427 FE Suggestions?
 

As I stated in my first post, I'll be installing an FE in my '68 Torino. The block is one of the dreaded service blocks. That doesn't bother me a bit as my last 427 used a service block and went over 30K miles w/no problem. However, I would like to know what the "V" code means? I've heard conflicting stories.

My main concern is what carb and ignition to use. Some particulars on this engine are as follows:

oem hi-riser heads
oem single 4 intake
11:1 cr
solid flat tappet cam w/600 lift 296 duration
1UA crank

Engine will be mated to a close ratio toploader w/3.55 gears. This car in all likelyhood won't have more than a few hundred miles put on it each year w/an occasional trip to the local strip where most everybody around here has the distributor on the wrong end of the block.

And, as I stated earlier, it's been several decades since I've tinkered w/one of these beauties so any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Brad in Central Oregon

I think 11:1 with cast iron heads is too much for pump gas. You should check with some good builders who know FE engines, if you want to run pump gas.

I think the V stands for "Very likely to leak":D


Ditto on the 11:1 pump gas with OEM design combustion chambers and Iron Heads.
However if you are only planning on driving it the stated mileage, add some 100 octane unleaded race gas and enjoy.

Fe
 

I have a couple of Cobra buddies with 428/427 Keith Craft FEs making over 600 hp / 620 tq with 9 to 9.25 compression.

Why do you want 11:1?

Dwight

Nice. That does explain why bbf owners epoxy their garage/shop floors....


Anybody using a Pertronix ignition? Good, bad?

First of all, I'm cheap. I won't pay the tariff for a KC build. I may pay for it in the long run. Time will tell.

That's the way it came. I figure some blue gas will take care of that problem.

Depending on Gas in the area, Got E-85??
 

4EVER FE Brad Here's a couple of ideas ups sides and downs,
Is the "V" sand casted into the block surface?
As far as the motor build, compression is high with iron heads. If you like pinging and knocking you are on the right track without octane boosters
E-85 will help alot and you can keep the compression. Power will be less that straight gas or track gas.
Watch your timing total and timing curve.
If you are going to run any gas now you are better to run SS lines and NO rubber. The rubber hoses break down with the E-85 gas and even pumped gas for you local station over time.
IF you have a VIRGIN set of highriser heads and intake manifold without any repair or machine work, SELL THEM. 2,500.00-3,000.00 easy in worth to someone for racing a thunderbolt car.
Go over to the FE forum and also put this question to the guys over there.
As for motor, sonic check all the bores first. If everything checks out OK then IMO I would buy a storker kit and build a 466 to 482 with this block. Get a 4.25 kit with BBC rods and get pistons that require the least amount of bore work needed. Diamond will make an custom piston for your motor with 4.23 and up. Get a good oil pump and run a 80# spring in it with 7 quart pan and over fill 1 quart. This is due to the gearing and the trans you have. Torque moves the car not HP.
In the last 4-5 years 80% of the guys have gone to roller camshaft setups. Depending on rpm range either hydros or solids. Hydros need less maintainance and you loss about 20-30 HP in top end, depending on setup of valve train and other issues. Alot of the additives have been removed from oil of past. Solid lifter motors have suffered more failures that hydro lifter ones. Valve lash being correct and oil additives, are a must for motor life. I run a 15W-40 Rotella oil in my motors with Lucas oil suppliment. PRE oiling motor before startup is IMO also a big plus. accusump 2 or 3 Quart setup will help on startups and stop metal on metal rubbing until oil pressure is built up. 85% of wear is on starting this has not changed since day 1.
Ignition The new guy on the block is "ICE" and is better than MSD and price is higher. MSD I have been running for 16 years. Caps and rotors are their only problem I have found. Some guys run standard over the counter caps with solid buttom in the centered and not carbon piles, same for rotors with thicker conact spring. Phazing distributor is a must. I run an HVC "E" coil and no problems. Oil filled coils need to be mounted vertical to help control the heating of it. I also don't like coils mounted on motors because of vibrations help break down winding. As far a Pertronics I have never used them but do know that you have to watch the voltage going to the system. They run 8 to 10 volts in this safe range. Again goto FE forum, couple of guys run them and have figured out and found issues to correct failures. Over chargin system is 1.
Carb, Here's another endless possiblities. Smaller carb, higher vacuum signal better responce, better drivibility. You could run a 450 cfm. or a 1,200 cfm dominator. My rule is bigger is not better. There are custom carbs in the $600.00 tp 1,000.00 range that will give you the best of all worlds with custom blocks and many jets and bleed jets to work with. The other thing is are you going with a choke?? If you limit the rpms to 6,500 a 650 DFDP will work great. You will lose a couple of HP in the top end, this is a street car. You are also running cruising gears. IMO I wouldn't go bigger than a 750-780DPDF cfm . That cam is going to give you low vacuum signal to run a vacuum power valve. If you are looking for the best overall power, buying an Air/ Fuel meter and watching the readings will help get max power in all ranges from the motor. Need to install a bung for the o2 sensor in exhaust. Exhaust run a 2 1/2" dual. You need a little back pressure to help the torque power curve. +1-2 psi HG at WOT is a good number and will not hurt HP. You would be better to build a torque motor with the weight of your car. If you want to talk more send a p-m to me. Rick L. Ps MATCHING parts is the best way to get max power, drivibilty, and enjoyment. Alot of guys have put the wrong thing together and are unhappy with car when done. Buy a rocker system with end shafts support mounts and rollers on both body of rockers and end over the valve. Also get,make or buy a pushrod checker and get the correct length. Watch that the pushrods don't rub on the intake manifold of during complete range. I run a beehive spring with a 6,200 rpm limit. Make sure you have enough spring to control valves and valve train at whatever your max rpms will be. Dyno motor and this will tell you. 500 rpm pass max HP. Anything after this is just wasteing the motor.ARP fasteners also through out. Good luck. Rick L.

