427 Crankcase Ventilation
 

427 Shelby Aluminum Motor

Recently rebuilt, since rebuild having difficulty sealing it up and
getting oil leak free. Vented out the rear of the intake manifold into
puke tank as typical in Cobras.

Uncertain how to determine if this is adequate ventilation
for this particular application.

Each engine is different but assuming no other anomalies creating excessive blow by, I found that setup to work. Where is it leaking (or where is not it NOT leaking.) Do you have sealed pent roof valve covers?

How is the puke tank plumbed?

Why not run a PCV valve?
 

Virgil I have a shelby motor and race 98% of the time. The best way I found is to install a PCV valve in the right side of the motor and a breather in the l/s valve cover. No leaks in 15 years. I did in year 16 blow a small piece of cork valve cover gasket out and have a small oil fire. No damage to car. My fault for running the same gaskets for so many years. You could be building up too much pressure in the motor. The rebuilt motor hasn't sealed in the new rings yet. Rick L.

Hello Rick.
What part # for the pcv that you are using for your big block 427.
I am asking because i have a 427 351 based stroker and i believe i should be running same pcv as big block 427.

Nick (Mickmate),
Where should the road draft tube end? Transmission/bellhousing area or farther back?

You got my point, puke tank needs venting. The draft tube as they had originally just runs down and stops by the bell housing. I think if it's too long you'd get a siphon effect from it. There's a good thread with pictures on here somewhere explaining all the hook ups and routing.
Draft tube?? I don't use a draft tube they're not environmentally friendly!! ;-)

I use the stock one from catalog
 

Carmine I use the stock one in the tuneup parts for tune ups. I don't have the number. I just looked up FE motors from 1980's and they are all the same and went with that. 3/8" hose to the back of the throttle body housing. Works fine on my motor. I don't have a big camshaft in the 482 and have vacuum of between -12-13pounds at idle. I think if you have a huge camshaft, the PCV may only work partially with a poor vacuum signal. This is the reason some of the guys run vacuum pumps on there car. Let me break this down,
Vacuum pump in the vacuum line for brakes help keep enough pressure for a good pedal. it also assist motor to not show a load on the vacuum system.
Vacuum pump a dry sump or wet sump system help rings to seal better to the cylinder walls, controls oil mist in motor and returns it to liquid forum in pan or tank depending on setup. Also seals motor from leaks going out ward or inward. For a street motor, you want to run no more than 10-12 pounds of negative pressure in the motor. any thing more and you may start to suck oil through seals and have issues of drivibility.
Stock PCV valve for your motor and see how it runs. Rick L.

Rick,

How about running a line from the valve cover (or both covers) to a downstream (cooler) area of the exhaust system, getting rid of the vapor, and creating vacuum.....thoughts?
Piping into the header would be easier but high-temp materials would have to be used.
I have seen this on my friends 409 drag car and he has said it works with no problem.

I know the system you are talking about
 

bret a ewing Bret Mr Gasket, Morroso and Steff sell that system and have for the last 50 years. It had 1 way check valves into the exhaust system or headers. I didn't like it with headers and IMO it doesn't bring anything to the table for helping scalvaging the pressure out of the motor. They just enclose the motor and give blowby or internal pressure a controled exit from the motor. High pressure motors like prostock, It may have helped but Our Hemi car it only causes a spinout with oil getting on the back tires. Bottom of the car got soaked. Here's my thought on this and could be wrong but this is what I found. For max HP and torque you need back pressure to help the motor. The idea number used to be about +1-+2 pounds of pressure at WOT. Size of exhaust pipes also is important. Too big, loss of power in motor, just the same as too small. Again this all depends on what the motor is built for, where the HP is wanted and what rpm range you are looking to run.
The small amount of oil that runs through the motor and is burnt is safer and better that to possiblity has this oil get under your car or tires. JMO. I do have a new set of these valves unpackages from 1983 in the junk pile.
I am happy with my system and have 16 years with it. The next motor is getting a vacuum pump and dry sump system. Again I build torque motors with limits of 6,200 rpm and not 7,000 rpm buzzers. Not the strongest or fastest but can hang around with some fast cars. Rick L. Ps the kit went from 29.90 to 41.50 in 30+ years.%/:o;)

Why would anyone want to go back to before the wheel was invented??? Millions of cars run the simple pcv , like Rick descibed earlier. The exhaust injection was a waste of time, did not nothing for performance or emissions, not to mention oil leaks that require Pike tanks etc.....?????????

I have a 428 FE and I use a PCV and a breather also.
I also installed a cast polished aluminum breather on the back of the intake.
No problems

Don