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FE TALK
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http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/fe-talk/)
| wrench87 |
12-02-2009 05:56 AM |
edelbrock performer rpm intake bolt question
i just purchased the 7105 performer rpm intake for my 445 build, i had purchased the arp fe intake bolt kit but they are not even close. would any one know off hand what length bolts i need for this intake? the heads are at the machine shop and i would like to get the right length or atleast the depth of the holes on the heads?.
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| kitcarbp |
12-02-2009 07:16 AM |
In my limited experience with aftermarket parts, you should wait till the heads are installed and then measure depth of every bolt hole for the intake mounting. Sometimes the bolt boss casting(s) in the intake are at different heights compared to the OE intake as an example, thus requiring non OE bolt lengths. Been there done that. Don't forget to use the thick sturdy washers that either ARP and Edelbrock include with their kits so you have good bolt torque retention.
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| wrench87 |
12-02-2009 08:22 AM |
that is good advise, i dont understand how arp only sells one fe intake bolt kit with all the different intakes out there, i did just find that edelbrock makes a specific kit for this intake but there bolts look like crap compared to the arp ones.
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| Cobrabill |
12-02-2009 09:26 AM |
My Performer RPM came with the valve cover bolt holes"splayed",pushrod hole were off in one direction on one side and in the other direction on the other side.Simply disgusting QC.
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I made a stainless steel intake "stud kit" and am currently running it on my Ebock head Pond 482. I slotted the ends to enable install and removal by screw driver. I have had the intake off 2 or 3 times with the studs and they work like a charm. With studs you now have the ability to bolt down accessories such as fuel logs, fuel regulator and carb linkages. That's especially valuable on my Tunnel Wedge intake as it's pretty bare when it comes to bolting things to it.
BTW... ARP's FE intake bolt kit is really designed for OEM iron heads. You don't get enough "reach-down" to grab enough aluminum to keep from pulling threads out. Ask me how I know. With the studs I can torque the snot out of the nuts with z-e-r-o worries about screwing up a set of expensive CNC'd aluminum heads.
Dave
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| wrench87 |
12-03-2009 09:43 AM |
undy, is it possible to install all the studs and drop the intake on?, or do you have to install them afterwards?. also do you remember the lengths of the studs?. i am using studs for my valve covers and oil pan windage tray. it would be nice to find the studs that you can use a allen wrench on to tighten.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrench87
(Post 1006386)
undy, is it possible to install all the studs and drop the intake on?, or do you have to install them afterwards?. also do you remember the lengths of the studs?. i am using studs for my valve covers and oil pan windage tray. it would be nice to find the studs that you can use a allen wrench on to tighten.
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As Cobrabill said the intake bolts are splayed. You can't remove or install the intake with the studs in place. Once you set the intake you just simply screw the studs in, no big thing. Unfortunately there's no one that makes intake studs for an FE so allen headed studs aren't there. The screw drive slot works fine anyway. I got a 3' piece of hardened 304 stainless steel all-thread (12 bucks) and spent 30 minutes making the kit. They'll pull down 35 ftlbs dead solid with no stud or thread flex. It's a great mod!!
dave |
| Cobrabill |
12-03-2009 12:27 PM |
Dave,you are correct,but i was saying that the bolt holes for the VALVE COVERS came splayed from Edelbrock.THis ain't good.
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| Rick Parker |
12-03-2009 12:31 PM |
Determine the difference in the thickness of the manifold faces and add the difference to the OEM bolt length and reorder or exchange..........You don't need to have the heads in hand.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobrabill
(Post 1006439)
Dave,you are correct,but i was saying that the bolt holes for the VALVE COVERS came splayed from Edelbrock.THis ain't good.
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Sorry, mis-read your post and jumped to a conclusion.. Yep, splayed valve cover bolt holes are not a good thing. They can make the valve covers very hard to install. |
| lovehamr |
12-04-2009 01:04 PM |
I'm using Holman Moody VCs which use very long VC bolts and found that the VC bolt holes in my Ebock heads were either not straight or in one instance, not there at all. That's right, one bolt hole was never drilled. Guess when I found out about it?:rolleyes: Then the stainless bolts that came with the VCs were crap as well. I sheared one with a T handle allen wrench, guess where the rest of the bolt stayed. That was more fun.:LOL:
Steve
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