Real high riser stuff is very cool. Collector items really since it was only a couple years production at best. Pretty tough fit but do-able in the Torino - high risers have a different valve cover mounting angle that will put the covers into the brake cylinder. You'll be doing some surgery to covers, brakes, or both.

With the 428 crank it'll be a fun street racer style hot rod. The compression is on the high side - but this ain't some grocery store queen and you're gonna spike the fuel so it's OK. Don't let 'em scare you. That wide ratio might want more gear than a 3.55 in a 3700+ pound Torino - I have one...

The service block is perfectly fine. Nothing wrong with them - just normal sonic check and go. I've run a few Petronix - they seem to work OK - a little fussy on hookups but fine once sorted. Oil filled coils were mounted on the side on every FE for decades from Ford - not sure where that came from....

At LEAST a 750 double pumper on that piece and it'd bee better with an 830 or 850. Quick Fuel has a pretty nice 850 but it's color might not work with the vintage "vibe" this combo will have.

Had 2 of them go bad Barry
 

Barry R. I think if you talk to ignition techs they will tell you to avoid mounting a oil filled coil on it's side and to put it on a non vibrating surface. Some coils have a vent on them. I have had 2 go bad over the years and blown a Accel super coil up. 4 wheeling in Penn. The motorcraft one had burnt coil windings on half the unit that was on the high side of the motor. This coil was laying horizontal. No oil was cooling the windings and over time it cooked. The standard one for a ford blew the top off and left me on the side of the road in VA. Thanks to some nice people back in the 70's I was able to get a guy to open his auto store and get the part. This coil had a ballast resister fail but the other one just burnt up. I cut it open to see what happen when I had no resistance between terminals. I also know that the oil can foam inside the coil housing and again smoke the windings. Coil cools off and works great, run for a couple of hours and shut down weak spark. MSD tells not to mount there 8202 coil horizontial for the same issues as above. This makes good sense. This is old school, I have seen coils mount upside down, for what reason,UNKNOW. Have a good one. Rick L. Ps talk to you about 8 sleeves, you are right but not recomended unless upper and lower block is solid for 1 1/2". Some machinist also block hard the bottom till it's at the freeze out holes for stablity. Later

"Old School"? Seriously. I'm going w/a Mallory dp and a Holley 1050 cfm. The heads are not "virgin". The block is.

ABTW, torque gets you launched, horsepower gets you through the traps....

Yeah, on it's backside. I'll put up a pic if that'll help.