Port matching E'brock heads
 

I have to port match my E'brock heads to the weber (H&M) intake manifold I bought (used) with the weber carbs. The intake ports had been hogged out a good bit, and I've scribed the heads with the larger dimensions. What I'm trying to determine is there enough "meat" in the heads to take the intake ports out about 1/8" top and bottom, and about 1/16" side to side ?
Anybody ported their e'brock heads, and if so, how much material did you remove, and how deep into the port did you go ?:confused:
Could find nothing on e'brock website.
Ted

How does a new H&M intake compare to what you have. Was it previously matched to a much bigger intake port. If yes, what you are trying to do may not be possible. Matching used can be very difficult.

Buy Jay Brown's new book The Great FE Intake Comparo!

The Great FE Intake Comparo

You will get some information about port matching and also about the Blue Thunder Weber intake.

According to the book you should leave the bottom as is and only match the top and sides.

You should be fine with 1/8-1/8-1/16-1/16. Just run your transition about a 1/2" into the heads, top and sides. Avoid any sharp angles or edges.

Go to a good machine shop
 

Motorhead Ted when you get this thin with trying to seal 2 parts togeather and both are aluminum, you come out with leaks alot of times. Unless the block,heads and manifold where all machined to match angles and surfaces, you could have a problem. IMO a 1/16" is not enought of a edge for a seal to last more that say 20-50 heat cycles. Adding a sealer like Hi-Tac will help to seal the thin edge if this is on felpro 1247 gaskets
The best thing is to go to a welder first and have them tig a wider lip around the intake manifold. For the heads you want to go in about 1.5" and just Smooth out the port a little to match the intake. Leave the bottom of the port alone. You get little to no added flow by porting at the bottom.
Most of the power from head work is around the valve stem area. There are numbers of about 85-89% of the port to the valve size. This will get you the best numbers of flow and have the motor still make good power low in the idle to 2,500 rpms.
It might be better to have a pro do this like Keith Craft. CNC the heads for you and do the match work on the intake. It is easy to grind a thin wall of a pushrod hole. I have done this on a edelbrock set of heads for another brand. It look easy but takes alot of time to get right. Get it right you are a hero, get wrong and the repair could be hundreds. If you have done this before, try it but, watch out for thin walls. I have seen tubes needed on the FE head when guys on both forumns thought they could do port work.
If you are looking for power, how are the side pipes?? Rick L.

I think it might be cheaper to get a new intake and port match it to your heads.

Thanks for the info guys. The heads really only need port matching, and it doesn't look as daunting this morning as it did last night !
Rick: I'm not using the felpro gaskets, but special 1/8" thick and larger around the ports.
They are available through Barry Robotnik @ Survival Motorsports. The extra thickness makes for a better fit with the milled intake and heads.
Undy: That sounds reasonable to me.
Hans: Looks like a good reference . I'll get one regardless.
W.: The intake ports are larger than the out-of-box E'brocks by the dimensions stated in my original post, but far from hi-riser dimensions. It had to have been mated to ported E'brock or FE iron heads, the only 2 options for FE heads that I'm aware of.
Carmine:I tried for a new manifold originally, but could not find one . This one came with the carbs, so I went down that road. I may change it out if it doesn't work out.

Is it the straight manifold or the one with 10 degrees angle?

The Blue Thunder 10 degree manifold can be bought from many companies like e.g. Barry Robotnik @ Survival Motorsports.