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Help! - How Best To Access/Remove Clutch?
Per the other thread that I had posted, it appears that our ERA/FIA has a clutch problem. In order to access the clutch it looks like I will need to:
1 - Remove forward rollbar brace 2 - Remove seats 3 - Remove transmission tunnel 4 - Disconnect prop-shaft 5 - Unbolt trans from bellhousing 6 - Unbolt trans from mounts to car 7 - Try to slide trans toward rear of the car Then - ? Do I need to lower the rear of the engine in order to pull the trans, or is there some secret to doing this that I don't have a clue about? Thanks!!! |
After all is unbolted jack up the rear of the engine a few inches to lift the trans. off the crossmember. Then the trans. can be pulled out through the inside of the car. Its easier if you take the doors off but you dont have to. Thats how its done on the 427 car, I think the fia is the same.
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Thanks.
I am assuming that we need to loosen the engine mounts partially to jack the rear end up? |
Just finishing replacing the ring gear on the flywheel in my FIA. Steps to remove,
Remove Seats Remove trans tunnel and the forward cover plate that spans the footboxes under the dash Remove Drive shaft Remove chasis tranny mount boults (under the X frame) Remove side pipes (you will have to slide under the car eventually. Jack up front as high as you dare. Remove tranny through cockpit carefully using lift Remove Bellhousing (mines a McLeod) comes up through the cockpit also Now you can do whatever you need to do to the clutch. As they say installation is the reverse of removal. I do this all by myself as there is no local help. An extra set of hands would be nice. I have a complete set of studs so that I can hang the flywheel on the crankshaft, hang the clutch on the flywheel and hang the bellhouseing on the block. The studs make it easier to get the bolts in and are replaced with bolts when done. Good luck |
It comes apart easily. After having done it a couple of times, I can have my tranny out in about 30-45 minutes. Mines a 427 but here's what I do.
1. Drive the front up on ramps and jack up the back to install jack stands under the rear. 2. Remove the seats. 3. Remove the shifter boot and handle. 4. Remove the transmission tunnel. 5. Unbolt the transmission mount from the frame. 6. Place a floor jack or scissor jack under the bottom of the bell housing and raise the rear of the engine an inch or so so the transmission is no longer resting on the crossmember. 7. Remove the driveline. 8. Unbolt the transmission from the bellhousing. Now just lift on the back of the tranny and slide it out (shift linkage and all). 9. You can now remove the jack from the back of the bellhousing and unbolt the bellhousing and remove it to access the clutch. There's no need to remove the sidepipes. They're a pain to remove and reinstall and it's not necessary. Chris |
The replies really helped.
I got mine done in about two hours, including removal of the clutch and flywheel. For what it is worth, I did not have to jack up the back of the engine, the transmission just slid out backwards. I did jack up the front of the transmission (actually just applied minimal pressure with a jack). Thanks! |
This is an old thread, but I'm in the middle of this right now and am trying to avoid needing to remove the parking brake assembly to get the trans tunnel out of the car. I have it all loosened up, but I can't get the leverage to pull it out with the handle in the way. I don't see this listed in the above steps, so am I missing something here?
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Make sure the rear brake access panel is removed at the rear of the tunnel. Then, lift the tunnel straight up at the rear. Then wiggle and twist to get it out. That's what worked best for me. If you want to unbolt the parking brake from its bracket, you can do that without upsetting its adjustment. Good luck.
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Troy, it may help to loosen (or remove) the bolts securing the parking brake ratchet and handle to the frame so it can be laid over a bit. As long as the brake access panel is out of the way the tunnel should lift straight up. The rolled carpet at the front of the tunnel seals pretty tight plus there may be a seal of some sort between the tunnel and the floor adding some resistance.
I would look closely along the front to see if there are any small screws securing the tunnel to the foot boxes. They may be buried in the carpet nap. |
Thanks guys - I am able to wiggle and move the tunnel quite a bit, but it hits the bottom of the dash right now if I can't move it a bit laterally because of the parking brake handle.
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Patrick - your photo shows that it might be sectioned in this area? Mine is a solid continuous bottom. Attached is a photo I just took (sorry, bad phone quality) of 472's tunnel hovering in place.
http://troy.krugercentral.com/misc/tunnel.jpg |
That's why I posted the pic. I would just trim around the tunnel so that your parking brake will fit through it when unbolted from the transmission.
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Troy - that's a little different than the newer model tunnels. I would go ahead and completely remove the parking brake assembly. You're not going to want to have it in the way when trying to pull the transmission and clutch. It seems like there was a nut and bolt connection of the cable to the brake ratchet on mine - not sure if it might have changed over the years.
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