Brad Penn 20/50 in a 428CJ OK???
 

I've got a new case of it on the floor of my garage for my 85 911...Any harm using it for the summer in my 3700 mile 428 Cobra Jet with Dove aluminum heads?

My car is an 2006 ERA 427 with remote oil cooler

I run it in my 521 stroker. That or Valvoline VR1 in 20-50. I also throw in 4 oz of Lucas Oil Assembly lube.

I run it in my 496 FE

E

yep use it......but i'm biased.......we're a distributor..:rolleyes:

10/30 or 10/40 for a street motor

Let the motor high idle
 

fdjake The oil is fine. Just make sure you let the motor warm up the coolant and oil before going down the road. Try and avoid any long idling of the motor. Use a lucas oil suppliment and pour this in when motor oil is warm and motor running. Over fill the motor 1 quart for those fun minutes in the turns. Rick L.

There is no doubt in my mind that if there were a 30W-60 oil available many Cobra owners would just have to use it. No doubt with a pint of STP added.

Remember, thicker is not always better and too much can be disastrous.

Bob

Hey Rick ! :3DSMILE:

" Try and avoid any long idling of the motor. Use a lucas oil suppliment and pour this in when motor oil is warm and motor running"

Can you explain why ?

This should be standard operating procedure for any high performance engine as well as your daily driver!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

David

Of course. But I meant the,...."Use a lucas oil supplement and pour this in when motor oil is warm and motor running".

I've never used a supplement.

The ony time I used a supplement was on my high (as in 300,000+ miles) mileage company car.....not even sure it did any good,I'd put a bottle of STP in with the oil change.....other than that, never used a supplement either......

David

I don't want to take over this thread, but like you, I wonder if any,....work at all ?

You might check with the builder if you know who it is.

KC told me to run 20/50 in the engine, so that is what I run.

E

According to the people that make and sell the stuff, it does!!!!!!!!!!:LOL:;):)

I have an uncle that is a retired chemical engineer,back in the 70s/80s, the company he worked for did testing of various oil additive products...he said for the most part,back then,the stuff does not much more than thicken the oil....I do remember they tested STP and another brand of oil additive that I can not remember the name.....
According to their testing,he said as the oil cools down when you shut the engine off, it thickens the oil and makes it "clingy",so it does cling to the metal parts better helping reduce a dry start-up the next time you start the engine,he said that's about the only thing good they could find........whether it is worth the time and money to use it, is up for debate, another day.......

He also said if these oil additive products were that good, the manufacter of the engine (Ford/Chevy/etc.) would recommend them.....how many do????

David

Here's what I know from testing
 

Funfer2 Kevin if you pour the lucas into a cold motor, it doesn't mix well in the oil pan and with the rest of the oil. It also needs to be poured slow. I found that you got the lucas oil laying in the bottom of the pan and on 1 startup with another motor I blew the oil filter off the housing. Oil pump doesn't know what weight the oil is, just pump it. Guessing 150-160 psi.
Does Lucas make the oil heavier, yes. Here's the thing, this has been writen about for the last 50+ years, DRY STARTS cause between 80-85% of engine wear. I have 3 cars and trucks with over 100K. All start quiet, no bottom end rod noise, no piston slapping, no rocker noise. I have let these cars and trucks sit for months and start them without noise. I drive them hard and haul with them also near limit loads. This is why a go with a clinging oil.
GM does recomend adding their oil suppliment if the car or truck is going to be used under hard conditions. It's called EOS. I use this when building evry motor at home or work. A am sure that Ford and Dodge also have a similar oil suppliment. The jury is still out on this new dexos oil that is thiner than water and has no or little cleaning ability in a motor. We have a timing chain issue and have seen motor with under 30K look like motor with 1/2 million miles on them. IMO the new oil stinks!!!. More trouble to come on this front. This is the ONLY country cleaning up after itself.Mean while the other super power is poluting at a world record pace. I like to thank Ford for building a new assembly plant in China when we have 4-5 million AMERICANS out of work.
Kevin I know 7 years of 98% racing in the 452 and 6 years with the 482, there was nothing wrong with the bearings on either bottom end. Clearance has alot to do with this and so does maintainance. Limited rpm doesn't hurt either. Last note, GM, FORD, JEEP, and all the others don't want you to use these products to extend the life of a car or truck because, THEY WANT TO KEEP SELL NEW PRODUCTS!!!! I work on 2 cars and 1 truck with all over 250,000 miles on orginial bottom ends. All have new timing gears and chains, that's all. Heads, valves all original. They supply their own oil and buy a filter. The cars will rot away before the motors will go bad. The truck guy uses lucas and hauls used cars on a gooseneck trailer. It's not a diesel, 8.1 L BBC. Bottom line run it, don't run it, choice is yours. Just think if a accusump was on everycar to peroil a motor before startup, you are looking at a 1 million mile motor.%/ We would still be driving 65 thunderbolts with oem motors, if the aluminum doesn't get to brittle and start cracking. Rick L. Ps I left out the stuff that C.S. used to sell, Z- MAX.

Thanks Rick, you're always a wealth of knowledge.

I too have had several engines go over 200,000 miles, I think mainly because of my good maintenance. And that's with no,....additives.

"THEY WANT TO KEEP SELL NEW PRODUCTS!!!!"

You're correct. I feel the same with rust on bodies. There's no doubt they do the same with all the parts on vehicles, otherwise there would not be any need for the OEM or aftermarket replacement parts and put a lot of people out of business, including me !

I'm a firm believer in Lucas products. I own a 1996 Peterbilt that I use to transport exotic and classic cars. As I look at the odometer it shows 1,539,305. I have overhauled the engine at 966,000. At every oil change one gallon of Lucas went in. It's a ten gallon sump. Upon teardown we could find nothing oil related showing excessive wear. I had lost a head gasket and figured with that mileage it would be cost effective to go through the engine. Over a half a million miles later there is no excessive oil consumption. My diesel guru balanced and blueprinted the engine, put a custom turbo on (50 pounds boost) and a computer override that is adjustable for up to 800 horsepower. Torque is up around 2500 ft/lb. Hot rodding 15 liter diesels is almost as much fun as Fords. So when I change the oil in my Superformance about four ounces will go in. I run it in the truck's gearbox and two drive axles. I swear by it not at it.
Tom

I put the 4 oz size of Lucas Oil assembly lube in at every oil change. It not only makes the oil clingy for protection at start up but has a Zinc additive.

I used Brad Penn 20-50w with no problems. But after talking with Lee Holman, I now use Brad Penn 40w. However, I also have cast heads & block, not alum. The 40w is old school, no modern additives/syn. of any kind. :cool: