Me too, they don't even get close to one another.

Mooch, you should liken this question to the one asked by the young men in white shirts/black trousers and riding bicycles who knock on your door wanting to know if you have taken Jesus as your personal savior.......he's on a mission from a higher authority.

I don't think anyone is questioning your wrenching skills, Pat's just trying to convert you to our lifter clattering ways. :D Come on, you know you want to....

ZOERA, good! I'm going to stay on track with a heater and a 5 speed with .8 OD.

Flat tappet? Amen brother, I'm a believer, it's what "real men" run. :) :)

Mooch,
With all due respect to your wrenching and sensibilities and your newness here:

I attempted to illustrate that you may be at cross purposes with your needs and wants for this type car. You can spend for all the ginger bread you want but virtually none of it will make a Cobra replica a cozy, comfy quiet touring car. It's items you'll spend money on now that you'll wonder why a year from now provided you put more than 500 miles on it. Pat said earlier that some things are just not as much fun as you think they'll be.

It's like missing the point of Cobras-a C6 or 350SL would fill those bills much better than a Cobra. You're buying 600 LB Ft of torque- totally opposite what a comfort-seeking passenger would want. A warm sweater, parka or skiers underwear would be a better investment than heater, seat crap, top, side curtains, radio or ashtray. Vettes even come with a draft blocker.

Ironically the one thing you would find helpful-you've deleted! Get the glove box dash! It's not big but it's a good place for the MSD, cell phone, spare fuses, pen and pad and -amazingly-gloves!

The point of giving you the link to the other thread was so you might realize that driving in weather colder than 50 is more than a little uncomfortable-it's harmful to the motor for oil temp-but what the he!!, it's your $18K. Thin weight synthetic oils are not the answer either. Yes they flow fine but they don't get hot enough to burn off the condensation in the oil. Slow death for motors.

So I'm not just a shoot-from-hip wise a$$. Learned a lot of lessons from building and driving the same car for a long time and I'm dumb enough to think passing on what I learned might help a guy or save him money or disappointment. Big lesson is; spec you car to please YOU- not any prospective passengers. And don't try to make it something it can't ever be. Choose a different weapon for others needs.

There's one really dumb option you did not check on the ERA list-
At least your car won't look like this:
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...iving_Away.jpg

Oh and don't mind Pat- we must all remember He knows everything!:rolleyes:

Hey, at least Pat has square tail lights,,,, I'm jealous... :)

Chas-

Points taken and yes I do appreciate and take the advice. I know exactly what I'm getting myself into, as I've been in a Pontiac racing family for years. They are allowing me to do a Ford build only because it is a Cobra. I don't have any delusions regarding the loud, smelling of gas, feeling every bump, I'm about to crap my pants type of experience these cars are about.

Funny thing is my wife could care less about a roll bar on her side, but the seat heaters are becoming a sticking point. Sort of a "I'm letting you do this, so at least give me one thing I want" type of thing. I know that she'll want them for anything below 65F(yes we have thin blood after living in FL for 5 years). I'll probably use them as well at 65F deg. Even if we never use them, I'd rather put them in when it is easier then not getting them and wishing they were there. Even so, I still might delete them just because somewhere in the back of my head I just think - "these are wrong". Oh well

I definitely read through your post regarding engine temps and when I get to driving the car in cooler temps I'll watch the dash and garage it if it is not getting up to temp. I agree, the car is more important than the temp of my rear end, in the end. pun intended. Enough of the heaters though.

I've decided to go against the glovebox because the comp cars didn't have them and I actually like the look more without them. I may regret that decision in the end, but we'll see.

You can't casually cruise at 80 mph in Northern California with "Ponch and Jon" on the freeways waiting to give you a ticket. :rolleyes:

And anyway, turning 2,800 rpm is really no big deal for an extended time with these 482's. Maybe with one of those puny 447's it might be a lot work, but no worries for a 482. :LOL: (calm down Patrick, I'm just joshing around).

Mooch,
Well put and thanks for expanding your situation-it helps guys to help you.

It is definitely a more positive and economical experience to build one of these just as you and only you, want it.
I guess that's really all Pat and I are hammering away at.

But most of us on here wind up advising 'do it the way I did it 'cause I found it best and baddest'. All have a definitive idea of how a Cobra 'should be'.

I think that anybody that answers a request for help/experiences/advice does mean well and you probably will too. You can see however that one can't be too 'thin-skinned' or the underlying information and advice is sometimes overlooked. The guys on here are great for sharing experiences and help. We just all ain't poets of the keyboard when doing so.

Starting with an ERA is a very rewarding first step in the process and a smart move since you have the resources to do so.

