Some progress pictures..
 

A few questions:
What have you guys used to limit the clutch pedal travel? Did you attach something to the pedal or mount something to the floorboard?

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/atta...7&d=1215527324

"Honey, have you seen where our comforter went?":LOL:

"Hello, Bed Bath and Beyond? I'd like to place an order............."

:LOL::LOL::LOL:

I am also interested in the clutch pedal stop.

I haven't looked at it, but I was thinking a threaded plate with a bolt and a lock nut on it through the firewall. Put a rubber stopper on the tip of the bolt to stop the clutch arm from going to the floor. (I started to write, "Put a rubber on the shaft.." but thought better of it...)

What are the rest of you guys doing for a clutch pedal stop?

DD

something like a bolt or likewise attached to the pedal.I think the adjustable bolt through the firewall is best....with the rubber on....:3DSMILE:

clutch pedal stop
 

Gang,

This is what I have done.

The bumper is a Rancho suspension stop I bought for the old Vette but it wouldn't fit with out drilling the frame...(so I sprung for a NOS piece).

Never thought I would figure out what to do with them!

Pete

Pedal Stop
 

I have an ERA 427, so this may not even apply to the FIA and you may really need an adjustable stop of some sort. But ... I called Doug when I was installing my McLeod CTB and he said the footbox is the stop. My clutch pedal arm strikes the back edge of the cutout in the floor and bottoms out on the back of the footbox at about the same time. Note also that there are two holes in the bellcrank. The outer one provides the correct throw for my 3/4" master cylinder. The threaded clevis on the actuator rod allows you to set the pedal height, it does not change the throw distance.

From McLeod, the important thing is to get enough piston throw to move the CTB the .5" or whatever it is, but not so much that you overextend it and blow it apart. They specify 1" piston throw on a 3/4" master cylinder. Other diameter master cylinders require a different amount of throw. You will want to make sure you have this much movement on the actuator rod after setting your pedal stop .. or you may not get full clutch disengagement. It follows that you should make sure you do not have more than 1" of throw or :eek::eek:

You may know the rest of this, but here it is anyway .. as I recall, the gap between the TOB surface and the diaphram fingers is supposed to be .10-.30" when the tranny is bolted up. I lay a straight edge across the bellhousing and use a micrometer to measure the depth of the fingers in several places. Then I lay a straight edge across the TOB surface and measure the perpendicular distance to the face of the tranny housing. Adjust the screw collar on the CTB until this dimension is .10-.30" less than the bellhousing measurement. You'll have to settle for whatever it is when the hyd lines are pointing to the left (driver) side and the bleeder line is on TOP.

Sam

Clutch pedal stop? I am 5' 6" with a 29" inseam. I had to adjust the clutch and brake pedals to the max so I could reach the pedals with out having the stearing wheel in my chest! I had to cut a small notch out of the bottom of the clutch pedal arm so the clevis fork would clear. It was that or taping 2x4 blocks to the pedals with electrical tape! Anyone know where I can get a pair of driving shoes with 2" souls?

I have the same problem Snakebit has...and like to sit back from the steering wheel.

Where you set a pedal stop pretty much depends on if you adjust your pedals to be further back. I needed an easily adjustable stop as I was slowly working the pedal tops further back.

The clutch and brake pedals can be moved back quite a bit by cutting the master-cylinder actuating shafts in two and adding a "joiner" nut in the middle. This allows you to lengthen the shafts and rotate the pedals back toward the driver.

Eventually I ground out the floor board more and more with a burr and brought the pedal back much further...I think I picked up about an inch+ at the pedal top. Would have to go back and measure to be exact but lots...

Further rotation back would be too far over-center, but it is in the "sweet spot" for leverage for my height now...effective pressure is highest just a little beyond 12 o'clock.

Also, as the clutch linkage wears and settles in you can often pick up a notch or two on the clutch shaft splines and get less play in the pedal.

If you should ever suddenly lose a lot of clutch travel, check the shoulder bolt at the base of the pedal that keys the clutch pedal to the shaft...I have broken at least 2. Same for the accelerator pedal.

Haven't quite figured out how to move the accelerator pedal back without moving the pedestal back on the foot box...hard for me to get the pedal floored without really stretching. (Maybe a blessing in disguise).

Your Mac t/o bearing is the newer GOOD design with the machined 90 degree hose fittings...I have had no problem with it now in ~10,000+ miles. The old unit with banjo fittings was a disaster waiting to leak.

SSSammy makes a good point...you can't change it once its bolted up...real pain to pull the trans to change it.

To adjust the gas pedal, loosen the arm at the pedal box that attatches to your carb linkage just enough so it turns with some resistance. Raise the gas pedal to the height you want and tighten the arm. You may need to install a pedal stop so you don't bend any carb linkage.

The clutch pedal arm to master cylinder linkage rod is metric, would you know the thread size for the extender?

Snakebit,

Good idea, I have tried that. But, the accelerator pedal arc doesn't work for my leg length...raised the pedal tip up as much as I can tolerate, helps a little but it still doesn't change needing to stretch for full travel. Awkward to smoothly work the pedal if its starts too far up on the arc for me.

The clutch and brakes pedals rotated back an inch or so to the driver the resulting geometry/arc works great for me. Pressure points are just beyond 12 o'clock which give me good leverage and a comfortable leg extension.

Have moved all the carb linkage holes to speed up the action, but I need a longer right leg...

The joiner nut I used to extend the clutch and brake shafts I think is a fine thread SAE, but if you have one out and its metric...can't help with the size in either case.

Oh, it is a real pain to cut the shafts up in the foot box. I used a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel...must have busted a bunch as you can't get a good 90 degree angle. Be sure to leave a nut on the shaft so you can clean up the threads after you cut it...in the car hard to chase the threads.

(In retrospect aren't the Tilton push-rods removable?...with a snap-ring? holds them in the cylinder piston? Man, I did that the hard way! If you can get to the snap-ring take them out to cut and chase the threads).


Pete

What distance did you end up with from the back of the foot box to the rear of the pedals?

Snakebit,

From the footbox to the FRONT of the pedal face, over the "A" in the ERA logo I got 8 13/16th on the clutch and 8 1/2 on the brakes.

Couldn't read the square on the backside of the pedal, hence the front.
Made sure I was at the center of the pedals, as the face rocks backwards.

I would grind the fiberglass floor rather than notch the pedal to allow the pedal to come forward.

Pete

Errata :(
 

If anyone was interested in the process for installing the concentric throw out bearing I discussed in my previous post .. I made an error (factor of 10, close enough for a Harley, not a Cobra). The correct numbers have been supplied above:o:o

Sam