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Elmar-----, I'm sure you are right. I am a rook when it comes to FE's. I don't know the ins & outs of positive & neutral ventilation, I'm just trying to stop oil mist on the underside of my ride. My sideoiler only has 5700 miles on the rebuild; and in talking with Lee Holmon last week, He said if I kept the engine @ 6500 rpm's or less. I could expect 50K(rev limit set @ 6300) before the next refresh. You guys are way more experienced than I in FE's. I've always been a sbf guy until now. thou I've been hooked on them sence my 1st ride in a FE/AC 40+ yrs ago. As my engine stands now; she is a screaming banshee!! She just blows enough oil, that I'm required to wipe down the under carrage more than I'd like. Do you think I should take a different path to oil leak prevention? Thanks :)
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If I were smart, I would log off because I don't want my name or alias anywhere associated with the L word. But I am not smart.
Assuming its blowing out and not leaking out, that should be able to be solved with proper PCV I would think. You seem to have a neutral system in place that isn't working, so if it were me and losing that much oil I would get some PCV going between the valve covers and the carb/intake first and see if that stops it. If it does, then you need to figure out how to plumb it up to suit you. If it doesn't then you might need to look into doing some internal engine testing to see what's up causing so much blow-by. |
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I have no vac advance dizzy and carb secondary vac comes higher up above the baseplate. All that open breather area is not doing what you need. At one time, I had four open breathers at once and still had mist and drips from pan to valve covers. This is the fix I've needed all along. |
Thank you very much! Both! :) I was able to locate 3/8 carb vac. point (blocked off) via borescope. Final questions? (1) Is it better to connect the pcv from the rear breather point to the carb base plate? (2) from the carb vac. point to the valve cover? (3) or both?
Thanks guys. PS I just used borescope to look high & low of turkey pan to ensure largest vac. point |
Yes just because you don't need vacuum for a distributor or brakes has nothing to do with needing a PCV valve or system. The one-way PCV valve simply ensures that as manifold vacuum decreases (which is when blow-by starts to increase), the valve can open and allow the crankcase pressure to make its way back into the combustion cycle.
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Yes to 1 connection point; intake manifold to carb. Or valve cover to carb? Largest carb vac. point 5/16" or 3/8", haven't measured yet.
On second thought, I'm going w/pcv hook up from valve cover to carb 1st. Will install non breathing oil filler cap & test. Leaving only the rear intake breather & breather on puke tank. Will report back in few days when weather clears. Thanks again. |
Installed the same set up you have on your ride Chas. It works da balls! :3DSMILE: Thanks all!
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Should I wait before I build my fe? |
Time Waits For No Man...
If you wait for the coming of a completely dry FE, your epitaph will read "He never did build that engine he always wanted.":(
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Its possible to have a dry F.E. Kroyer built the Shelby aluminum 468 inch engine in csx car. The last car show car was shown, Mustangs Plus Stockton ca. oct 2011, at least 3 people I know of were under the car and when I approached them , asking what was up, they said they were looking to see if I had oil leaks. I hate oil leaks as much as anyone, looked under several cars with Kroyer engines in them , and no leaks. Not sure what tricks Kroyer used, maybe dodge or chevy seals ? I do know the engine, entire car does not leak oil. I park car on 4 post lift when not in use and look over every time bring car back to garage, still dry as a bone.
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