Brent- "There's a big difference between a 14 lb flywheel and a 20 lb flywheel.....and it has a great affect on how the engine behaves down low".

Can you explain the difference's down low please ?

Also from low, mid to upper rpm, as you're driving mild and as you're going through the gears fast. I've never had a alum. flywheel so these questions are very interesting to me.

Thank you everyone for your views and opinions.
All this aluminium stuff is very interesting, but I don't have an aluminium flywheel and wasn't intending on buying one. :)
I already have the items stated and I wanted to know which one would be best. The steel item is quoted as being 40lb on the McLeod website. That seems very heavy for a lightweight Cobra. The cast one is part number C80E-A.
Thanks again.
Paul

PLDRIVE,

I like the twin disc clutches. Both RAM & McLeod have great setups. The reason they don't come up much in conversations is because of the price. They are very expensive, with the RAM twin disc being one of the highest because the kit comes with the flywheel.

Kevin, I was referring back to the post I made about taking off from a dead stop...or on a hill. You can tell a difference between flywheel weights as the heavier wheels give you a "helping hand" in that area. Otherwise, the aluminum wheels cause the engine to feel more "zippy" as Undy put it.

Fatboy, I would never use a cast iron flywheel when you have a steel flywheel as a choice. A 40 year old cast iron wheel just doesn't have the integrity to hold up at higher horsepower levels and higher rpms.

Hmmm... I always perceived Centerforce as the "bottom end" of the clutch /flywheel food chain. Their price dictates oterwise in your case..:confused: I always had poor luck (slippage) with their clutches. Admittedly, it's been over 10 years since I used any of their products.

True dat, The only thing an OEM CI flywheel is good for in performance applications is a v-e-r-y heavy paperweight. I don't care if you've a blow-proof bellhousing or not. With everything that's at risk why tempt fate to save several hundred dollars??? It's just not a case of the bellhousing containing the damage and stopping personal injury. While that crap's banging around inside it's also tearing other other items up too, tranny, input shaft, block plate etc... Why knowingly take the chance?:confused:

It seems to hold alright, foot pressure is fine for me, but might be a little heavy for others -- but I have a larger MC so I can move the pedal back a little for leg room. My 295 Yokos break loose long before the clutch gets any real heavy stress on it, and I probably only "dump" the clutch hard once or twice a year. I think in my case there was a "perceived benefit" in having all the components just line up and go together. I adjust the clutch once a year. Considering the car sits in a bag in the garage six months out of the year, the damn clutch will probably outlive me.

From an engineering standpoint, going from a 37# flywheel to a 20# flywheel represents a reduction in the moment of inertia (MOI) of approximately 27% for the entire flywheel/clutch assembly. That sounds like a lot and most drivers will notice SUBTLE differences in performance. I say subtle differences because I've driven 30#, 20#, and 14# stock diameter flywheels and I've driven 7-1/4" button clutches (no flywheel) that weigh 15# for the entire clutch assembly. Until you get into the small diameter, lightweight racing stuff, the differences in drivabilty are very minor. Compared to the 37# wheel, the 7-1/4" assembly represents almost a 1000% reduction in MOI. The Cobra is a light enough car that I drove the button clutch on the street for a year. Yes, I had to make adjustments to driving technique, but that was not a major issue. What my experience with clutches and flywheels has taught me is that from a drivability standpoint, the Cobra is light enough to use any clutch/flywheel. But, from a durability standpoint, a clutch that is light enough to make a significant difference in performance is not able to hold up to heat (unless it's carbon), so the lifespan is very short on the street. That said, IMHO there is no such thing as a street-style flywheel/clutch that is too light for a Cobra. If I was buying new for the street, I go with aluminum. If I was buying new and I wanted to spend $6500, I'd buy a carbon multi-disc clutch and have durability and performance. But, if I already had a steel flywheel I'd use it... the performance and drivabilty differences in the stock-style stuff are just too minor to me.


Ultimate street clutch:
http://www.lgmotorsports.com/catalog...c7f9610b5be9df