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It's always the small things that get you.
I had a Thunderbird which had a hydraulic clutch, but there was this short 1 inch cable... you can figure out the rest. Glad to hear that you were able to get the Cobra home safely. Ray |
I was under my ERA last night adjusting the brake and clutch pedals. I'm thinking of taking a socket head allen screw and drilling a hole through the head and safety wiring it to the arm.
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Tie Downs
Bob,
Tell me about the "tie downs built into the lower control arms". I've been using the two extra treaded holes in back of the rear cross member and forged eye bolts. The down side is crawling under the car to hook them. Pat |
Here you go...
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BTW, I had the car back out on the road today after using LocTite on the set screw. Everything felt fine so what I think i might do, considering the likelihood of removing it again is probably small, is put a dab of J-B Weld in the middle of the spline and piece of metal extending from nine o'clock over to three o'clock thus holding the arm on even if the set-screw breaks off. If I ever have to remove the arm I'll just bust the J-B Welded metal piece loose by sticking a screw driver under it. |
On the Jag-based suspension, there's a tie-bar between the lower shock mount and the hub carrier pivot shaft (if we built the suspension unit). It's got a hole in it big enough for a hook, or you can put a strap around it.
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Final Pic to Close Out This Thread
Frankly, the LocTite on the set-screw seems to be, and probably is, sufficient to ensure that the clutch arm doesn't vibrate loose. Not to mention the fact that once you know what's happened you can literally prop something behind your clutch pedal and then reach under the car from the driver's side and put the arm back on by feel and carefully limp home should it happen to you. That being said I did add this last bit of safety margin. It's simply a 1-1/4" fender washer with a dab of J-B Weld on the spline and washer-hole. Now if I need to remove the clutch arm sometime in the future I will have to whack this off with a screwdriver and mallet, but this will hold the arm securely should the set-screw manage to vibrate out past the LocTite.
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...der_washer.jpg |
Hey Pat silly question
PatrickT Pat will a screw go all the way through the part? Is so go with a longer bolt and add a cotter pin to the other end. It's like safety wiring. Even if it backs out it stops at the pin. Just a thought,%/ Had a brain fart or passed a stone:eek:**):JEKYLHYDE:o:) Rick
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I wouldn't obsess too much about the arm coming off. Pat's experience is the only one that I know of that's occurred in 15 years of using the splined connection. He's just special. :rolleyes:
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He is a special GUY@#$!%^
strictlypersonal Pat is a special guy, not sure where this parade leads too.**)My thought was about making the thing unable to ever come apart again without adding J&B welding or 2 part epoxy to the splines. Long Bolt drilled on the other end with a small cotter pin or spring clip as a safety clip would work like safety wiring the spinners on the pin drives. :) It was just a brain fart.%/:o:) Have a nice day Bob. Hope the AC is working in your Office. Has Pete helped with an oxygen tank in that thin air you work in?;):rolleyes::LOL::LOL::LOL: Rick L.
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I'm glad this thread came up. I was under my car the other day and checked the set screw and could take it out with my fingers it was that loose.
Thanks for the info! |
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You forgot bubblegum, baling wire, and spit
Patrick-T You forgot the above, and I hate when I run out of bubblegum.:eek::CRY::CRY:;):LOL::LOL::LOL: What's worse is now I have to jack up the car and look under it for this problem.:eek::mad: Thanks alot Pat.;) Bob Pats starting trouble again!!!!!!!!:p:rolleyes:**):o
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