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Looking for E.M. tech data
Anybody with a E.M. series III with jag rear know the suspension specs ? (both front and rear)
How about setting up the brake balance bar? Have very high pedal pressure with little braking effect. Wilwoods front and jags in back. Annnnnd; where can I get spanners for the Aldan shocks and how are the adjustment knobs calibrated (1-6? soft to stiff?) TIA Ted R |
You can contact Aldan at www.aldaneagle.com and go through their E-mail link to ask about adjustments. They do sell the spanner wrench you are looking for. I'll try and contact some of my friends who used to work for E-M in Florida to ask about the balance bar adjustments. I hope I've been some help to you. Good luck!
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Ex-cb;
Thanks for the link, I'll give it a shot. |
MOTORHEAD,
I have an E-M. I think it's a Series 3 :o It has Jag 3.8S rear axles and wishbones with four Aldan shocks. Not sure what you mean by "suspension specs" but if you can be a bit more specific I'll try to help. My front suspension is Mustang II with a 1993 power steering rack and Aldan shocks. I believe the higher numbers are stiffer settings on the shocks. Keep in mind that with the single adjustment Aldans, the only adjustment is for rebound. If you have the double adjustables, then it's both ways. I have a single master cylinder with power brakes so no help on balance bar; I use one master cylinder and a manual proportioning valve. My fronts are 13" Mustang Cobra brakes. The booster is from a Subaru. Works well. Dunno if this helps, Tom |
Hi Tom, thanks for the reply! By specs I mean caster, camber, toe settings.
The brakes are jag rear, wilwood front, separate tilton masters for front and rear. The aldan site gave me the info I was looking for regarding the shocks, thanks for the lead. Our front suspension is (I believe) E.M. built-up tubular a-arms. & someones forged spindles. Ted R. |
Not to put too fine a point on it but most "single adjustment" shocks, the adjustment actually does change both compression and rebound. The difference is the effect (of the adjustment) on compression is maybe 1/10(?) of the effect on rebound....much less noticable and certainly not as independent as it would be on double adjustable.
My 2 cents. |
I'm no expert, but I'll take a shot at the brake balance bar question. Unless the bar is way off to one side, making the rear brakes do all the work, I don't think it would cause a hard pedal with little braking action. A more likely cause is either a mismatch between the master cylinder diameter and the wheel caliper diameters (e.g., MC diameter is too large), or too short a lever arm on the brake pedal. Either of these conditions can cause the driver to have to exert very high pedal pressure to cause enough movement in the calipers to stop the car.
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MOTORHEAD,
Here's a rear setting that I found on the internet: Rear Wheel Camber Angle 3/4°±1/4°negative Rear Wheel Alignment Parallel ±1/32 in. Read more: http://www.justanswer.com/questions/...#ixzz0jwXByao5 There are shims next to the differential that are used to set the camber. Also, be very sure your rear wheel bearings are good and set properly before you start changing anything in the rear, otherwise you could just start chasing your tail. I use CWI for all my Jag rear info, see here: http://www.cwiinc.com/index.html Mike is a really good source for Jag rear info, parts and service. As to the front, mine has the E-M Pinto spindles with E-M tubular A-arms. I use 1/16" toe-in, a fair amount of caster and camber, maybe 3-1/2 to 4 degrees positive (spindle leaning toward the rear at its top) caster (I have power steering, for manual you might want a degree or so less) and a bit of positive camber which I forgot exactly, sorry. If you do a search on the caster/camber specs you should be able to find a bit more specific data... Tom |
Tom & Tommy: Thanks guys, good info!
Ted |
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