it is nice fluid as I have used it before.

Second Q.... Which brake caliper should I start with first, second third fourth and fifth. (ie is the Clutch slave last or first or if neither where in the sequence? It appears that they both work from the same bifurcated reservoir? Yes?

I would like to use one of those vaccuum pump one man fluid extractor gizmos....

Does anyone have any suggestions as to which to buy? Some of these can do double duty as an oil sump extractor, trannie fluid and rear banjo fluid too.

Best

The most compatible fluids are Castrol LMA and ATE type 400. Both are DOT 3 or 4. Don't use DOT 5 - it's silicone-based and may create problems with seals. You will need about a pint of fluid total.

Since the front and rear brakes are separate systems, it doesn't matter which you do first. While you can use a vacuum bleeder, it's not necessary.

I would do the flush this way:

Open the right front bleeder and pump the brake pedal (slowly) until the reservoir is almost dry. If you run it completely dry, you will be punished. :CRY:

Fill the reservoir and pump the pedal again, until you're getting new fluid from the right caliper. (Obviously) Don't ever let the reservoir go dry!

Do the same process with the left front caliper.

Repeat the sequence with the rear calipers, doing the right one first, then the left.

The feed for the clutch is midway up the reservoir, so don't let the level fall below the feed hole when you flush the clutch. Have someone depress the clutch while you open the bleeder. Close the bleeder before they release the pedal. Repeat until the fluid is fresh.

Hat Tip Bob!
Very helpful as ever!
BTW, I stopped by your shop on Tuesday evening. Picked up those fluted knobs for the wipers and dimmer switches. Nice.
Jawboned with Ted and Peter. Missed Ya.
Cheers

Bob:
Have you, or anyone else, ever had any contact with the "solo" bleeders like the one made by Earl's (Holly). It appears to be a bleeder nipple with a spring loaded check ball mounted to it to prevent air from being drawn back into the system.
DonC

I've used the same one man kit for the last 15 years to bleed my brakes and it works extremely well.

Its a kit called "Gunsons Easibleed" It uses the air pressure in a spare tyre to pressurise a remote reservoir full of fluid that is in turn connected by a tube and a pressure sealed cap to the top of the master cylinder.

You simply replace the standard master cylinder cap with the temporary cap supplied with the kit, fill up the remote reservoir, connect up the air pressure tube on the top of the remote reservoir to the valve on a spare tyre and then you go around all the brake calipers opening the bleed nipples in turn until no more air bubbles comes out or you can see the colour of the new fluid coming through.

Works like a dream and no more shouting at the wife from under the car " push down slowly, hold it, now let it up slowly," I now keep that sort of dirty talk to the bedroom..

Cheers,

Tony
:) ;)

Tony:
Thanks for the info I'll have to take a look at it.
DonC