A vac secondary carb is certainly do-able...

However, with that being said, no one just jumps in *any* car and puts the pedal to the floor. It's going to be the same with the Cobra....you get in, and you drive it the way you need to drive it.

These cars are not death traps if you have some common sense and are cautious. The worst part about them is the short wheelbase....if you get one crossed up, it's going to take a lot of work on your part to get it straightened back out.

Keep in mind though, that it's going to be like that with almost any car that weighs 2200-2400 lbs and has more than 300 hp....

Kevin, are you doing the build or is ERA?

I'm having ERA bond the body and send it out for paint. I'm doing the rest. ERA's kits seem pretty straight forward compared to some others that I looked at so, even with limited experience, I'm sure I can get through it just fine.

Regards,

Kevin

Kevin, please make sure you keep your build threads on track.

At almost every corner, there will be someone to point out that we all need to pay with our "throwaway" cash for our builds, financing is bad. And if and when you decide to skip the 2nd roll bar, you do not nor have you ever loved your future passengers because of the unlikely event of a roll over.

Best of luck with your build. ERA's are one of the finest Cobra replicas. You chose wisely.

He doesn't want a second roll bar and he's paying cash.:p

I didn't know you were his wife and his accountant. **)

Patrick is correct - I don't want a second roll bar. As for paying cash I may have to so my wife doesn't learn the extent of budget creep. :(

Well if I was I'd buy him a solid lifter cam first.:cool:

Also, while you're at it, please don't forget to buy Kevin a better balancer, because AFAIK, Pioneer only makes good home theater electronics and large screen TV's. :LOL:

See? We don't have to search the archives for your epic trials--we can remember all of them. Like the hardware store spring on the clutch fork.....**)

I think winter's almost over -- she could be coming out of the bag early this year.;)

Kevin, we are like all those neighbors when you were a kid and moved into a new neighborhood. We aren't really so much interested in you as wanting to pilfer through and see what kind of cool s&^! you have. Build that bad boy your way and go become one with it. And please post pics as you go.

Jim

Will do. I've already started a parts list:

hardware store spring for the clutch
zip ties for the secondaries
3 rolls of duct tape

I'm just finishing up the paint work on my ERA and getting ready to start assembly. Some actual things you will need or may need:

- I think they rivet in all the panels when you have them bond the body so you can skip most of the rivet work.
- Some form of underlayment for vibration and heat control on the aluminum interior panels. I'm using a combo of EZ Cool and BQuiet.
- Some form of undercoating or bedliner for the wheel wells. The coremat will protect the finish but you may want to coat it and the aluminum panels for blackout and noise control.
- Some material or plan for finishing out the trunk interior. I got carpet from ERA but it's not standard.
- I plan on coating the engine compartment panels with a clear protectant - SharkHide from Eastwood
- Tires/Wheels
- Engine/Clutch/Starter/Flywheel/Alternator/Engine mounts/Pulleys/Fan belt/Battery cables/Battery/Radiator hoses/Bellhousing/pilot bearing/throw out bearing/clutch fork/Air Cleaner/fastners (AARP probably) for all prior items.

Nothing that ERA doesn't have covered in their manual. If you haven't already, ask ERA for a copy of the complete manual now so you can be studying it.

Good luck

Hey Kev, southern OH, former airbase, lots of power....... jus sayin' ;)
East Coast Timing Association

Hi Dan,

I was just giving Patrick a bit of good-natured ribbing in the previous post with the parts list, but you bring up a good topic. I visited ERA and got a manual. I've read it through and will be starting through it for the second time very soon. Most of the things you've mentioned in your list I'm aware of but wasn't clear on how much drilling would be required for mounting the panels. I know they pre-punch the firewall but figured I'd be on my own for the rest. I've also got their optional trunk carpeting that you mentioned on my list. In fact, I think I have practically every option they offer in a speadsheet for consideration (thus the comment about budget creep in an earlier post). I also have notes about a couple types of undercoating I've read about in posts on this forum.

I'm currently learning that a crate engine doesn't mean it's complete and ready to install...so I'll review the list you provided - pretty sure I've got those things covered or am aware of them. I will be looking at the manual or asking ERA about pulley options, since I now know there are a number of options.

Another thing I've wondered about is treating the engine components with some type of clear coat or protectant, so thanks for that - I'll look into Sharkskin.

I appreciate all this great help.

Regards,

Kevin

Thanks, that would be perfect except it is over 500 miles and 9 hours away. I did a lot of motorcycle drag racing in the mid-70's on an old airport runway in Alabama. Don't think it's in operation anymore, but those types of facilities are awesome. I know it kept me from doing stupid things on the streets (instead I did even more stupid things on the runway :D).

Thanks,

Kevin

Kevin, let us know what sort of options you're opting for. Some of the "little ones," like the extra venting and shielding around the primaries, really makes a difference. Instead of rivets, you might consider using a Marson Thread-Setter Tool. It lets you set a nice machine screw installation instead of a rivet. In fact, one of my first projects when I get her out of hibernation this spring will be to put in an access panel on the tunnel to service the front u-joint (which you can't get to if you have the outboard braked rear and handbrake). I'll use the Marson on that and post pics, of course. Here's the tool:

http://www.toolup.com/images/Product...MARS-39200.jpg

Hmmm...something to consider - I'll read up on the Marson Thread-Setter Tool. As for options:

Smith gauges, leather, ss sidepipes, heater, powder-coated frame, glovebox, soft top, side curtains, tonneau, sway bars (maybe just front for street driving?), wheel housing vents (Peter actually tried to talk me out of those, but I think they will make a big difference so will get them. Don't know about shielding around primaries?), 5 pin wheels, Mickey Thompson tires, dual front fans (love the look), oil cooler (would look empty without it - may not even hook it up), trunk carpet, fluted switches, coolant tank, insulation on outside of footboxes, ERA floor mats, round tail lights/reflector shields.

Still have my configuration with the standard Jag rear-end with inboard brakes. Have it in my list of questions to discuss with Peter. If I'm reading their website correctly, the optional ERA rear includes the adaptors for the pin wheels (it isn't clear on 5 or 6 pin). If that is the case, then the cost difference to upgrade to the ERA outboard setup isn't as much as listed because with the Jag rear I'd have to buy the adaptors. Haven't priced it out yet so don't know the cost yet. I don't need the ERA rear since I'm not going to track the car, but it seems to be a desirable option and may play into the value of the car.

Also, I initially had the brake/clutch fluid reproduction resevoirs on the list, but Peter crossed them out and put in BMW single reservoir. I think that's the see-through plastic reservoir - will have to ask. Peter probably noticed the sweat beads forming on my forehead as I was doing the math in my head and was trying to help me out a bit :CRY:

I'm bad about wanting options, as you can see. Did the same thing with my Harley and chrome/accessories. My wife finally asked me why I didn't just have the bike dipped in chrome. I responded with a look like I thought that was a good idea and she just shook her head and walked away...

Kevin

Kevin, good luck with your project. I have a KC 482 w. stage II heads and 600 hp in a 2100 lb. Kirkham. The motor runs great, plenty of torque, but the only thing I would add to the comments the others have made is that with the configuration I have I have to run the engine at about 2000 rpm all of the time in order to keep it from lugging. That pretty much implies a gas mileage figure of ~10 mpg. The cam, rear end ratio and head configuration you pick will have the greatest effect on your mileage goals.