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Excellent Ernie! except the Blah Blah on the traffic whatnots ;)
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if that oil temp gauge isn't over 100c your not even trying!
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The Devil Hates a Coward LOL
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I hear footsteps......................
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I don't drink Bizoh
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So this is for Pat and Ernie, because you guys love this stuff...if I run straight 40W and it reads 100C with a hard pounding, will it read any differently with 10W-30, all other things being equal?
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less oil pressure at least
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Straight 40 is most likely perfect for you local.
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It is all about flow anyway. High flow is preferable, to keep oil moving across all surfaces.
If you want high pressure......you are not getting flow. Elmariachi lives in Texas. Hot Hot Hot so start-up with a 40 weight is no problem. It is a fact that you get more real oil out of a straight weight than a multi, because of all the additives in a multi weight. So in this scenario 40 weight is most likely perfect for him. What pressure are you getting now? |
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Perfect!
You are good to go Sir! |
That would be a pretty high flow motor. Thats what keeps the bearings cool.
Beat that SOB as hard as you want and you will never kill it! JB :) |
Interesting question El, I have never used any straight weight oil, 40 or 50 or whatever so have no personal knowledge of what the difference might be. Generally speaking, I would think most 40 or 50 wt straight weight oils would be a "racing oil"? As such, it is unlikely they contain any cleansing additives, which means if they are not changed often and soon it will lead to "gunk" and nasty stuff inside the engine.
This I know from personal experience having worked on a few motors where the owners only used "race" oil and changed it just like any other oil, not nearly often enough!!! Substantial crud build up was found in the engines on tear down for various reasons. The most severe case a 454 Chevy SS truck that was used to tow a race car. The truck itself was never raced, he just used the same oil as he did for the race car. But he changed the race car engine oil pretty regular, unlike the truck. It was SO nasty, he went with a crate motor to replace it. |
No worries on oil changes here. I am sure everyone changes it even more than necessary.
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Flow is the key.
My engine has the connecting rods out of either Dale Jarrets or Elliot Sadlers cup car when they ran for Yates. Lentz rods, basically unobtainium. Chrome crank and assorted whatknots. It looks really plain Jane from the outside ;) My builder is not a name brand guy, His name is Doug Meyer He doesn't look for business because he is too busy making sprint car engines etc.. My best buddy is his chief cylinder head man. I know this SOB is right. Runs pretty low pressure because they are all about "the flow" |
For the millionth time your oil pump is a positive displacement pump. Regardless of oil pressure flow is the same EXCEPT when you exceed 60 psig. 60 psig is when most oil pump internal relief valve relieve. This means you get LESS flow with heavier oil because the oil pump relief valve open with less flow do to higher flow resistance and dumps to the oil pan instead of going to the engine. So with lighter oil you get more flow when close to 60 psig, you get better cooling and you get lubrication. No reason to run anything heavier than 10W30. You are much better off running zinc additive then heavier oil although with a roller engine you dont need anything.
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