Do it your way and best luck. Show us the car when built.

Mooch-

You won't be "feeling every bump", the ERA ride is very smooth and the seats are surprisingly comfortable. I don't need a heater or heated seats because my wife said she'll never ride in it and I don't plan to drive it much below 60*, but if I were you I wouldn't hesitate to get both: build it the way you want it!

BTW, if you skip the glove box, Peter P. will probably advise you (as he did me) to get the side pockets: you are going to have stuff you'll want a place for. Jim Holden went 100% comp car authentic, with no glove box or side pockets, and told me that he misses not having a place to put things.

Jeff

Get the side pockets. With the four point belts on it's hard to reach over to the glove box. I keep my wallet and cell phone in the side pocket -- it's pretty darn convenient.:D

As an alternative to side pockets and a glove box, there was a great thread here on CC about center arm rests/consoles recently. You do need somewhere to put items such a your registration and insurance paperwork as well as some other basic items.

Looks like we are neighbors - car wise anyway. I'm chassis no. 782. Good luck with your car.

Dan

Spoke with my builder and here are some figures:

Idle around 900-1000rpm
Cruise at 1800-2000rpm

Torque:
500 ft-lb @ 2500rpm
~600 @ 4000rpm

HP:
300's @ 2000-3000rpm
600+ @ 5700rpm

Now I just have to figure out how I'm going to drive this thing.

Regarding pockets, I think I am going to do them. I'm also planning on doing a small strapped down cargo box in the trunk for emergency supplies, tools, registration, etc.

Good luck Dan, good to hear from a close build.

If you've got Poncho race history it's a start. You're just 1000 pounds lighter than anything else you drove.

Just work your way up to the car's limits gradually and only apply power in a straight line. Learning the brakes is as important as the power.

This is rather funny. I definitely see myself sitting in the car the first time and saying "Now I just have to figure out how I'm going to drive this thing." No doubt about that.

My original meaning was regarding my top end driving style. i.e. whether I'm going to be looking cruise in 5th at lower rpms and less engine noise with the .64 and deal with the wide shift or have it better spaced and available with the .82, yet have a higher rpm at speed.

decisions, decisions. then again, the G-Force T5 is tempting

I have my ERA on the road 4 years now, 6000 miles. I have driven it from high 90 degree temps down to low teens and never once did I wish it had heated seats. I did get the glove box and side pockets and im glad I did. I do wish I got the larger oil cooler, just for looks. I didnt think it was worth the extra money back then. Also, I would get the harness mount for the roll bar and the clip on shoulder harness. . Mine is bolted to the bulkhead behind the seat and to change it now I would have to recarpet the back because the carpet is crushed. Its all personal choices that you must make so you are happy with your car.
Im curious why nobody ever mentions the richmond when they talk of 5 speeds. Its a true 5 speed with 5th gear 1-1. I never did the math but how about it with a 3.08 gear. Has a low 1st and would cruise nice. There must be a reason though.

Richmonds work very well with 3.08's or 3.31's if you have 6800+ RPM to use.
They're generally hard to shift however.

I did the research and opted for the Richmond. Jim Holden had one with a 3.08 rear and thought it was fine. The 2.88 rear would be better for cruising, but Rick Lake steered me away from it because his experience was that particular set of gears was too weak.

I'm told that the Long shifter works well, particularly if you grease it up. I'll let everyone know how it works.

cobred I currently have my seat belts and rear bulkhead carpeting out and was considering my options. I'm not sure I like the look of the roll bar mount for the shoulder belts. I'm not a 100% sure but will probably just go back to the stock ERA confirguration.

Low teens and you didn't want heated seats? What were you wearing? A snow suit? I live in Northern California, have had mine on the road for 6 years and have nearly 30,000 miles on it. I've driven in 110 weather and lows in probably the 20's. I added seat heaters about 3 years ago and it's about the best $100 I ever spent. I use them regularly.

Regarding transmission, I have the Richmond 5 speed with 2.88 gears and I love the gear spacing. First gear is quite useable and I cruise at about 2700 RPMs at about 70-75 MPH. That's actually a great RPM range for the types of cams most of us run. My cam is designed for 2500-6500 rpms. As far as shifting goes, the Richmond is not the best shifting transmission I've ever owned. With the Long shifter, it does take a bit more time than you'd like to get it from gear to gear. Of course, I'm comparing it to an Muncie 4 spd with a short Hearst shifter that I use to have in a Chevelle. I'm guessing non of the TKOs will shift as well as that old 4 spd did. If I had it to do over again, I'd go with the same transmission and gearing.

Chris