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It looks like we've lost a few posts...
Yes - The RPV needs to be disabled. If there is a rubber cup inside a brass piece where the spring seats, just take the rubber completely out. You want there to be a clear passage from the deep end of the cylinder into the spring area. |
Update....
The modifications were not done so I removed the rubber cup from the front master and the rear master was a little different, it was like you described with a thin rubber piece inside the brass part, so I removed it too. Now the rear master piston is sticking. I'm going to try to find a rebuild kit for it today or if one is not available I will order a new master cyl. I did get front brakes after bleeding them and they release now so we're on the right track. I'll update again after I rebuild or replace the rear master. |
Final update....
I got the new rear master, removed the RPV and installed, bled, and reassembled everything. I think we got it. The brakes don't feel as firm as they did, (pedal pressure) possibly because the RPV's weren't removed before or I may not have gotten all the air out of the lines, but they apply and release like they should. I can't get it out for a test drive yet, it's been raining here and the roads are a mess but I'll get it out as soon as possible and hopefully all will be as it should. Thanks everyone for all the help especially Bob, you have been a lifesaver. |
The brakes will be a little softer because the "residual pressure" is not keeping the pads up against the rotors all the time. You'll get used to it quickly.
Sometimes some small bubbles stick to the inside of the calipers. After the initial bleeding, I usually tap the front calipers with a soft hammer, then wait for the bubbles to come to the top. Then, just crack the bleeder a bit for the last po(o)p. |
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