I gave and showed you the serious answer Lou. The humor was meant to show you you're overthinking your needs. Was not ridicule. It's humor with thought behind it-which escaped you.
From your post #8:
"(I know I will be roasted by this but...I can take the heat---no pun intended)"

Well if that's true, lighten-up and realize that you've been shown an effective way to solve your problem, and economically as well. Strange way to say 'Thank you for a viable solution and posting a picture'.
If you want a serious fix, work on it. If you want a T-pan to wow them in the parking lot like the other posers, ignore with all haste. Whining won't fix anything.

It's not side entertainment pal-it's a well thought out and fabricated fix to a problem-that's been functioning for decades. Don't diminish serious help as idle banter.

Haha...


Some of it - Yes. For that, I thank you!


However other parts, not so much, but alas I thank you again. It gets a laugh out of me every time... :)

Either way, its worth the price of admission :3DSMILE:
...and apologies I find you both so entertaining :LOL:

I understand that a joke is a joke but when someone is trying to fix a very frustrating problem somtimes the jokes should come to an end. I appreciate those who gave me what they thought was serious suggestions but... lets leave there.
Basque1(Lou)

Lou, just tune that goofball Chas out -- RodKnock too. If I had a nickel for every time they pissed over a serious thread..., ahh nevermind. Seriously, if you're having heat soak problems, whether they be in in the lines themselves or in the carb, having your fans run a little longer when you shut the car down will make a big difference. Do you have your fans on a thermo switch? If so, where is the switch and what's the triggering temp? Do you have a fan override switch? What you might try as an experiment is to run your car in a fashion that usually creates the problem, shut it down, and when the fans automatically turn themselves off throw your override switch and run the fans for three minutes longer. Then see if you still have your heat soak problems. If that does the trick then there are easy ways to make your heat soak problem go away. Unfortunately, those tricks will not work on Chas.:CRY:

OK I'm done here. Lou-don't fear- I will never sully your posts again with an attempt to help you. In doing so, I apparently offended your sensibilities-probably because you can't comprehend the analogy I used. It was clear common sense but you couldn't see past what you didn't understand.
Are you related to a guy named 'Rsimoes'?
Unlike about 14,000 other members, I did post a serious attempt to help you and a photo too. You still don't get that. Won't happen again.
Counselor-your version of good cop / bad cop? First you scam the guy, then you 'help' him. As Bogie once said, "You're good."
Resume holding hands.

Chas knows his stuff, surely listen to him.

But I do agree with Patrick that you should definitely tune me out. I really have nothing to offer this forum other than my good looks and personality. :)

Slide show for Backdraft 874
 

Slide Show for album :: Backdraft #874

I think there are 126 photos. I have been trying to make a PowerPoint show and show you just the turkey pan. I believe photo #111 is first one of turkey pan.

This is sorta like seeing your neighbor's home movies, but it is in there, near the end 111-120 or so.
Try pages 6 and 7.

Russell

It looks quite nice.

http://www.vintage-motorsports.com/a.../afb.sized.jpg

Basquel, rather than spend money via Summit. I wen't to local hardware store & bought (1) A 2' piece of 3" galv. dryer vent (2) 0ne 8' piece of 3" flex(sprial expanding type) alum. dryer vent line. (3) One 50' roll of 2" wide quality alum. sheet metal (basicly heavy guage alum foil with adheavsive on 1 side) sealing tape. (4) Two 45 degree 3" dia sheet metal tee's (5) Eight 3" S.S. pipe clamps. I then cut/fit the strait 3" vent pieces to the desired locations on the turkey pan. One for each side, I secured the vent pipe to the T-pan via the alum. seal tape. I then installed the 45 degree tee's into the 3" fresh air vent lines. Then; cut, fit & installed the 3" flex vent between the tee's & the pan openings. As to the foam sealer between the pan & the hood. I cut/fabracated a 1"W x 1/8" thick piece of alum plate to bolt to the top lip of the t-pan. This way I can change/remove the foam stripping from the pan any time I wish. As the tape has a very high shine factor. The overall job came out looking the balls! :3DSMILE: I did all this while the t-pan was still mounted on the engine. It took about 4 hours. I would suggest that you have some good quality sheet metal tin( L,R, & S cut) snips. a hand held sheet metal flange srinker. they look like tin snips but create the wrinkled flange end needed to fit on flex/strait vent pipe. & other assorted tools. Also, insure no metal shavings go where they don't :eek: belong! I hope this helps M8! Enjoy! :D Oh yeah, I spent about $40 bucks on materials.

Thanks for getting a single shot from the 126 slide show. Obviously, you have superior computer skills. Way better than mine.

Thanks for getting a single photo from the slide show.

Thank goodness, no perculation problems in Arkansas. We have plenty of clothes pins just in case!

Russell

Turkey pan on 427 Roush small block
 

Thanks for this interesting forum.

This is just plan false! ...and a lie!
You offer this forum more than just "good looks and personality" :p

... not to mention his seemingly unending cash reserves.:cool:

Lou, one last point. When I start my car after it has been sitting cold for a week or two, I pump the throttle twice, turn the key, and she starts just like a bomb going off. BUT, and this is a BIG BUT, if the car has been driven at all that day, and I touch the throttle, the car will not start. What I have to remember to do is just turn the key, and not touch the throttle -- and she starts every time. Unfortunately, about once a summer I forget and hop behind the wheel of a hot car and pump the throttle. When I do, I now don't even bother turning the key. I just get out, go back in to the oyster bar, and give it a while.:cool: Chances are you knew this tip, but I thought I'd pass it along anyway. And if Chas writes any comments to this post, just ignore them.;)

Patrick:
I already sifted out the serious and the jokes and I realized who is saying what. :rolleyes:

I am intalling an electric gas pump which will have an in line oil cooler adapted to cool the gas. I addition I will increase the diameter of the air filter with a flow through KN air filter. I already installed the phenolic spacer and hopefully I can leave the turkey pan on.
If it persist with the percolation, then the Turkey pan comes off. The fans in my car kick on @ 200 degrees I can leave them on until they temp goes down that's not a problem.

I will also install throught the front vents two cooling hoses with inhose mini fans to add more cool air to the engine bay. I have realized that there are some quirks that these cars have that we need to live with them or buy a Corvette(thar's not going to happen) :rolleyes:
Thanks for your advise, take care.
Lou

Patrickt,

Where did you get the K&N top portion of your air cleaner in this picture? I've looked for these without success. Thanks!

Mike

Strike that. I just found it! K&N Air Cleaner Top

I think the grille splitter was only on street cars. RUMOR has it that the air was deflected up to create downforce, but it doesn't look like it would help much on that.

The splitters are probably supposed to divert airflow under the hood.

This guy has an adjustable and a fixed version.
Dark Water Customs | Shopping Cart
I would like one myself; his brackets are not made for Backdraft roadsters. They look like they could be adapted to just about any grille opening.

The air deflection might solve the percolation problem and set off your car's appearance, too.
Good luck.
Russell