|
Clay, sorry to be so tardy responding to your question .. I've been tearing my clutch down .. trying to figure out why it doesn't :D Appears torque monster FE and organic disc is a bad choice .. :rolleyes:
Anyway .. #745 is 2007 Viper Silver with 2007 Viper Red stripes. Good advice from other ERA owners on the bonding. If you are going to use a local painter, then I'd do it like ERA does it up to the point they send it to paint: powder coat frame, bond and rivet on the body, then send to paint as a bonded unit on dolly wheels. That way the aluminum panels don't go on till after paint. So have them ship it to you the way they ship it to the CT paint shops. There will still be plenty of craft work in installing the aluminum panels ;) I went further and had it made as a full painted roller. It just doesn't cost that much more in the big scheme. Sam |
Thank you, Sam--I'll look through my pictures from that ERA visit and see if I can find your car.
I like your idea about sending it to my painter the way ERA does--gives me more to do that way! I had also planned on painting the frame, etc., myself but I will rethink that, as well. Per our previous conversation last month, Peter had already agreed to drill every aluminum-to-chassis, aluminum-to-aluminum, and body to chassis rivet hole for me so that all I would have to do is rivet--it seems that everything should be located pretty well that way, but I'm willing to reconsider. I'm afraid the toploader is here to stay since I already have it. I do appreciate the great advice from all of you--your arguments make good sense. I'm looking forward, though, to experiencing the feel of the original as much as I can recreate it. I've enjoyed that same process with my MG for over fifteen years. |
Quote: "I'm looking forward, though, to experiencing the feel of the original as much as I can recreate it."
That's what I was looking for in my Cobra and I think I found it with an iron 428 and a toploader. I wasn't into re-inventing the wheel. Good luck |
Quote:
|
I use an Edelbrock Performer RPM w/Holly 750 cfm carb & Comp Cams hyd (270H) cam. Runs nice...not too much HP, lots of torque. Check my gallery. Good luck.
|
Your car looks great, especially 718-3. That view, to me, has always shown a 427 Cobra at its best.
Your engine setup sounds perfect--torque is king! |
Jag rebuild tips
Clay, you mentioned that you were finishing up a rebuild of a jag rear, can you take me thru the process, did you take any pics? the more info the better, as I am about to tear into mine...
send me an email if you want jeff.warren@brooks.com |
Selling faster than SUV's!
Peter called with my chassis number today... #773. CSCOBRA posted his chassis number as 766 on 07-01-08. That's 7 cars in 7 business days. There's no shortage of business at ERA! Going back to see grandkids in Rowaton CT on August 1st and will make time for a visit to ERA to finalize the build spec. Can't wait!
|
Delivery Is Getting Close
Congratulations on getting your chassis number. I know the feeling as my chassis number is 768. Peter said I should have my car in early September. My son and I are going up to see the car just prior to them shipping it.
Enjoy. Clyde |
Quote:
Congratulations on your ERA! When you get a chance, please share some of the details/plans that you have for your car. What are you planning on for a power plant? Have you selected a painter, colors yet? ERA #753 will be delivered to me on Friday of this week. I'll be doing the installation of the drivetrain and associated electrical work/plumbing. - Fred |
Quote:
Ray |
Era 768
We are going with a vintage 1966 FE 428 with a top loader. Colors will be Guardsman Blue with White stripes.
|
Here's to resurrecting an old thread . . . .
Intercity Lines picked up #766 at ERA this morning. I should have my kit next week. It's been a long year since my second deposit, and almost two years since my initial deposit. From the forum, though, it looks as though ERA has been busy with lots of turn-key business as well as developing the beautiful new slabside. But, everything is ready for it! |
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Wow, when I started reading this thread I thought it started this summer and couldn't figure out how I missed reading it. I guess things are slowing down a little as I put my deposit down about 45 days ago and requested a Feb delivery date - which Peter said would work out about right.
Sounds like I'm planning to build a near duplicate to your street car and have gone through the same process of planning to do the frame painting and bonding myself and morphing towards letting ERA do at keast the powder coating and maybe the bonding. I have a question on your Vintage wheels. I asked Peter if using 7-1/2 inch wheels all around to more duplicate the look of the street car would work. He was kind of negative about it but I haven't given up on the idea. Are you using the exact same wheel with the same backspace for both the front and rear? Also, are you using ERA's undercar exhaust sysem? Good luck with your car. It sounds like it will turn out very nice. Dan |
Mine is a true kit. I was going to paint the chassis myself, but that's already been done (still unclear whether painted or powder-coated--either way, it was discounted somewhat since I didn't ask for it). ERA has already drilled all rivet holes for me, just as if they were permanently installing the body and aluminum panels, and they've included the necessary rivets, sealant, etc. Everything already fits well, so they've made it relatively easy for me to duplicate their effort.
I will disassemble the car completely. When I take it to be painted, it will consist solely of the frame and the sealed/riveted body (only--no aluminum panels, etc.) as a single unit mounted on the ERA casters. To review, this car is the street model, with no rollover bar, no hood scoop, and no stripes. Exhaust will be the undercar type, dash is street type with Smith's instruments. Engine is a 381 hp, 429 lb-ft FE 390 V8 (already dyno'd) with a wide-ratio toploader and 3.31 Jaguar XJ-6 rear end with inboard brakes (I've essentially finished rebuilding the rear end). Vintage GT40 5-pin wheels are 15 x 7.5" front and rear, same offset also, with Goodyear Eagle GT II tires 235/60R-15 at all four corners. Should be fun! |
cscobra:
I have a street car from ERA as well, I just updated the pics about a week ago. If there is anything I can help you with let me know. I'm no expert but I have put a lot of time into the car and have done a ton of research on correct stuff...as most will say, I'm over board with it but it's fun for me...anyways, reach out to me if you have any questions. Good luck with the car and post pics as much as you can. |
Regarding the same size wheels front and rear--this will duplicate the look and feel of the original street models, but I wouldn't do it if I had anything over 400 hp. The original street Cobras with 428 V8s were advertised at 375 hp (most of the time) using the old SAE gross horsepower ratings (probably closer to 320 hp net). But I've also seen original road test pictures of 427 Cobra street models with the same size Sunburst wheels (also 15 x 7.5") front and rear with the same tire size for all four corners. They were advertised at 425 hp (probably underrated for a 427!).
I discussed this several times with Peter et al during my wait. I didn't hear of any potential problems, and in fact they seemed rather enthusiastic about it since so few replicas are built as true street models. Every choice I have made for the car has been weighted toward simplicity, reliability, and durability. With 381 hp on tap from a low-stressed 390 and a car weighing at most 2600 lbs, I think the power will take care of itself. (I'll admit that I did opt for a Blue Thunder medium riser intake manifold in aluminum. The look duplicates that of the Ford manifold right down to the embossed FE firing order on the left front runner). |
Let us know how the bonding and rivit work go as I'm still leaning towards doing this part myself too. Although I've pretty well decided to have them powdercoat the frame.
I would also be interested to see how the 7-/2 inch wheels look on the rear when you get them on. Good luck with your project. Dan |
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 10:21 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: