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adding a cigarette lighter
I want to know two things please. One how easy is it to install a lighter. Secondly I want it for a instrument to measure performance (horsepower, torque 1/8 mile and 1/4 mile times). What is your thoughts on these types of products? If they don't work I can always use the lighter for my radar detector.
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As far as the Assesory Power Outlet is concerned, you may want to try to get a unit from the back of an Chevy SSR. They are well made and have a seal on them. Your local GM dealer can order one for you.
It is what I use and I run a GPS from it. It also will allow a lighter to be pushed in. Hope this helps. |
Would I connect it to the wire harness where it is slated for a lighter?
Rich |
You may want to put an "inline" fuse for the red wire @ 20 Amps.
I wired it to the battery so I could run air pumps and lights at night for repairs. |
I added one in my Arntz to run the G-tech pro. I bought one from an auto parts store for $9 that had ears on it to mount on a flat surface. I mounted it to the top of the passenger side foot box a ways back so it was out of sight. I added a fuse holder inline, and went to a power block I had on the top side of the footbox (which I put in myself when I added the MSD type box).
Not too hard to do. The Gtech pro works great and seems to be quite accurate. |
thanks guys,
Trularin explain to me what an "inline " fuse is? |
The white wire (#21 in the harness) is already fused. You might have to add a ground wire to the socket, although there should be an extra available ground wire in the harness also. All dash grounds are black.
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So I can pick up any old lighter socket or should I go with the ssr suggestion?
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DrC
Any pictures from your ERA # 711 ? Greetings from Switzerland Walter |
I added one to #414 just using the standard wire harness connections that are provided for a lighter. I mounted it under the dash in a vertical position - the opening pointing down to the floor and attached it to the back of the bottom lip of the dash. It's centered between the 2 dash support posts that run up from the tranny tunnel. That way it's not visible, but you can reach under the dash and plug power in.
I run a radar detector and G-Tech off it with a splitter and all seems to work fine. Just have to remember that it's not a switched connection so you have to turn everything off or it will drain the battery. |
Depends on what you are doing.
I used the SSR, because I was the validation engineer for the truck and had a few. However, it is rated at 20 to 30 Amps and will handle a 12V mini compressor, not to mention a 12V coffee pot without melting, smoking or starting on fire. It also has a weather flat that is spring loaded to keep everything else out of the socket. If it rains, the socket stays dry. Third, one thing I really liked, it is held in place by a large hand tighten nut at the back that has a unidirectional cam so it does not come loose. It is all up to you. Heck, If I knew I had any left, I would send you one. An inline fuse is a small fuse holder with wires on both sides that can be placed in the 12V delivery line to any device you wish to protect. :D |
Thanks Truarin for the offer and the exlanation. I like your idea and reasoning. I think I'm going with that. However with that said HSSS427 if I need to go with the "invisable look" your points are VERY valuable.
Rich |
To respond to your question Cobra I not very good at the computer downloading picture thing. Infact not into pictures much at all. If you want to get specific all I really want to do is drive the tires off of cars, in my spare time of course.
Rich |
Got to like this guy already. :LOL:
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If you want power that's switched off with the key position, use #20 (green) intended for the heater. It's also fused.
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